Question about 1994 Suzuki RF 900 R

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After bleeding my clutch system, after a few days , 2 or so, seems like air come in and i have to bleed it again. After this it works fine, but after another 2 days, i have to bleed again... Any ideas on where my I find the problem??

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9 times out of 10, this is caused by a poor slave cylinder seal, buy a repair kit from Wemoto and solve your problem. The Master cylinder repair kit can be used also to be sure, but my experience is it's usually the slave cylinder.

Posted on Aug 26, 2010

  • gustavohcsoa Aug 27, 2010

    thanks for you reply! i bought a new slave repair kit and the entire slave unit (used part) from ebay, i think it will be finished by tomorrow (cleaning/installation), but im 99% sure this will solve my problem! I could save the repair kit for later also, since the used slave unit seems to be fine. Lets see how does the rf handles it!

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1 Answer

Ho do I bleed the clutch fluid? Where is the bleed nipple?


This is a classic sign of master cylinder failure as the seals wear does the peddle when pump fast build up to something like normal if the answer is yea new master cylinder it's reasonably cheap, the bleed nipple is usually under the car at the rear of the slave cylinder it's very easy to bleed the system on your own with an automatic bleed pipe, from any motorist store or a more expensive kit depending on your pocket, you can make your own by purchasing a length of rubber tubing that fifts tight over the bleed nipple push an old bolt or a piece of round plastic or something of that nature that fits tight in the end of the tube then get a Stanley knife and put a slit a 10mm long just above were you have inserted the plugged up end of the tube, when completed connect the open end to the bleed nipple insert the blocked end into a jam jar or some other vessel to receive the old fluid when you bleed, turn the bleed screw one complete full turn then press the clutch peddle all the way down to the floor and back up again do this slowly a few times until your sure all the air or clean fluid comes out retighten and that's it you should be up and running trouble free, remember the tube should be rubber not soft plastic etc. or it will not close up on itself when bleeding, and will let air back into the system. good luck

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1 Answer

Why is the new clutch slipping on 995 mazda astina


rebleed the slave cylinder, there may be a leak and air gets trapped in system. make sure fluid is at proper level when bleeding the system. good-day !

Jan 15, 2012 | Mazda 323 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I just changed the hydraulic master cyl and bleed the clutch over a few days with 1/2 bottle of DOT-4. The bike starts fine in neutral but locks up when put into gear. How do I get the clutch plates un...


It sounds very much like you have still got air in the system, have you tried bleeding the system with individual strokes Eg: bleed tube on nipple going into a glass jar with some fluid in the bottom of it. Release the bleed nipple operate the clutch, keeping the clutch gripped tighten the bleed nipple. release the clutch then open the nipple and grip the clutch again then close the nipple release the clutch etc etc until there is no bubbles appearing in the fluid in the jar. Remember you can compress air and so any air that is in the system will compress instead of displacing the fluid. Fluid cannot be compressed therefore it must be displaced, so no air in the system then displacement occurs. Failing that release the outflow from the MC just enough for fluid to escape then wrapping a cloth around the outflow pipe to avoid fluid dripping on paintwork, pull the clutch then tighten the outflow pipe, release it once again and pull the clutch then tighten the pipe again when you feel sure there is no air in the MC making sure the outflow pipe is tightened then move down to the slave cyl and bleed as describediously prev

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I have a 2001 holden rodeo turbo diesel and only just got the clutch and pressure plate replaced two days ago and now when you put your foot on the clutch it feels as though you are putting your foot on...


possibly air trapped in hydraulic clutch system causes pedal to go low and hard like brake pedal,
bleed from bleed nipple on firewall (bulkhead) under bonnet, left side of vehicle then under neath at slave cylinder.
when left for a while or turn vehicle off it comes good again due to air in line shifts position
these can be tricky to bleed also due to pedal doesnt come up when bleeding must pull up with foot or hand do it slowly and pump it for a while before opening bleeder nipple again.
hopefully you put the clutch fork in the right way again if you replaced the thrust bearing and the bearing itself depending on engine configuration.

Feb 03, 2011 | 2000 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

New clutch in 2010 but still can't shift properly; sticks between **** changes


you clutch needs bled better, i'm currently going through this now. If bleed your clutch hydrolics, and after a few days it starts sticking again, you will need a new clutch master cylinder and slaves cylinder. About $70 at autozone. Make sure when you bleed it you get NO AIR not even little bubbles coming out of the bleeder. Bleeding the cluch is much more difficult that bleeding the brakes.

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1 Answer

I have a 5 spped neon and the cluch started to go out on me driving how do i check the fluied on it i just buy it....


Dot 3 brake fluid is OK for topping up the master cylinder. However if the level is right down and the clutch pedal has become spongy then you will have to bleed the air out of the lines. A low level also indicates that the slave cylinder has developed a leak and may also need to be replaced.

Bleeding the system is as follows. It also helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the tip of the bleed nipple, which makes it easier to see if there are any air bubbles still coming out.

1. Start with the Master Cylinder full of fluid. (Don't forget to check after a few bleeds that it stays above ¼ full so that you don't introduce more air into the line).

2. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times, then hold down, keeping weight on the pedal as fluid is released.

3. Loosen bleed nipple to release any air & fluid.

4. Tighten nipple. Assistant then lets clutch pedal return. It may be necessary to manually pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.

5. Wait a few seconds then repeat the sequence from #2.

Bleeding is complete when no more air bubbles are visible in the fluid released from the bleed nipple. If clutch is still spongy you may have to repeat the bleeding after a few days driving. If the Slave cylinder does not have a bleed nipple the union nut that attaches the fluid pipe can be used for bleeding. However, it is a bit harder to observe when all air is purged and of course very messy as fluid will drip everywhere.

Oct 28, 2010 | 1998 Plymouth Neon

1 Answer

My clutch went out and i had a mechanic friend replace the part...its the part under the engine not the actual clutch but he cant get pressure back in the clutch and cant figure out if bleeding the system...


Bleeding the system is as follows. It also helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the tip of the bleed nipple, which makes it easier to see if there are any air bubbles still coming out.

1. Start with the Master Cylinder full of fluid. (Don't forget to check after a few bleeds that it stays above ¼ full so that you don't introduce more air into the line).

2. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times, then hold down, keeping weight on the pedal as fluid is released.

3. Loosen bleed nipple to release any air & fluid.

4. Tighten nipple. Assistant then lets clutch pedal return. It may be necessary to manually pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.

5. Wait a few seconds then repeat the sequence from #2.
Bleeding is complete when no more air bubbles are visible in the fluid released from the bleed nipple. If clutch is still spongy you may have to repeat the bleeding after a few days driving.

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2 Answers

Bleeding clutch slave cylinder


i think youre doing the right thing. they are very stubborn to bleed because the hyd. line goes up high across back of engine before droppiing back down to slave cyl., trapping air. could try to gravity bleed by opening bleeder at slave, cap off of master cyl, full with fluid then it may start to come out after a bit. then try your process again. or can try to bleed at connections further up the line, working your way back to bleeder. hope this helps. be patient.

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