Question about 2000 Harley Davidson FLHR-FLHRI Road king

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02 FLHRCI 95 kit, andrews cams, adj. pushrods, new lifters, drag pipes. Bike runs good when cold but after approx. 30 min. it starts missing on occasion. As long as I am asking for more fuel, it seems to smooth out. Only does this after bike is hot. Coil? Injectors, elect short? had bike on dyno and air fuel mixture is perfect.

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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 48,530 Answers

Hi Okie41, and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition or leaking.
3. Spark plug gap to close or to wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module and or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Damaged wire or loose connections at battery terminals especially the negative cable at "BOTH" ends, ignition coil, or plug between ignition sensor and module.
7. Intermittent short circuit due to damaged wire insulation.
8. Water or dirt in fuel system, carburetor or filter.
9. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
10. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
11. Damaged carburetor or intake seals.
12. Loose or dirty ignition module connector at crankcase.
13. Faulty MAP, CKP, and or CMP sensors.
14. Incorrect valve timing.
15. Weak or broken valve springs.
16. Damage intake or exhaust valve.
For a prime suspect please visit website below.
Good luck and have nice day.
Big Twin Carb EFI DTC Intructions codes Harley Davidson Forums Harley...

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at

Posted on Jun 21, 2015


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi there,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Bike running rough 96 Wide Glide

check plugs and wires, also coil my be weak, sometimes a bad ground will cause this also and weak battery. I've had these problems before on my older Harleys that I built

Posted on Jan 16, 2009

  • 379 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 road king engine heat

I don't see how oil can cause an overheating problem. I think the service tech was screwing with the fuel/ignition map when the bike was on the dyno. Is it a F.I. engine? Lean mixture or retarded/over advanced timing will cause this, among other things. The dealer may have to eat the cost of repair if you can prove they caused the problem. An air cooled engine that overheats is gonna self destruct!! Get it checked out NOW.

Posted on May 02, 2009

  • 152 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 roadking flhrci starves for gas

Hi there , ok, sounds like your tank is not breathing properly, Check that the petrol cap seal is sealing properly , check your fuel valve and hoses and make sure they are not touching the motor anywhere, most bike operate better with the tank in not in a vacuum so make sure that the breather holes underneath are not blocked , the reason why this phenomena happens is because when the tank is full , the shear weight of the fuel forces it to come out in abundantly which satisfies its request for fuel when you nail it, once the weight is lowered so is the pressure and the fuel has no air to replace itself because the breathers are not sucking in enough air to allow the fuel to flow .

Posted on May 11, 2009

  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: High Idle On Start-up.

Most fuel injected motorcycles do start up in a "fast idle" mode. Although I don't know much about fuel injection on Harleys (H-D will not tell you much about it unles you are one of their technicians), I don't think the system is equipped with an engine temp sensor. Since the crank case sensor get it's pulses from pockets cut into the outer edge of the left side flywheel half, the sensor will have oil on it.

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

  • 150 Answers

SOURCE: High idle on start-up

Its your idle senser sits on top of the manifold u will see it looking at u when u take off air filter cover. Little black plastic.plug in.

Posted on Dec 20, 2009

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Noisy geared cam on my 2001 ultra clasic harley

Hi John, I'm sorry but I just loaned my listening ears to the lead technician at your local Harley Dealer so he could take your bike for a test ride and evaluate the noise. Good luck and have a nice day.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at

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Valves tapping and bike is running rough

No there is a cover that slides up on the pushrod tube. Cut a tube in half lengthwise, and you'll have the shape. It's held in place by spring action. (Lift up)

After you remove it, mark the pushrod threads where the adjustment lock nut is. You'll have a ballpark place to refer back to then.
Loosen the adjustment lock nut, turn the adjustment until the pushrod is small enough to tilt to one side, and remove.

Mark each pushrod for where it/they came from. (That is, place them in a holder of some sort, and identify where each one came from, on the holder. I use a square piece of wood with holes drilled in it. Front head- Intake. Front head- Exhaust. Rear head- Intake, and so on)

You'll have new lifter/s, but each rocker arm will be worn to THAT particular pushrod. This is why it's best to keep them in order.

Next is removing the four small bolts that hold the lifter block in place. (Square block that two lifters will be in) There is a gasket under the block, so it may not just lift right up. You may have to use gentle persuasion.
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Be sure to put some prelube made for this, on the lifters round body, and on the roller on the lifter. A tiny little dab in the center of the lifter where the pushrod sits, doesn't hurt either.
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