You need to start from the battery, how is the condition of it, is it charged up?, are the connectors good? Using a test lamp, or a multi meter, check you have power at the battery, then trace it to the next place, till you find the break.
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Hi, Dan before diagnosing your blown fuse issue, check the bottom of your seat, if its metal and comes in close proximity to the positive battery post you need to take the necessary steps to ensure there is no contact (electrical tape, thick rubber insulation, hammer a dent in the seat bottom etc.) You are going to need a wiring diagram from your service manual, a test light, an ohmmeter and plenty of extra fuses.
If you turn on your ignition switch and immediately blow a fuse you have a hard/dead short and is usually easy to find. With a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder start stabbing the wire/s that leads away from the fuse holder and towards the ignition switch, you test light will illuminate validating the short. When the test light fails to illuminate you have passed the short and need to back up until the test light illuminates, then look in the immediate area for the short.
If you driving down the road for 30 minutes or 15 miles and blow a fuse you have soft/flying short and may take some time and patience to find.
If the main fuse/circuit breaker constantly blows/trips while riding you probably have a faulty battery terminal connection. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Any other fuses that constantly keep blowing while riding are usually caused by a loose or corroded ground wire in the circuit, which means you have to check, inspect, test each and everyone with an ohm meter set on a low ohm scale 100 ohms or less . Simply touch one lead to the ground source and the other lead to the battery negative terminal, a reading of zero indicates a clean solid ground. Any reading or infinity indicates a poor ground and needs to be repaired. Poor or weak grounds require excessive additional amperage to complete the circuit which in turn blows the small amperage fuse.
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A fuse can blow but physically look intact. How did you verify the fuses were ok? It could be that the 40A fuse 8 in the engine compartment fuse box has blown.
This supplies multiple circuits which are themselves individually fused in the consumer box inside the car.
The smaller 15A fuse 15 in the consumer box would normally blow under these circumstances but f the horn does not work as well and there are other things you have not listed that do not work like brake lights or headlights, it is definitely the under bonnet fusebox where the problem lies.
If the fuses are ok, then check all main relays, then I would say its the ignition switch, if no power to anything. The ignition switch supplies and controls about 50 percent of your vehicle's total power needs. Its worth a try.
The hot wire to the starter comes from the starter relay. The relay has for pins numbered 30,85,86 87. 30 should have power at all times, this will put power to 87 when the relay is energized Now 85 is usually ground and 86 is the ignition wire. The ignition wire will be hot when you turn the key to the start position. Also in the fuse box the is a crank fuse 10amp. you will need to check this. You have one fuse/relay box under the hood and one under the back seat. I believe the fuse you are hunting for is under the seat. The seats come out one of two ways. first you has to push back on the front of the seat while pulling up where the passenger sits on both sides. Yours may have a latch on both side same place. check this out and let me knowIf you think the relay may be bad, just swap it with another one in the relay box. Of course replace it if it is.Randy
Did you also check the system fuses? The fuse box is located behind the left side crankcase cover above the coolant reservior.
The 15 amp Signal fuse protects the coolant temperature light, the turn signal indicator light, the neutral indicator light, the oil pressure light, horn, brake/taillight, postition light and turn signal light. Basically, if this fuse is blown, your cluster will be inop.
Initially, check the fuse and fuse holder in the fuse box under the seat. Pay Particular attention to the middle fuse. In some instances, the fuse itself maybe good but the holder is loose or corroded. Do the same for the ignition switch.
I read your problem.
Is there a few step to diagnostic or try to fix your car.
Follow this simple steps.
Inspect the RALAY " Starter relay # 47. or interchange with other one just for testing.
1- Check the Fuse " IGN E Fuse number 22 " 10amp. on under hood fuse BOX fron Neutro swicth
And power to the power to the Neutro safetly switch.
2-- Check the Fuse " CRANK fuse # 17 10amp. Under hood fuse box. 12v. from Ignition switch
3- check the fuse " IGN A fuse # 34 40 amp. under hodd fuse box. Constant 12v. to relay.
With ignition switch in ON position.
Crank Fuse only when you try to start. If no power 12v. come when trying to start.
REmove the steering column covers. to get axces to the IGNITION SWITCH.
Trying to start check if 12 v on the YELLOW wire exist. if not. Check if there a 12v on the RED wire
If not Inspect FUSE # 34.
But if there a power on the red wire But not ON yellow wire Trying to start.
Just REPLACE THE IGNITION SWITCH. Electrical part.
Check the NEUTRO SAFETLY SWITCH. connector under the car. Repair as need.
CHeck the BACK-UP lights, some times come damaged making a short on the Neutro safetly switch. ...
OK.. I hope this help on your problem.
If you need more information letme know.
I'm a Mechanic and have all the information for repair vehicles.