Just changed valve shims and need toknow how to set timing

will need a micrometer, valve clearance adjustment tool set for shimmed lifters,small magnetic arm, appropriate shim selecting charts (manufacturer will have this if you can get the nec. measurements).
Measure thickness of shims removed (using micrometer) and use this formula where T=Thickness of old shim; A=Valve clearance measured; N=Thickness of new shim required.
Intake valves: N = T + (A - 0.02 mm (0.008 in.)) Exh. valves: N = T + (A - 0.25 mm (0.010 in.))
Then you need to find shims as close as possible to the calculated values.
Valve clearances (cold) are as follows: Intake0.15 - 0.25 mm (0.006 - 0.010 in.) Exhaust0.20 - 0.30 mm (0.008 - 0.012 in.)
Note, if you are not familiar with precision measuring using a micrometer, this may be better left to a trained tech. These are high revving little power plants and you don't want a problem at 8K rpm.

The Venture uses a shim over bucket design. The clearance between the cam lobe and shim is measured and if out of specification, a shim of different thickness neeeds to be installed in place of the previous one. The shim change operation requires a special tool which sits on the hex portion of the camshaft and depresses 2 valve buckets at a time. This produces a gap to allow the shim to be removed and another of different thickness installed.
Sometimes the clearances will be fine and no shim changes required. A shim kit is handy as it has a variety of thicknesses so the job can be completed quickly, otherwise the shims need to be purchased from a dealer, possibly waiting for the order.

HI, FIRSTLY ARE YOU SURE IT IS THE SHIMS AND NOT THE CAM CHAIN? THE SHIMS ON YOUR BIKE CANOT BE RESET AS SUCH, HOWEVER YOU CAN REDUCE THE RATTLING BY CHANGING THE SHIMS, THE PROCEDURE IS TO MEASURE ALL THE INLET AND ALL THE EXHAUST VALVE CLEARANCES, MAKNING A NOTE OF EACH GAP BETWEEN SHIM AND CAMSHAFT LOBE WHEN IN THE CORRECT POSITION FOR EACH VALVE, AFTER YOU HAVE MEASURED THE GAP YOU THEN NEED TO REMOVE THE SHIMS FROM THE VALVES THAT ARE OUT OF SPEC, 1 AT A TIME, SOME SHIMS HAVE THE MEASURMENT STAMPED ON THEM, OTHERS YOU HAVE TO MEASURE WITH A MICROMITER OR VERNIER CALIPERS, YOU MAY THEN CHANGE THE SHIM AS REQUIRED DEPENDING ON WHETHER YOU NEED TO REDUCE THE GAP OR INCREASE THE GAP. IT MAY BE THAT A SHIM REMOVED FROM 1 VALVE WILL BE A GOOD REPLACMENT FOR ANOTHER VALVE, GET YOURSELF A HAYNS MANUAL IT SHOWS YOU THE FULL PROCEDURE INC A CHART TELING YOU WHAT SHIM TO FIT FOR ACTUAL CLEARENCE,

Intake: .004-.006"
Exhaust: .006-.008"

There are no specific settings for shims. Each valve is a little different and the different thickness shims are used to get the clearance in spec. This also changes as the engine wears. If you need any, the shims will have to be purchased at the dealer.

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This engine utilizes shims to set proper clearances, you will need a micrometer, valve clearance adjustment tool set for shimmed lifters,small magnetic arm, appropriate shim selecting charts (manufacturer will have this if you can get the nec. measurements).
Measure thickness of shims removed (using micrometer) and use this formula where T=Thickness of old shim; A=Valve clearance measured; N=Thickness of new shim required.
Intake valves:   N = T + (A - 0.02 mm (0.008 in.)) Exh. valves:     N = T + (A - 0.25 mm (0.010 in.))
Then you need to find shims as close as possible to the calculated values.
Valve clearances (cold) are as follows: Intake 0.15 - 0.25 mm (0.006 - 0.010 in.) Exhaust 0.20 - 0.30 mm (0.008 - 0.012 in.)
Note, if you are not familiar with precision measuring using a micrometer, this may be better left to a trained tech. These are high revving little power plants and you don't want a problem at 8K rpm.

Chain drive. Unless the engine's been apart, why would the cam/valve timing change?
Valve clearances are another matter, and unless you want to remove the camshafts, get a mechanic who has the proper Suzuki tool to do them for you. You can measure the clearances, but the shims are between the cam lobe and the valve bucket, and the special tool holds the bucket down whilst changing to a thicker or thinner shim.

IF I recall correctly, the Kawasaki valves are adjusted by shims as opposed to a lock-down screw or hydraulic lifters. The shims come in different thicknesses. As the valve parts wear, a change in shims is how the valves are adjusted.

To adjust your valves you will need a few standard tools and most importantly a set of feeler gauges. You can buy these at any automotive store. The first step is removing the tank and valve cover to gain access to the valve train. You will see both the intake and exhaust cams plus the tops of the valves. This is where you will be measuring with the feeler gauge. The next thing would be to rotate the motor to top dead center. You will need to remove both inspection covers that are on the side of your ignition cover. This will give you access to the timing marks and to the bolt that allows you to turn the motor over.

Check in your manual as to what direction to turn the motor over. You do not want to turn the motor over in the wrong direction. Turn the motor over looking into the inspection (top) hole. You will notice a mark on the fly wheel. When you see this mark come around, look up at the cams. There should be two punch marks on the cam gears that line up with the gasket surface towards the outside of the head. At this point you should be at top dead center compression. Check the lobes of the cam, they should not be touching the valve buckets. If they are touching the valve buckets, this means that you are 180 degrees out of time. Rotate the motor 180 degrees and then start to measure.

After you measure the clearance between the cam lobe and the valve bucket, you will want to write that down. You will then need to check your numbers against the spec's provided in your service manual. If you are outside the specified range, you will need to remove your cams and replace the shims. There should be a chart in your manual that will help you to decide what shims you will need to bring you within the safe range. When dealing with the KXF250 or the RMZ 250, you want to make sure you use the correct shims. There are two types that will fit these bikes, but only one is the correct shim. Shims come both forged and sintered. They look the same until you put them under a magnifying glass, then the difference is very clear. The forged shims have a smooth surface, while the sintered shims have very small cavities. Using the sintered shims will prematurely wear the coating off of the valve stem. This will shorten valve life and cause the valves to go out of adjustment sooner.

Now, after replacing the shims, all that is left is to reassemble your machine. Pay closer attention to the instructions in your owners manual. Always double check your cam timing with what is recommended in the manual. Do not start your bike without turning the motor over by hand first. If you feel it is unusually hard to turn over or it will not turn over, you probably are off on your cam timing. Once again, do not try and start the bike. Go back and retime your cams.