Question about 2003 Suzuki VL 800 Volusia

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How do i get to the battery? i know its in front of the rear tire at the bottom of the bike, i need to jump it.

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The battery on this bike is actually under the saddle. You will need to remove the rear seat, which is held in with a 6mm allen head screw. Once you remove the rear seat (if so equipped) you will see an odd looking bolt holding down the saddle. It has a cylindrical head over and the actual bolt head under that. Remove the saddle by lifiting up and back. You will see the battery right there.

Posted on Aug 04, 2010


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Where does the small tube from bottom of float bowl go

First, where does it come from. It is the overflow for the carb. Comes from a tube inside the carb. Where it goes; basically out the bottom of the bike. It does not connect to anything. just routes down the frame and out the bottom of the bike. It allows any overflow fuel to not get all over your bike.

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How do I get to the battery to charge or jump start and or replace

The battery compartment is at the very bottom of the bike, just in front of the rear tire in a metal box, sitting between the exhaust pipes. There are two 10mm head bolts that hold a trap door closed to let the battery drop down and out.

To take the battery out, you'll first have to unscrew the positive and negative leads on the battery. The negative is on the left side of the bike (same as the gear shifter) just above the heatsink looking piece of metal. Unscrew that first.

The positive is on the right side (brake and throttle side of bike) and has a red wire connecting to the battery. You can see it just above the exhaust and brake wire as you look at the bike. Unscrew this second, then unbolt the trap door. On my bike, I have to lift up the exhaust pipes a bit to get at the bolts. Once the trap door is down, the battery will drop and you can angle it out with the bike on its kickstand.

Check for more info on Intruders. They have some indepth guides and pictures. I learned everything about my motorcycle from the guys there.

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Hi, Anonymous here are some options for lowering your bike depending on your needs and wallet:
1. Rear shock lowering kit.
2. Front fork lowering kit.
3. Shorter rear shocks.
4. Shorter front forks.
5. Thinner padded seat.
6. Lower profile tires.
Please be aware that some of these options or a combination of options will require a shorter kickstand or your stock one modified. For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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  1. Standard Maintenance Schedule
    • The oil and filter should be changed at the first 1,000 miles, then 5,000 miles, then every 5,000 miles thereafter. The transmission lubricant should also be changed with the first 1,000 miles, then every 10,000 miles, along with the spark plugs. The following should also be tended to:
      * At 10,000 miles, the steering head bearings need lubricating.
      * At 20,000 miles, lubricate the steering head bearings again and adjust them if necessary. Also, change the front fork oil.
      * At 25,000 miles, lubricate the master cylinder pistons, the front brake lever pin and the brake caliper pins. Replace the brake caliper boots, bushings and the rubber components in the master cylinders and calipers.
      * At 30,000 miles, replace the rear fork bearings.
    Maintenance for Winter Storage
    • Putting your bike away for the winter entails more than parking it in the garage. You want to store it in prime condition so that it runs properly when you restart it. Storing your machine for the winter entails:
      * Changing the oil and filter.
      * Adding fuel stabilizer and running the bike so the fluid flow through the fuel system.
      * Remove the battery and plug it into a battery tender that will keep it charged through the winter or run your bike for a few minutes every few weeks to keep the battery charged.
      * Properly inflate the tires and move the bike occasionally to even out the tire pressure.
      * Clean the bike, polish your chrome and aluminum surfaces, wash the windshield and treat the leather surfaces with a protector.
      * Store it indoors, or cover the Harley with a motorcycle cover, to protect it from the elements.
    Pre-Ride Check List
    • Inspecting your Harley whenever you ride is a good idea, but it should always be done before you go on a long trip. A pre-ride review should consist of the following check points:
      * Your fluids.
      * Your controls, such as the brakes, throttle and steering.
      * Your tire pressure.
      * Your breaks.
      * Your lights, like your signals, headlights and tail lights.
      * Your mirrors, to make sure they are properly adjusted.
      * Your battery.
      * Inspect for leaks related to oil, fuel and hydraulics.
      * Examine the drive belt and sprockets.
    • Make sure the tires are inflated so they wear properly and the bike handles normally. Check that both tires have their valve stems and they are in good condition. Test that your wheel spokes are tight by lightly running a screwdriver tip over them. A loose spoke sounds different than those with the correct tension.
    • A battery's terminals and connectors should be kept clean. Test that the clamps and cables are tight since loose connections are usually the culprit when it comes to sudden battery failure. Keep the vent tube clear of any kinks and/or blockages.
    • The rotors to your brakes need to have a smooth surface that's free of debris. Examine where the brake pads come in contact with the rotors to see if there's any discoloration. Check your manual to verify the proper thickness of your brake pads.
    • It's a good idea to have a friend look at your lights--front, back, brake and blinkers--while you flip the switches. You can use a wall or window for a reflection if you are testing them alone.

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My 2001 volusioa intruder got hot on the bottom end, left side, and the shifter got really tight and hard to shift?I was told it could be low on oil and am not sure how to check it?

Engine and Transmission
The motorcycle is powered by a 805-cc, or 49.12-cubic-inch, two-cylinder, four-stroke engine. The engine's bore and stroke measure 83.0 and 74.4 millimeters, or 3.3 and 2.9 inches, respectively. The compression ratio is 9.4-to-1. The engine is liquid-cooled. Like most other bikes in its class, the 2004 Suzuki Volusia 800 features a five speed transmission,

Suspension, Brakes and Tires
The 2004 Suzuki Volusia 800 comes with an oil-damped telescopic front suspension, and link-type, oil-damped, seven-way adjustable rear suspension with spring preload. The front and rear brakes are single disc. The bike has a 130/90-16 front tire and a 170/80-15 rear tire.

Apr 23, 2011 | 2003 Suzuki VL 800 Volusia

1 Answer

Just need to know the oem recommended tire size front ant rear for this bike.

The recommended tire size for the Suzuki VL 800 is:

FRONT: 130/90-16
REAR: 170/80-15

Feb 18, 2011 | 2003 Suzuki VL 800 Volusia

1 Answer

I bought my bike used, so it didn't come with a user's manual. I need to know what my tire pressure should be. Thanks.

There is a sticker on the frame or swing arm that tells you the recommend front and rear tire pressure. You will get a stiffer ride but you will also get more even wear (less cupping) and better cornering if you run a slightly higher pressure. 35 psi front and 35 psi rear works well.

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I just want to know what the tire pressure is for the front and rear tires

There is usually a sticker on the bike frame by the side cover that recommends the front and rear tire pressure. Regardless, I have found that running 35 pounds front and rear promotes even as well as longer tire wear. The ride may be harder but you also get less cupping on the tires.

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Should be on the frame of the bike near or on the same lable as the VIN as are the tire sizes and wheight recomodations. The tires also have their maxine and min. pressures on the tires. Generally the rear tire will have 42 PSI and the front can run 32 PSI Tuning the way the bike steers and takes bumps can be done with tire pressure except never go below 28 PSI and never go above the highest number on the tire itself. If the bike doesn't have the trires on it the came with it new the best thing is to call the tech line for the makers of the tires and ask them telling them the bike the loads its going to carry and the exate tire size and model that your talking about. The pressures in the manual and on the frame and the ones for the tires that didn't come with the bike may work OK but if there other tires get the tiremakers recomodations. Many tires run best and last longest with the high number on the tire, but sometimes ride a little harder than you like.

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