Question about 2000 KTM MXC 250

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Can not get the hydraulic clutch primed up and the line came loose and lost fluid i tightened line filled with fluid and primed the master but can't get it to catch.

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How do i troubleshoot my clutch system


No, the clutch and brake hydraulic systems are not connected.
If you are loosing fluid, you should be able to tell if it is leaking from the master cylinder where you add fluid, or the slave cylinder on the transmission.

Jun 18, 2015 | 1999 Ford Escort

1 Answer

How do you prime a clutch on a transmission of a 2004 ford edge


For manual transmissions the master cylinder holds BRAKE fluid with a 2 ounce syringe filled with brake fluid and rubber hose on the end loosen bleeder screw on slave cylinder located on transmission near the engine squeeze the fluid into system master cylinder reservoir should start filling up this will force all air out the master tighten screw.

Apr 22, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I need to bleed the hydraulic clutch system


Your hydraulic clutch system is a wonderful smoothly operating method of engaging and disengaging the engine from the transmission. Most of the time. However, should you ever find the need to expel air from this hydraulic line...you may in for a long tedious experience.

I recently had to replace the master cylinder of my hydraulic clutch system. This was easily done as it comprised only one fluid line..and two bolts. Once the new master cylinder was mounted however, I found that air had gotten into the line..and adamantly refused to leave.

I undertook all of the common methods of removing this air but to no avail. I tried bleeding the system from the slave cylinder. I tried opening and closing the bleeder valve at the slave cylinder while someone pumped the clutch pedal for me. I tried using a vacuum pump to pull fluid and air out of the system. Each and every effort failed.

Air in a hydraulic line is a for certain way to insure that the hydraulic function will NOT occur. Air is compressible. A fluid is not. So when you place you foot on a brake pedal, or a clutch pedal and apply pressure, the non-compressing nature of that fluid, allows that fluid to behave as if there was an actual physical link in action. As an example..if there was a steel bar attached to your brake pedal..that would activate the brakes when you stepped on the brake pedal...that bar would be an actual, physical, material link..from pedal to brake shoe. A hydraulic line is very similar. When you step on the pedal..there is a force applied to the brakes..by the non compressing nature of the fluid..within that line...the force applied on that pedal, is instantly applied at the other end of that line...unless..there is air trapped within that line. The air will compress..stealing energy..and will not transmit the force applied.

I did a great deal of searching online trying to find a method of removing this air from my hydraulic clutch system and discovered some of what was causing the problem. The Bore of the piston inside the master cylinder is small...and the stroke or forward movement of that piston..is rather short. There just wasn't enough movement of fluid going on to force the air out of the system in a reasonable amount of time. But my search did bare fruit finally..I found a wonderful article on refilling a hydraulic clutch system..that eliminates air, takes only a very few minutes and is not at all expensive.

What you need is one of those oil cans that has a spout and a trigger that will squirt the oil for you. This trigger...should be of the type that requires your index and middle fingers to operate as opposed to a can that has a thumb trigger. You will also need a length of clear plastic tubing that will fit snugly over the end of the oil can's spout..and will also fit snugly over the end of the disconnected fluid line at the slave cylinder.

In practice..it's very easy. Remove the fluid line from the slave cylinder and allow the system to bleed out entirely. While that is going on, fill your oil can with fresh clean brake fluid. Attach the tubing to the spout..and once the system has bled out..attach the other end of the tubing to the fluid line. Start pumping...just regular timed pumps are needed. Not too fast. This fluid, coming in from the bottom..fills the system from the bottom..UP..and pushes any air right out through the master cylinder. Take a peek at the master cylinder every now and again. When you see it beginning to fill with fluid...go ahead and fill it completely with brake fluid. Slip under the vehicle, re-connect the fluid line, pop open the bleeder on the slave cylinder..watch for fluid to come out...tighten the bleeder close again..and you are finished.

Oct 20, 2012 | 2005 Fiat Doblo 1.9

1 Answer

I have an 84 Honda shadow vt700. The clutch was working but would slip when hot it would get to where I could release clutch with bike in 1st gear and nothing would happen! It would just continue to idle!...


Bleeding the hydraulics will not improve the friction drive of the clutch in any way,your clutch drive plate is worn out and needs replacing. To bleed the hydraulic line ,make sure that the master cylinder is fully topped up,pump clutch lever several times then tie ,using a zip tie the clutch lever all the way to the handle bar,gently open the bleed screw and await fluid to start dripping from the bleed screw, this may take an hour or two but it will eventually bleed itself,once 25% of the fluid has discharged from the the master cylinder tighten up the bleed screw and this is the easiest DIY way of bleeding a hydraulic system, without a pressure bleeder.

May 04, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Pt cruiser clutch diagram


I recommend bleeding the clutch using instructions pasted from autozone.com below. As for the engine light, please get the computer scanned and send us the diagnostic trouble code.
Hydraulic System Bleeding NOTE
It is necessary to bleed the clutch hydraulic release system if the system has lost an excessive amount of fluid and has allowed air into the circuit. Air in the system typically results in a spongy pedal feel, and/or improper clutch release. If air cannot be removed from the system using this procedure, it is necessary to replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.

Except Turbocharged Models
  1. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system. Perform the following procedure:
  2. Verify fluid level in clutch master cylinder reservoir. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch slave cylinder assembly from the transaxle case, but do not disconnect from the system. Allow the slave cylinder hang, making it the lowest part of the system.
    CAUTION
    While slave cylinder is detached from the transaxle, DO NOT actuate the clutch master cylinder. Damage to the slave cylinder will result.
  5. Depress slave cylinder pushrod until it bottoms and then release. Repeat this at least ten times, forcing trapped air upwards and out of the system.
  6. Re-install slave cylinder into position. Torque slave cylinder to case bolt to 168 inch lbs. (19 Nm).
  7. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  8. Check and adjust clutch master cylinder fluid level. Actuate clutch pedal thirty (30) times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, air is still trapped within the system. Repeat Step 3 through Step 7 until air is purged. If several attempts at purging air from the system are unsuccessful, replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.
  9. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  10. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  11. Top off clutch master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
Turbocharged Models

NOTE
Due to the angle and design of the turbo hydraulic system components, gravity and pedal bleeding are less effective and less efficient than the reverse fluid injection method (reverse bleeding). Reverse bleeding is recommended for this system, and requires the use of commercially available injection bleeding equipment.

Alternate Procedure (Pedal Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    WARNING
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  4. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw. Immediately install rubber hose to bleed screw to prevent fluid from entering clutch bellhousing. Tighten bleed screw gently with suitable wrench.
  5. Lower vehicle.
  6. Have helper actuate clutch pedal to floor.
  7. Place collection container at end of hose to capture expelled fluid.
  8. Using suitable wrench, break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Have helper release pedal, returning it to at-rest position, and then actuate pedal to floor.
  10. Break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  11. Repeat procedure as necessary, keeping master cylinder reservoir full during the process, until air bubbles are no longer visible in collection container.
  12. When air bubbles are no longer visible, actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times.
  13. Verify release system function and top off fluid as necessary.
Recommended Procedure (Reverse Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Remove reservoir from bracket and empty into collection container.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    CAUTION
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  5. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw.


    Fig. Location of the bleed screw for the 2.4L engine
  6. Quickly attach hand operated bleed apparatus to bleed screw. Use care not to over-fill reservoir and spill fluid into engine compartment.
  7. Operate bleed gun sufficiently to expel air upward through circuit and out of master cylinder reservoir. Fill and empty reservoir three times.
  8. Remove bleed apparatus and tighten bleed screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  10. Top off reservoir with fluid, then return the cap.
  11. Verify system operation. Actuate clutch pedal 50 times. If necessary, repeat procedure until road test confirms that shift issues no longer exist.

May 20, 2017 | 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser

1 Answer

Bleeding the clutch after installing/96 bronco xlt


Clutch Master Cylinder ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ Inspect/Replace The clutch master cylinder is located next to the brake master cylinder. A slave cylinder is attached to the release lever at the clutch. The two cylinders are attached hydraulically by tubing and hose.
f62-17.gif A hydraulically operated clutch. To Remove:
  • Take off the reservoir cover and remove the fluid from the reservoir.
  • Disconnect any wires connected to the reservoir or master cylinder body.
  • Disconnect the tubes.
  • Remove the nuts or bolts attaching the master cylinder to the vehicle.
  • Slide the master cylinder off. If it will move only a short distance but no farther, replace one of the nuts or bolts (finger tight) to support the master cylinder and then disconnect the pushrod from the pedal. After disconnecting the clip or pin and clip holding the pushrod to the pedal, try to remove the master cylinder again.
To Replace:
  • When installing a new master cylinder, it is a good practice to flush the cylinder with clean brake fluid. This is done to remove any debris that might be left over from the manufacturing process or chemical coatings that were used to protect the cylinder from corrosion. To flush a master cylinder, simply fill the reservoirs and the cylinder bores about one-third full with clean brake fluid, install the reservoir cover, plug the line ports, shake the cylinder to work the fluid all around, and drain out all the fluid.
  • Bench bleed the cylinder.
  • If the old master cylinder used a boot or hub seal, a new one should be installed as the master cylinder is being replaced.
  • Place the master cylinder in position, replace the mounting bolts or nuts, and tighten them to the correct torque.
  • Reconnect the pushrod to the pedal as necessary.
  • Remove the plugs or bleeder tubes from the outlet port as you connect the line. Do not tighten the line yet. Place a shop cloth under the line fitting to catch any fluid that may leak out.
  • Fill the reservoir about three-fourths full with brake fluid.
  • Have an assistant slowly push the pedal as you observe the connections a the outlet port. They will probably be leaking some fluid with air bubbles. Continue the pedal strokes until only fluid with no air bubbles leaves the connection.
  • At this point, tighten the connection with the pedal is being pushed downward.
  • Fill the reservoir to the correct level and replace the cover.
  • Reconnect any wires that were disconnected.
  • Check the brake pedal free travel and adjust it if necessary. There should be 1/16 to 1/8 in. (1.6 to 3.1 mm) of free travel before the pushrod engages the piston in the master cylinder

May 08, 2012 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do i get the master clinder off?? i have the lines and the bolts off but i cant pull it lose


Hello there, The slave cylinder for the hydraulic clutch is mounted to the very front of the transmission and is only held in place with two bolts and the hydraulic line, see item #42 (x2) and item #26 in the attached photo.You might as well let the old hydraulic fluid drain completely and fill with fresh fluid when you get done. I would take the hyraulic line off the slave cylinder and put it in a jar. Then open the master cylinder cover and let it gravity drain completely. This will allow you to replace all the parts with a minimal amount of fluid getting all over. Remember, brake fluid damages car paint!The clutch master cylinder is a little bit more tricky in that you have to get under the dash to remove the bolts holding it in. Other than that, you might have to take your old reservoir and attach it to the new master cylinder unless your new one comes with a reservoir. I doubt it will and you don't need it to anyway. Item #37 and #43 are the studs and nuts you will have to release to get the master cylinder off the firewall. Of course pulling the tube to the reservoir and the hydraulic line should be done before removing the mounting nuts. There may be a clip holding the clutch pedal linkage to the clutch master cylinder push rod.Once everything is reassembled and everything is tight, fill the master cylinder reservoir and then loosen the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. You can depress the clutch pedal to force brake fluid from the master to the slave but if it goes like mine did, once I got the fluid running, it forced out all the air! I put a rubber hose over the bleeder screw and put it in a jar partially filled with brake fluid and kept adding fluid until no more air bubbles came out of the tube. You will know when everything is ok because the clutch pedal doesn't seem to want to come back up unless there is sufficient pressure in the clutch to force it back up. Buy about a quart of brake fluid to flush the lines and leave it topped off. Good luck...

Jan 28, 2011 | 1989 Honda Prelude

2 Answers

My clutch pedal one day got all loose and wouldnt get tight then i pumped it 4 five min and then it would get tight it goes back and forth between tight and loose and when loose wont go in gear and when...


Sounds like the master or slave cylinder is not right. If it gets tight when pumping it up, that's a hydraulic issue with the rubber parts not sealing, or air in the system.

Good luck on this repair.

Dec 30, 2010 | Ford Escort Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do u bleed the clutch on a 1985 toyota celica


See instructions below from autozone.com. If the clutch still has air after following this procedure, try back bleeding by pushing the slave piston in while the bleeder is open, then closing bleeder before releasing the piston. This is similar to bench bleeding the slave, in case you didn't do that before the installation.


HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING This operation must be performed any time the clutch master or slave cylinder has been removed or if any of the hydraulic lines have been opened.

WARNING Do not spill brake fluid on the bodywork of the vehicle; it will destroy the paint. If fluid is spilled, immediately wash the surface with plenty of clean water.

  1. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid.
  2. Remove the cap on the bleeder screw on the clutch slave cylinder. Install a clear vinyl hose on the fitting; place the other end submerged in a clear glass jar partially filled with brake fluid.
  3. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal slowly several times. After several pumps, hold the pedal down and open the bleeder, allowing fluid to flow into the jar. Close the bleeder valve almost immediately after opening it. Release the pedal only after the bleeder is closed.
  4. Repeat the process until the fluid in the hose contains no air bubbles. tube. When there are no more air bubbles in the system, tighten the plug fully with the pedal depressed. Replace the plastic cap.
  5. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir to the correct level with brake fluid.
  6. Check the system for leaks.

Nov 02, 2010 | 1985 Toyota Celica Supra

1 Answer

Clutch not primming in r32 skyline


You either have air in the system or a faulty master cylinder.

Check fluid is being delivered from the master cyl. by slackening off the hydraulic line connection at the master cylinder while depressing pedal.
Until fluid is able to be delivered from the master cyl. itself you have no hope of bleeding the rest of the system.

As with all hydraulic bleeding processes, only release the fluid line when the pedal is being pushed slowly down or held down against the return spring pressure of the clutch pressure plate - re-tighten it on the upward stroke of the pedal to stop it drawing air back into the system.

If you are confident that there is fluid delivery from the master cyl. move to the clutch slave cylinder.

Again only open the bleeder valve when the pedal is being pushed slowly down (i.e. the hydraulic system is pressurised).

(If you keep the master cylinder full of hydraulic fluid, sometimes gravity will cause the line to 'self bleed' if the bleed nipple is left slightly open for several minutes at the start of the bleed process).
When fluid appears, finish the slave cylinder air bleed in the normal way.

If you have the time to spare, I have often found that provided the master cylinder is kept full, leaving the system overnight will allow a lot of the air to leave the system (gravity helps).

May 31, 2009 | 2002 Nissan Altima

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