I have a slack spot on my chain and i need to replace it, but the manual doesn't tell me what type of chain it uses, wether it is an x-ring or an o-ring. can anyone help?

No it doesn't need to be off the ground.

But, remember that when you are sitting on the bike and the suspension is compressed there is less slack in the chain, so don't tighten the chain too much. Tighten it until you have an inch and a half / 3-4cm of slack in the mid point of the chain between the front and rear sprockets.

The first step is to find the tightest part of the chain. Unless it's a brand new chain it will have a tight spot somewhere on it. It's easiest to do this with the bike on a race stand if you have it. Rotate the wheel and observe the lower part of the chain and watch it lift up when you hit tight spots. The spot where the chain lifts highest is the tightest part of the chain. Once you have found this spot, grab the chain on the low side under the swingarm and move it up and down. It should move up and down around 30-35mm or so, or an inch and a bit if you're an imperialist :) If the chain moves more or less than this then it needs to be adjusted.

To adjust the chain, you need to loosen the axle first. Don't take the nut off but it has to be loose enough to undo by hand. Using 2 spanners, unlock the lock nuts on the end of the swingarm and wind the nut in or out until you get the correct amount of chain slack. always do the sprocket side (left side) first, then repeat the same on the other side. Check the chain adjuster marks to make sure that the adjusters are equal on both sides, this will make sure your rear wheel is aligned properly.

Once you have adjusted the chain, tighten the rear axle and check again. The chain slack will change slightly after you tighten the axle, it might go tighter, it might go looser. Depends on the bike. But the chain slack must be correct with the axle tightened. A bit of practise here and you will be able to guess the correct amount before tightening the rear axle.

Once you have the slack set correctly and the axle is tight, make sure to tighten the adjusters. Tighten the front nut first against the swingarm plate so it can't move. Do it tight but not crazy tight. Then holding the first nut so it can't move tighten the locknut against the first nut. Repeat this on both sides.

If you are not quite sure if the chain is right, always err on the side of making it too loose rather than too tight. Running your chain too tight can destroy your output shaft bearing. It's only about $30 or so for a new one but your engine needs to be completely stripped down to replace it, it's not a fun job. I have seen a lot of FZs and FZRs have this problem because people ran chains too tight. If your chain really is too loose then it will start making your gear changes harder to do, that's the sign you need to tighten it.

If you installed the flapper using the ring. Remove it. If it is a rubber ring then cut the ring out and use the hinges on the sides to install. Other than that make sure your flapper chain is straight and not twisted and also that the chain is giving the flapper a reasonable slack. Hope this helps!

you need a new chain. the old chain has stretched in spots.

Well I guess the type and model of motorcycle would help.

However, most camchain tensioners are basically automatic. They bear against a long, curved nylon dampener that rides the slack (trailing) side of the chain. This pressure is made by a spring inside the chain tensioner housing itself and is not a serviceable part.

If housing is bolted up tight, all available tension is employed. If chain is still slack...camchain is worn out must be replaced.

Camshaft and rocker arm gaps maybe providing all the noise also, maybe time for a top end service, whatever the bike!!
Cheers.

Slacken the wheel nut a couple of turns ,then simply adjust tension with the chain adjusters at the rear of the swingarm legs. Look carefully you will see notches marked on both sides of the swingarm by the wheel spindle these must be the same on both sides, your manual will tell you the chain slack for your bike.probably about 25-35mm put a ruler up to the chain and using finger pressure push up on the chain ,this is the chain slack. Once done tighten the wheel nut up to correct torque setting.( manual or call local dealer),then replace split pin with new through the wheel nut. Double check all your work no loose nuts,then sit on the bike get a friend to wiggle the chain there should be small slack as first meashured 25-35mm again, if not re-try,once experienced you will do it first time.

Every 600 miles or 1000 km. Your motorcycle’s Owner’s Manual will have directions. You need to check the tension at several points along the chain’s travel around the engine and wheel sprockets. The tension should be set so that the loosest spot and the tightest spot are still within the slack tolerance specified in the owner’s manual. If the tightest spot is at the tightest allowed and the loosest is beyond the tolerance then it’s time to get a new chain and sprocket set. ,

BUT adjusted like that there's a tight spot with 0mm. The green new chain required gauge on swinging arm tells me there's plenty of life left in the O ring chain. I've done approx 7K miles and chain wasn't new when I got the bike about 15 months ago. The sprockets are not BADLY worn. I fitted a Scottoiler 7 or 8 hundred miles ago..........Do you folks think I need a new chain and sprockets? This tight spot has only very recently become evident - don't think I've damaged the chain but maybe I have. Think I'm talking myself into new chain here!..............Anyone got advice about cheap/good value UK suppliers? Could do the job myself I thinkIf the tight spot is bad enough you will need to replace. And you MUST do it as a set...chain and sprockets. It is a waste of money to just replace the chain because the worn sprockets will wear it out in no time. And do not cheap out on the chain. Make sure you get a good quality O or X- Ring chain. I know the popular thing to do with sprockets is to get Aluminum to save weight, but I'd get the steel. It may weigh more but it will last twice as long. Just re-read, if it is adjusted to spec and the tight spot has no freeplay, yeah, time to replace.,,,

Every 600 miles or 1000 km. Your motorcycle’s Owner’s Manual will have directions. You need to check the tension at several points along the chain’s travel around the engine and wheel sprockets. The tension should be set so that the loosest spot and the tightest spot are still within the slack tolerance specified in the owner’s manual. If the tightest spot is at the tightest allowed and the loosest is beyond the tolerance then it’s time to get a new chain and sprocket set. ,

Every 600 miles or 1000 km. Your motorcycle’s Owner’s Manual will have directions. You need to check the tension at several points along the chain’s travel around the engine and wheel sprockets. The tension should be set so that the loosest spot and the tightest spot are still within the slack tolerance specified in the owner’s manual. If the tightest spot is at the tightest allowed and the loosest is beyond the tolerance then it’s time to get a new chain and sprocket set. ,