Question about 2005 kawasaki EL 125 Eliminator

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I need to charge the battery on my Kawasawki Eliminator motorcycle, and cannot tell which post is the GROUNDED post. Visually, what am I looking for to tell which post is grounded to the chasis?

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A red wire or red tape near the end of the wire indicates it to be the positive ( + ) terminal. The black wire is the ground wire, negative ( - ) terminal. The battery terminals will have a plus + and a minus - symbol on the top or the side of the battery casing. Additionally, the black wire will be bolted to the frame about 12 inches from the battery.

Posted on Aug 04, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Manual for 1996 Kawasaki Eliminator 600


Hi, Diane the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee around $10 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download.
To download your manual please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day
KAWASAKI ZL 600 ELIMINATOR SERVICE Repair MANUAL Download Download Manuals... $10
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
1997 Kawasaki Eliminator 600 Owner Manual
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Jul 16, 2017 | kawasaki Motorcycles

1 Answer

Manual for 1996 Kawasaki ZL 600 Eliminator


Hi, Diane the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee around $10 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download for viewing or printing.
To download your manual please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day
KAWASAKI ZL 600 ELIMINATOR SERVICE Repair MANUAL Download Download Manuals... $10
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Jul 16, 2017 | 1996 kawasaki ZL 250 Eliminator

1 Answer

2006 Kawasaki EL 250 Eliminator will not turn over


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Starting Issues With 1989 Kawasaki Eliminator 250 Classic Motorcycle...
3 Things to Look for When Your Motorcycle Won Start The Allstate Blog
1988 88 Kawasaki ELIMINATOR 250 EL250 EL Service Repair Shop Manual... $16
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
KAWASAKI EL250 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


Feb 12, 2014 | 2006 kawasaki EL 250 Eliminator V

1 Answer

2005 Kawasaki EL 125 Eliminator is not charging


Hi, Leedhurn before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing or printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
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Kawasaki Eliminator 125 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
2009 Kawasaki Eliminator 125 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


Aug 27, 2017 | 2005 kawasaki EL 125 Eliminator

1 Answer

I need a battery for my 1100 A3 kwak. Which is the correct one? Thank you Ted


a standard 12v that fits the model-dont matter what Co. they all wear out in 3 yr from heat, vibration, charging--if u hav a kikstarter a battery eliminator by Exxel can be installed -its maintenance free

Oct 19, 2010 | 1981 kawasaki KZ 1300 A3

1 Answer

Battery wont hold a charge. Testing stator n regulator/rectifyer both checked out ok. connectors look good along with wires. pulled stator out to check it visually also... looks like new. Im puzzled?


Have you put a meter across the battery to check its charging? I would expect to get 13.5 volts plus if the charging sytem is working.
It sounds like you have done all the good checks, but what about the battery itself? A failing battery can drag the charging sytem down. I would charge it up and ask a shop to load check it, or keep it off the bike and monitor if its holding charge for a few days. If it drops below 12 volts, it had it.

Sep 15, 2010 | 2007 Triumph Daytona 675

1 Answer

How can i tell


Post the model number from the serial number label. We can look it up for you.

Aug 07, 2008 | Motorola HT1000, MTS2000, MTX8000/9000...

1 Answer

Frequency determination


The number you are looking for should start out with a "H"

Example H01UCC6DB3AN, The 4th character "U", in this case denotes 806-870mhz range.

Post back with you model #

Podge

Apr 09, 2008 | Motorola HT1000, MTS2000, MTX8000/9000...

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