Question about 2003 Honda CB 250 Nighthawk

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Rattle and slippage when engaging clutch, only when hot after a ling ride. does not rattle or slip at all when clutch is fully engaged.

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Clutch plates may be worn. You would have to pull the side cover to inspect them. Honda clutch's always rattle at an idle when in neutral. If you just pull in the clutch lever the rattle will go away. Let the lever out and it will rattle again. As for the slippage, if your clutch cable is binding at all it will keep the clutch from fully engaging when you release the handle. This will cause the clutch to slip for a second or two until the cable fully releases from the bind. Any resistance in the cable and you should replace it.

Posted on Aug 04, 2010

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you check at your local library for a price guide to let you know how long the job should take and then you can call local repair shops to ask how much they charge per hour for the job

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1 Answer

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Tranny slippage can be caused by several things (each contributes to a varying degree, if at all)

1. cold parts are smaller > > > don't seal properly
2. cold fluid is more viscous > > > don't flow properly
3. bad fluid can cause build-up > > > slow actuators & clog fluid passages
4. worn parts > > > don't seal properly

Result: low fluid pressure pressing on bands/clutches = slippage

The good news: as everything warms up, tolerances normalize, system leaks seal & fluid flows more readily creating enough pressure to keep bands/clutches from slipping excessively (normal operation)

As for the 4WD not engaging, I would be willing to bet the front differential actuator is frozen/stuck (assuming it has worked recently)

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1 Answer

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Sounds a lot like clutch slippage to me. First I would check clutch oil. If it is low or worn enough to have lost its viscosity that could be the cause. Here is the backyard **** mechanic way to check clutch wear and slippage. Crude but effective. Point the bike toward a sturdy flat stationary object (a brick wall?). Roll the front wheel firmly against the wall. Make sure the bike is perfectly perpendicular to the wall, the frot wheel is aligned straight, and that the rear wheel is on a solid surface (concrete or asphalt -- not grass or dirt). Climb aboard into riding position and start the bike. In first gear clutch in, rev the bike as you would for a moderate start away from a stop (maybe 3k-4k or so) and slowly release the clutch. If the clutch is good, as the clutch starts to grab the revs will go down noticeably, and as it gets fully engaged or close to it the bike will stall. If the clutch is slipping (depending on how bad it is) the motor will continue to spin at pretty much the same speed as the clutch is engaged. This is a kind of touch-feel thing but if the clutch is bad, you should know it. Needless to say do this carefully and at your own risk, but it works a wonder if you do it right. Another way to check is to ride the bike. Get into the power range barely (above 8K) and hold it steady. Does not really matter what gear, but I suggest 2nd or 3rd. Whack the throttle. If the RPMs rise quickly (quicker than the speed) you've got clutch slippage.,,,

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2 Answers

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have you checked the clutch mechanism? for me sounds like the clutch doesn't engage properly or fully rather. Ask your mechanic to check the clutch system fully and check whether it fully engages, or do this check for yourself. Bring car onto a flat surface and shift to 1st while engine being switched off, start it while pressing the clutch (fully down to the floor board) and then release parking break and check for following
whether vehicle is moving
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does engine get loaded and start vibrate or rattle a bit

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