Question about kawasaki KX 125 Motorcycles

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I need to replace the rod and crank bearings on my kx100 and I want to know exactly what I need to take apart to get to the crank. What side of the motor do I take off to get to it?

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It is a massive job you are talking about doing there. The engine must be removed, and entirely dismantled. Then the engine cases must be split to remove the crank. Not something you should attempt without a work shop manual, and lots of mechanical knowledge.
The crank bearings need to be pressed on.

Posted on Aug 05, 2010

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Bearing oil clearance and new size bearing


No the oil clearance is correct for BOTH bearings @ .022 -.046 mm to try to get a true clearance measurement use a micrometer and measure in 4 places 90 degrees part this will check for out of round journal and compare to a factory journal size. there may be a .001 thousand or .002 thousand undersize bearing insert that will bring oil clearance in to specs. but most connecting rods get black from a spun bearing and they need to stay round so a inside micrometer is used to check that 10 times out 10 the connecting rod is replaced.

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To change the outer main bearing on a t30 - 23405l do you have to take everything apart including taking off the jugs?


Let me give you some info. I guess you are talking about the bearing next to the fly wheel. The crankshaft has to come completely out. the crank can not be removed until you have removed the rods from the crank shaft pin. Most of the time if a bearing goes bad you need to replace the rods and crank shaft pin. I 've never done it but if you can get the rods out of the way the crank will come out. My recommendation would be, remove the fly wheel, remove the inner cooler, remove any small tubing lines, Remove the front frame cover, Remove the 2 bolts holding the crank pin bushing (don't forget to lock wire these bolts back together during assembly), Remove the cylinder, head, piston and rod together as a unit. Don't let the piston come out of the cylinder or move around to much unless replacing the rods. Once you get both LP and HP cylinders, heads etc off you can remove the front bearing cap exposing the bearing and a snap ring. Take a piece of wood or brass and from the crank shaft counter weight side (rod side)knock the crank shaft toward the fly wheel side until the snap ring can be removed. Once the snap ring is removed knock the crankshaft back toward the rod side and continue until out of the bearing races. Then remove the crank. The outer bearing can then be pressed off with the retainer at one time. Remove the sleeve. To remove the large bearing(back bearing) you need to be very careful and cut it off. Don't mess up the crank shaft. I've tried several ways to remove the back bearing but the easiest is cutting it off. To answer your question yes you have to disassemble to change bearings.

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A piece of metal scrathed the side wall of my piston sleeve and goudged the top of the inside of my crankcase,like where my spark plug scews in.it siezed up and when i opened it i noticed antifreeze on top...


There should be no play up and down. Any play is coming from a worn out needle bearing on the crank. A bit side to side is okay and normal. The crank will need to come out then it gets pressed apart and fitted with a new bearing. Price out the difference in cost of fixing the crank verses getting a new $170 crank assembly.What probably happened is a broken piston ring extended into a cylinder port and the piston against the ring is what gouged the cylinder and head. Please rate my answer.
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Do i need to replace the hole crank if the bearing on the bottom of the piston arm is shot


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So my Dynacraft Next turbo bicycle crank arms and pedals were wobbling and found out the issue was a bent bearing.So instead of taking it apart,we decided to hammer the bent bearing back into the crank...


the little balls are the bearings, ie: ball bearings, so they are the size, take them to a bike shop and get a replacement kit.
Your crank is probably not bent , it takes a big crash or something to bend one. there is an adusjment nut and lock nut to set them back up. could be LH thread on the left hand side

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1 Answer

Changing rod bearings


You'll find that once you've removed the connecting rod cap, that you can easily replace that one of course, so take a small screwdriver and use it to push up on the other bearing, on the side that doesn't have the notch, you should be able to also push up a hair on the rod to get a little slack, but the bearing will slide around the crank and you just reinsert the smooth part first, kind of just the opposite of what you just did to reinstall. center the bearing in the rod, pull the rod flush with the crank and reinstall the lower cap and torque to specificatioin.

Of course, lots of oil on the bearings & crank, if there is damage to the crank, you may want to turn it enough with the cap & rod not on it to polish it a bit with emory cloth.

Clearance shouldn't be a factor but you must torque to the exact specs to get the correct "crush" on those bearings and provide proper contact, while not being too tight to cause immediate breakdown by not letting the oil pass & lubricate the crank.

Hope that sheds some light on it. Crank bearings can be changed the same way.

good luck.

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1 Answer

How too replace connecting rod on a ttr 125l. I have a 2001 ttr 125 with a seized conn big bearing. and I would like to know the proper way of splitting the crank too replace it


The top end comes off then the left and right side covers, flywheel, clutch and shift shaft. Now a case splitter is used to split the center case halves. To replace the bearing you will need a hydraulic press to disassemble and reassemble the crank halves. If the bearing is seized you should replace the bearing, crank pin and the connecting rod. The crank must be realigned using twin dial gages. Personally, I suggest a new crank assembly be purchased from www.babbittsonline.com ( $241 ). I would replace the crank end bearings at the same time and also the sprocket shaft outer bearing and seal. Please rate my answer.

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1 Answer

Want to know what parts i need to replace my lower connecting rod bearing on 99 suzuki rm 125 and the best place to get them


Understand that your bike has a pressed crank. A shop will need to press the crank apart then press it back together and align the crank. I suggest you go to Babbitt's for parts.

www.babbittsonline.com /parts/viewby brand/parts.aspx

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1 Answer

Low compression #1 cylinder. Can I replace rings in all cylinders without removing crank? Is necessary to replace all rod bearings also? 2000 Camry 2.2 Car is going to be used as a trade in. Maybe the...


You may still want to check the valves anyway...if there is a fault, it should be guaranteed after so few miles. That's where the compression leakdown is handy, but the oil test does sound more like rings.

You should not have to remove the crank, but each set of rod bearings should be inspected for wear and replaced if necessary. You didn't say how many miles were on the car, but if the valves were worn out, the bearings might be too.

If you don't replace any rod bearings, make sure they go back EXACTLY the same way and in the same place from which they came. Add a little oil to them before you reassemble the bearings. Rod bearings have a tolerance and should be checked with a micrometer. Also look for any scoring, taper, or wear on the crank (hopefully it's ok). You may need to use or get a cylinder ridge remover to remove the pistons.

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2 Answers

Engine Knock/Rod Bearing


1.No, the connecting rod is not bent from the factory.

2.Bearing is shot for that rod? No matter, as you will be replacing that rod, and the rod bearings for both rods. Doesn't make sense to replace one while you're deep in there, and it's probably in a worn out shape anyway. Besides, if that rod bearing even STARTED to spin, you'd have to have the lower end of the rod bore resized, anyway.

Observe the wear pattern of the rod bearings. Are they worn off to one side somewhat. The wear pattern should be even down the middle of the bearing. If it's off to one side somewhat, you have a twisted crank.
Sounds like somebody hit high RPM's and missed a shift! (Or wound it so tight they went way above the red zone in the tach)

3.Machine the crank? Why? Crank pin surface is damaged? You can only turn it down so much. Probably .020, (20 thousandths), to clean it up, or the crank is shot. (.030 is about a 32nd of an inch. Actually it's .0325)
If the crank pin, (Rod pin) surface is damaged, have a skilled machinist take a look, and see if it will clean up at the minimum required diameter. It's in the book.

4.Search the bike junkyards, (EXCUSE ME! Salvage yards!), for parts, and check Ebay.

5.I know you know this, but everything must be PERFECT when you reassemble the lower end. Not close -> PERFECT!! Otherwise this puppy will scatter across the road, when you hit 65 miles an hour, and 5000 grand on the tach! (When you're on the on ramp approaching the highway)

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