2008 vrod vrscdx Dead battery replaced battery does not apear to be charging less then 13 volts showing with voltmeter at the battery with full charge and engine running Looking for wiring specs to diagnose charging sys.can you help?
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faulty voltmeter and /or bad batteries
have the batteries load tested to eliminate them then replace the voltmeter
in reality it should be showing a reduction in volts available as the batteries run down form use
as an example
fully charged batteries 12 or 13 volts
go for a trip around the block and as you go the meter should start reading a lesser voltage as you are going or a reduced voltage at each stop
So you had the battery tested? Possibly the alternator or charging system is not up to par? Before you assume there is a drain, first make sure both battery and charging system are working good.
Best to buy a cheap voltmeter (or multifunction meter) to do any testing. Put a voltmeter on the battery, with key off, volt reading should be at least 12.4 volts-any less, like below 12 volts, then battery is not taking full charge OR the charging system is at fault. Now start the car and put voltmeter on the battery again: the reading should be at least 13.5 volts- somewhere between 13.5 and 14.5 volts. If it is, then charging system is good. If both battery and charging system check out, then you start looking for an unintended drain. YouTube has lots of videos on how to find an unintended drain.
Maybe it wasn't running long enough to charge up the battery? Stop trying to jump it, when you are having problems with it dying, take the battery off and have it charged. And/or buy a $20 voltmeter to see what the battery shows. If it says less than 12 volts, it is discharged, and needs charging. A good battery that is not run down should have at least 12.5 volts. A new battery that is charged should have very close to 13 volts, maybe 12.8 volts. When you have the truck running, check the alternator for charging. You put the voltmeter right on the battery and check it again. This time, with truck running, battery should show at least 13.5 volts. That shows the alternator is working. A good alternator will put out about 13 or 14 volts-the regulator will keep it from going any higher to prevent problems, like a melting battery or electrical parts burning out. I would say get the charging system working right, then address the problem of dying at stop lights. That could be a carburetor problem, if the alternator is working.
Hi, Anonymous the best way to charge a battery is slowly. I like to use this analogy, would you rather be awakened from a deep sleep with gentle nudging or a violent kick in the rear.
1. Remove battery and check for corroded or damaged terminals clean any dirt, corrosion or electrolyte that is on top of the battery as this will cause premature battery drain, inspect for cracks and swollen/expanded sides which are a sign of overheating and replacement should be seriously considered.
2. Acid plate type batteries should be checked with a hydrometer with recorded readings for each cell to be compared with after charging readings and for sulfation, the cell will appear milky, and incorrect acid level. Fill low levels with distilled water to upper level and remove acid from over filled cells with hydrometer until the level is at the upper mark and dispose of acid in the sink mixed with a quart/liter of water.
3. Connect a voltmeter set on the DC scale to the battery and record the reading for comparison after charging.
4. Attach a drain hose that is not pinched, kinked, or plugged to the nipple on acid plate type batteries and let the other end hang into a plastic or styrofoam cup.
5. Connect a 1-2 amp trickle charger that has automatic charge rate reduction if possible and let charge for 24 hours.
6. After charging recheck each cell with a hydrometer a 100% fully charged cell will have a specific gravity reading of 1.270-1.280 and 1.180-1.190 has only a 25% charge battery should be load tested and considered for replacement if necessary. Reconnect your voltmeter and
any readings in the 10-volt range means you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced. Readings between any 2 cells of 50 points or more indicate the battery has failed and needs to be replaced.
7. No maintenance AGM or GEL batteries need to have a voltmeter reading of 12.8-13 volts for a full 100% charge and 12.2 volts is only a 25% charge and should be load tested and replaced if necessary.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Replacement battery which one yamaha battery tender Yamaha XV19SW Service Manual OEM parts for Yamaha Yamaha ROADLINER XV19SW Owner Manual
As long as the alternator seems fine, I wouldn't worry about it. The problem will probably go away after awhile...HA HA, THIS IS A JOKE, from your statement that alternator seems fine. No rudeness or judgemental attitude intended. Do you have a friend or know someone who has a voltmeter? It would take two minutes to put a voltmeter on the battery while the car is running, and it would tell you if the alternator is working as it should. If the voltmeter says over 13 volts (typically about 13.5 volts, up to 14.5 volts) then the alternator is good, and the problem likely is poor, corroded, or loose battery connections, or the battery may be too old to take a full charge, or may have a dead cell. If the voltmeter says less than 13 volts (when car is running), then the alternator belt may be too loose, or you may have a loose connection on the alternator, or there may be a blown alternator fuse in the power distribution center near the battery, or the alternator is just too weak or malfunctioning and needs replacing. Good luck, harlock6, I hope you find the problem. You can buy a perfectly good voltmeter just about anywhere for less than $20. Even the older analog type (with the sweep needle) would work for testing your alternator enough to know if it's working or not. More thorough tests of the alternator's actual amperage output could be performed (like a load test) with more expensive testing equipment, but you just need a voltmeter to check if the alternator is working or not.
have to test battery to see if its getting voltage from alternator. put voltmeter on battery while car is running give it a little gas 2500rpm and check voltage should be 13 or over if not alternator is bad, if it is then shut car remove battery and take to auto store have them load test battery, or if u have a load tester , charge battery until full charge, connect tester and hit load switch for a couple of seconds , if it falls to red area then battery has a bad cell.
Probably your battery is a goner. Check it for voltage and apply a load test meter (heating coil loading, buy one at Harbor Freight for under 20 bucks) If it shows bad after 2 ten second tests buy a battery.
The best way is to get a voltmeter and check the voltage of the battery with the truck running and not running. When the truck is running, the voltage across the battery terminals should be aboput 14.9 volts (showing the alternator is charging the battery). With the truck off, the battery voltage should be about 12 volts (showing that the battery is holding the charge). From there, you should be able to tell which is bad.