Question about 2004 Honda VT 1100 C2 Shadow Sabre

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I have a 1998 VT1100C3. The battery continues to discharge when the bike is running. I replaces the starter solenoid, it kept blowing fuses. I was told the stator could be bad. I am only getting 11.5 - 11.62volts at the battery running or stopped. Voltage regulator maybe??? am lost, please advise Thanks

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Last year the stator failed in my 2003 Sabre. The voltage readings you have make sense for the stator. You're not getting enough voltage to charge the battery. I found out about many others that had stator issues with my model and year. I tried the voltage regulator 1st (it was much easier to install) and in the end it was the stator.

Posted on Aug 10, 2010

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YES ITS DEFINATLEY NOT CHARGING SO THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR IS THE RIGHT PLACE TO START

Posted on Aug 04, 2010

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Hi, Anonymous you turn on the ignition switch press the starter button and all you get is the dreaded "CLICK" or "CLUNK" now before testing any electrical component in the Starter System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Depending on battery voltage starter relays and starter solenoids can make the same noise when you hit the starter button. You can easily determine which one is at fault by the following two simple tests:
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Hi, Anonymous you turn on the ignition switch press the starter button and all you get is the dreaded "CLICK" or "CLUNK" now before testing any electrical component in the Starter System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Depending on battery voltage starter relays and starter solenoids can make the same noise when you hit the starter button. You can easily determine which one is at fault by the following two simple tests:
STARTER RELAY- place your thumb and index finger on the starter relay and press the starter button, if you feel the click then the relay is faulty and needs to be replaced.
STARTER SOLENOID- bridge the positive and negative poles of the solenoid with a small screwdriver if you get a loud clunk then the solenoid needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. If the engine turns over then replace the starter relay otherwise the usual suspects for a faulty starter solenoid are:
1. Battery terminals have loose or corroded connections.
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3. Battery voltage, must be 12.5 volts or better, voltage from the battery to the main circuit breaker to the ignition switch to the security/ignition fuse to the TSM/TSSM module to the engine stop/run switch to the starter button to the starter relay to the green wire that connects to the starter solenoid must not drop more than 1/2 volt of battery voltage.
4. Disconnect spark plug cables, with a voltmeter connected to the battery, the ignition switch in the on position, the kill switch in the run position, the starter button depressed, starter engagement should not bring voltage below 9.6 volts DC. If the voltage is below 9.6 the battery is faulty and must be replaced. I "HIGHLY" recommend a maintenance free AGM battery typically they have more amperage for cranking.
5. Faulty starter relay, check continuity.
6. Faulty starter solenoid, check contact plate and shoes for excessive electrical erosion/etching, refurbish as necessary or invert contact plate and use the virgin backside. Check contact shoes for being loose. Replace solenoid if the negative function is still a final outcome.
7. Faulty starter, bench test starter with a 12-volt battery if negative function check, decontaminate and undercut armature commutator segments as necessary, check segments with an ohmmeter probe each one and the segment next to it for shorts. Have the armature tested with a growler and field coils, and brush plate with an ohm-meter for opens, shorts or grounds. Replace brushes if less than .438" It is generally cheaper to overhaul/refurbish a starter motor than buying a new one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

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Check the main fuse on the starter solenoid. If it blows everything just shuts down. Follow the positive battery cable from the battery to the starter solenoid and replace the fuse. If that does not fix the problem remove the battery and have it load tested. A simple way to test for a broken cell in a battery (if you do not have a load tester) just jump the two starter solenoid terminals with a piece of wire or a screw driver, if there is not enough power to move the starter you may have a broken connection between the cells in the battery. Then you just need a new battery. My bet is you just need to replace the main fuse.

Apr 19, 2011 | Honda VT 500 C Motorcycles

1 Answer

Starter motor continues to run(without starting the engine) with the kill switch off and ignition turned of and the keys removed


Most bikes are built with this setup....
the positive battery post has 2 cables....one goes directly to one side of the starter solenoid relay, the other goes to the main fuse for the bike. With the key on, when you press the starter button it completes the circuit for the relay coil, which closes the heavy contacts of the solenoid and puts power to the starter motor.
This design allows the starter button to be constructed with smaller wires as they only operate the coil, not carry all the heavy current to spin the starter.
It sounds like your starter solenoid contacts are stuck closed so power is getting through at all times.
Sometimes with battery unhooked you can tap the solenoid and free the contacts....and it may work, however its probably time to replace the starter solenoid relay.

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1 Answer

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Hi, Rwheeler1965 before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

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I have a 82 gl 1100 goldwing. The previous owner


The fuse on the starter solenoid is the main fuse for the bike. If that fuse was removed and replaced with a wire, you could melt down the entire harness or even burn up the cycle. The short that was popping the fuse has probably melted part of the harness or popped fuses in another part of the bike. Start checking in the main fuse box in the fake tank for shorts. Also check the solenoid with the main fuse for melt down, good luck.

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