Question about 2000 Harley Davidson FLHR-FLHRI Road king

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02 FLHRCI 95 kit, andrews cams, adj. pushrods, new lifters, drag pipes. Bike runs good when cold but after approx. 30 min. it starts missing on occasion. As long as I am asking for more fuel, it seems to smooth out. Only does this after bike is hot. Coil? Injectors, elect short? had bike on dyno and air fuel mixture is perfect.

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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 48,530 Answers

Hi Okie41, and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition or leaking.
3. Spark plug gap to close or to wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module and or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Damaged wire or loose connections at battery terminals especially the negative cable at "BOTH" ends, ignition coil, or plug between ignition sensor and module.
7. Intermittent short circuit due to damaged wire insulation.
8. Water or dirt in fuel system, carburetor or filter.
9. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
10. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
11. Damaged carburetor or intake seals.
12. Loose or dirty ignition module connector at crankcase.
13. Faulty MAP, CKP, and or CMP sensors.
14. Incorrect valve timing.
15. Weak or broken valve springs.
16. Damage intake or exhaust valve.
For a prime suspect please visit website below.
Good luck and have nice day.
Big Twin Carb EFI DTC Intructions codes Harley Davidson Forums Harley...

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Posted on Jun 21, 2015

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi there,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Bike running rough 96 Wide Glide

check plugs and wires, also coil my be weak, sometimes a bad ground will cause this also and weak battery. I've had these problems before on my older Harleys that I built

Posted on Jan 16, 2009

OneRide
  • 379 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 road king engine heat

I don't see how oil can cause an overheating problem. I think the service tech was screwing with the fuel/ignition map when the bike was on the dyno. Is it a F.I. engine? Lean mixture or retarded/over advanced timing will cause this, among other things. The dealer may have to eat the cost of repair if you can prove they caused the problem. An air cooled engine that overheats is gonna self destruct!! Get it checked out NOW.

Posted on May 02, 2009

roadrunning1
  • 152 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 roadking flhrci starves for gas

Hi there , ok, sounds like your tank is not breathing properly, Check that the petrol cap seal is sealing properly , check your fuel valve and hoses and make sure they are not touching the motor anywhere, most bike operate better with the tank in not in a vacuum so make sure that the breather holes underneath are not blocked , the reason why this phenomena happens is because when the tank is full , the shear weight of the fuel forces it to come out in abundantly which satisfies its request for fuel when you nail it, once the weight is lowered so is the pressure and the fuel has no air to replace itself because the breathers are not sucking in enough air to allow the fuel to flow .

Posted on May 11, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: High Idle On Start-up.

Most fuel injected motorcycles do start up in a "fast idle" mode. Although I don't know much about fuel injection on Harleys (H-D will not tell you much about it unles you are one of their technicians), I don't think the system is equipped with an engine temp sensor. Since the crank case sensor get it's pulses from pockets cut into the outer edge of the left side flywheel half, the sensor will have oil on it.

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

v2iper
  • 150 Answers

SOURCE: High idle on start-up

Its your idle senser sits on top of the manifold u will see it looking at u when u take off air filter cover. Little black plastic.plug in.

Posted on Dec 20, 2009

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Noisy geared cam on my 2001 ultra clasic harley


Hi John, I'm sorry but I just loaned my listening ears to the lead technician at your local Harley Dealer so he could take your bike for a test ride and evaluate the noise. Good luck and have a nice day.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

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How hard is it to install lifters in a 1982 FXB??


It's not difficult at all to install lifters in a Shovelhead. Just take the pushrods out, lift the hydraulic units out, and take the tappet blocks up. Sometimes, if the valve seats and valves are badly worn, the pushrods can be tough to get out as they won't adjust short enough. You'll have to pry them out with a small screwdriver. You'll have to readjust the pushrods once you get the new tappets installed. The question is, why are you installing new tappets? If you have a bad tappet, it's probably ruined the cam as well. If a roller locks up it will gall the cam lobe that it runs on which means the cam will have to be replaced as well.

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What is e most common cause to an engine knock on a 02 Harley davidson road king with 50000 miles bike still runs great no check engine lights are on and knock follows the rpm level


I'm sorry, but I don't know a lot about the Twin Cam engines but they are not that much different from the Evolution engines. One of the weak points in any Harley engine is the rollers on the ends of the tappets. The small needle bearing goes bad and it starts to knock. It will eventually lock up and ruin the camshaft that it's riding on. In your case there are two cams and it will ruin the one it's on. With 50K on the engine, that would be my guess as the I've seen the bottom ends of Evo engines still tight after 70K miles. I could also be one of the chain tensioners in the cam chest but usually people describe that noise as a whining type noise. If you still have the original pushrods in your engine, you will have to remove the rocker box covers to get the tappet blocks out.

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If you dd not torque the front sprocket down correctly you could have an issue. If this is a new noise then be concerned, if this has progressed over time, then it is more than likely just the bike loosening up. Which is normal...but loud, could this be pre-detonation, did you make the correct adjustments to your MAP? Check you push rod adjustment with the bike cold, I mean Artic overnight not running cold.

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Valves tapping and bike is running rough


No there is a cover that slides up on the pushrod tube. Cut a tube in half lengthwise, and you'll have the shape. It's held in place by spring action. (Lift up)

After you remove it, mark the pushrod threads where the adjustment lock nut is. You'll have a ballpark place to refer back to then.
Loosen the adjustment lock nut, turn the adjustment until the pushrod is small enough to tilt to one side, and remove.

Mark each pushrod for where it/they came from. (That is, place them in a holder of some sort, and identify where each one came from, on the holder. I use a square piece of wood with holes drilled in it. Front head- Intake. Front head- Exhaust. Rear head- Intake, and so on)

You'll have new lifter/s, but each rocker arm will be worn to THAT particular pushrod. This is why it's best to keep them in order.

Next is removing the four small bolts that hold the lifter block in place. (Square block that two lifters will be in) There is a gasket under the block, so it may not just lift right up. You may have to use gentle persuasion.
(GENTLE! That wasn't a joke. Don't mar the aluminum case that the lifter block goes into! You'll have an instant oil leak from now on)

Be sure to put some prelube made for this, on the lifters round body, and on the roller on the lifter. A tiny little dab in the center of the lifter where the pushrod sits, doesn't hurt either.
1.New gasket for the lifter block.
2.New pushrod tube seals
Don't replace these, and you'll have spots all over your driveway. (Replace even if the pushrod tube seals look good)

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1 Answer

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This can be a big zero on the fun scale, so get ready. First place your bike on a lift (borrowed or owned, just get one) with rear wheel off the ground. Now remove your air cleaner and maybe your filter. Now drop the pushrood tubes one at a time, not all at once (pick a jug only one). With the bike in gear and holding the pushrod tube up so you can see the bottom part of the push rod, rotate engine until you are on flat side of the cam. You'll know when the push rod is as low as it can be and the wheel moves a little and the push rod doesn't. Your push rods have a jam nut on them and the pushrod is not round in places you must loosen the jam nut and then holding both pieces of the pushrod you can screw the lower end of the push rod into the other piece. This will shorten the push rod. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DROP THE JAM NUT. If you do you will be cussin for a month! Now you can shorten the push rod enough to get it out. Work only one cylinder at a time and yes note which push rod goes where as most HD ones have different diameter ends.
Soak you lifters in oil overnight, not for most of the morning or a few hours, but overnight. Once you get both push rods out use your fingers, a small pick, or what ever to pull the lifters out. Replace the lifters, O rings for push rod tubes, put the tubes over the push rod and looking at the lifters make absolutely sure they are in the lowest position they can be, adjust you push rods. If they are HD Screamin Eagle ones you extent the push rods to what we call zero lash, that is until they make firm contact with the lifter but are not compressing the lifter. this is just something you gotta do to figure out how. Then once you have zero lash HD sez unscrew or lengthen the push rod by holding the top piece with a wrench and unscrewing the bottom piece 3 and one half turns, then lock it up with the jam nut. Put push rod tubes together move to the next cyclinder.
IMPORTANT THINGS TO MAKE SURE YOU DO:
Work on a completely COLD bike!!
Soak lifters over night
Use new O rings
Adjust push rods absolutely at zero lash + 3.5 turns (if HD) when lifter is lowest in bore.

This is a painful process cause after things get a few hours on them you WILL want to go back in and readjust. I am truely sorry this is such a pain. I hope this helps and good luck,

JP

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As long as they are adjustable it's not too bad. Remember to change pushrods one at a time. First you have to pull the upper chrome covers off. These have a little (kind of) handle. They are halfed, but they look one piece. Pull down & out. 1: Once chrome covers are off, turn motor slightly until the valve your working on is closed & lifter is on lowest part of base circle on cam at BTC. in other words, while turning motor slightly in BOTH directions, lifter should be all the way down, and stay down. this assures that your not on or near the up ramp of the cam lobe. 2: Then you can remove pushrod by loosening lash adjustment (on bottom) until pushrod comes out. 3: Put new pushrod through partial chrome tube exactly as removed from old pushrod. 4: Set valve lash or pre-load, and then, one at a time, repeat procedure from step 1.

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