What could be the causes of oil pumping from crankcase tube to carb b/s 14 hp... other than broken oil ring??

The fuel pump uses impulse air from the crankcase.

To check impulse air, leave the oil dip stick cap loose and resting freely on the fill tube. If cranking the engine causes the dipstick to move up/down then likely there's sufficient impulse air.

For the pump to operate, the tube from the pump to the crankcase cannot be cracked and must be secure at both ends. The oil fill cap must be in place with no gross leaks.

See attached pic for proper pump connections. Some pumps are different and can be confusing. The connection that is in a different plane (pump body) will be impulse input.

This tube is the crankcase vent tube and two possible things here #1 the engine is worn out and has a lot of compression gasses going past the piston rings into the crankcase.
#2 the engine oil in the crankcase is too full

if engine is not overfull you have bad rings on piston have to take in to have it done may end up short blocking it witch is cheaper to do replace rings cheaper by far 200.00 per cylinder

All Harleys will get a little oil in the breather.

However, when mileage causes the rings to wear, combustion pressure can leak past the rings, causing higher pressure.

You didn't state your mileage, but at 11 years old, your engine might be ready for a top end rebuild.

I'd quicker think piston ring blow by the piston thus compression leaking / blowing into the engines base.

If there is a check valve in the breather it may be stuck. However this is usually indicative of broken rings or burned pistons(piston) . Compression bypasses rings and pistons causing excess crankcase pressure and oil spillage.

Your crankcase vents into the carb air filter. This was required by the EPA. All crankcase vented pressure has to be cycled through the engine. So, If you'll look behind your air filter to the rear of the bike, you should see a pipe coming from just behind the oil pump up to the backside of the air filter. The air pressure exhausted from the crankcase has an oil mist in it. There are baffles in the pipe but sometimes during servicing, these baffles get left out. Still, even with the baffles, there is some oil mist that makes it's way to the air filter. This oil builds up over time and causes a drip out of the air filter. Regular cleaning of the air filter assembly reduces this.

If you're getting more than the usual amount of oil, your engine could be "oil sumping". This is where the oil in the oil tank seeps past the check ball valve in the oil pump and builds up in the bottom end of the engine. When you start the engine, the oil pump cannot pump it back to the tank fast enough and it's blown out the crankcase vent tube right into your air filter. You can "reseat" the check ball and may be able to get it to stop doing this.

Or, you could remove the crankcase vent tube going up to the air filter. Put a piece of tubing about six inches long on the nipple coming out of the engine case and plug the hole in the backside of the air filter backing plate. Then, the oil will directed onto the ground instead of into your air filter.

Good Luck
Steve

Without seeing the bike, I would guess that this is the crankcase vent. Originally, the crankcase vent tube came up from behind the oil pump and went to the backside of the air filter. A lot of owners changed the routing of this hose due to oil being blown into the air filter. They simply remove the metal part of the tube and replaced it with a short open ended hose running back and ending just forward of the rear tire.

As for the oil blowing out of the tube, it depends on how much oil blows out of the tube. If it's just a mist that will sometimes coalese into a droplet, this is about normal. But, if it's a steady drip or flowing oil, this is not right.

If the mist is heavy, this could be caused by excessive blowby on the rings creating high crankcase pressures. The use of synthetic oil should not increase the blowby unless the rings are in poor shape, then it will. The use of synthetic oil seems to aggrevate any minor leak turning it into a much larger leak.

If the oil is coming out in a steady stream or pumping the oil out of the engine, you proabably have sheared a key in the scavenge gears of the oil pump and it's not pumping the oil back into the oil tank.

Now there is a vent hose on the oil tank but it should be routed to a fitting on the crankcase that is located just above and slightly behind the top of the oil pump.

Good Luck
Steve

Section 03-01: Engine, 4.6L (4V) 1997 Continental Workshop Manual IN-VEHICLE SERVICE Oil Pan/Oil Pump Screen Cover and Tube Removal

1. Turn rear suspension leveler compressor switch (5K761) off (located in luggage compartment).
   

1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301). Refer to Section 14-01 .
   

1. Remove oil level dipstick (6750).
   

1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
   

1. Remove dual converter Y pipe (5F250). Refer to Section 09-00 .
   

1. Drain engine oil from crankcase.
   

1. Disconnect engine control sensor wiring (12A581) from the low oil level sensor connector.
   

1. Remove the power steering pressure hose retainer brackets from the engine front cover studs (two places). Position the power steering pressure hose (3A719) out of the way.
   

1. Remove 16 bolts retaining oil pan (6675) to cylinder blocks (6010) and remove oil pan and oil pan gasket (6710).
   

1. Remove two bolts retaining oil pump screen cover and tube (6622) to oil pump (6600).
   

1. Remove bolt retaining oil pump screen and cover and tube support brace to main bearing stud spacer.
   

1. Remove oil pump screen cover and tube. Discard O-ring.
   
   

Item Part Number Description 1 W701240 Bolt (16 Req'd) 2 6675 Oil Pan 3 6622 Oil Pump Screen Cover and Tube 4 6010 Cylinder Blocks 5 6710 Oil Pan Gasket A — Tighten to 20 Nm (14 Lb-Ft), then rotate 60 degrees clockwise

Installation

1. Inspect oil pump screen cover and tube and replace if necessary.
   
1. Position oil pump screen cover and tube on oil pump with a new O-ring and hand-start two bolts.
   
1. Install bolt retaining oil pump screen cover and tube to main bearing stud spacer finger-tight.
   
1. Tighten oil pump screen cover and tube-to-oil pump bolts to 8-12 Nm (71-106 lb-in). Tighten oil pump screen cover and tube to main bearing stud spacer bolt to 20-30 Nm (15-22 lb-ft).
   
1. Clean oil pan and inspect for damage.
   
1. Clean sealing surfaces of engine front cover (6019) and cylinder blocks with a clean cloth. If scraping is required, only use plastic-tipped scrapers to prevent damaging the aluminum sealing surfaces.
   
1. Position new oil pan gasket on oil pan.
   
1. Apply Silicone Gasket and Sealant F6AZ-19562-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M4G323-A6 where engine front cover meets cylinder blocks and crankshaft rear oil seal retainer meets cylinder blocks. Position oil pan on cylinder blocks and install 16 bolts. Tighten bolts in sequence to 20 Nm (14 lb-ft), then rotate an additional 60 degrees clockwise.
   
   

You either have a head gasket going bad or your piston rings are shot which causes air to go down into the crankcase building up pressure which exits through the breather tube.