Question about 2005 Suzuki Boulevard S50

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  • Vtxboss Aug 04, 2010

    have you removed the cables?

  • rweimer128 Aug 04, 2010




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It's no big deal just make sure you push battery to the positive side of the battery case. if you need to put a piece of cardboard on the negitive side to hold it over. also make sure you put the positive cable on first just in case you you touch the box it won't arch.

Posted on Aug 04, 2010


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Remove install trancmiton Audi A8 2004

Audi A8 Transmission Removal and Replacement
This is a job that will prove to be difficult the first time around.Installation is the reverse order of the removal.

If you choose to remove your transmission by yourself, you might want read this carefully before starting. I don't have a step-by-step procedure or a tutorial video, but this should be close. Please don't break anything, but if you do, don't blame me! ;-)

Note from editor: Thanks very much to Gabor (tozoM8) for providing this procedure!

First roll at least one window down.

Disconnect the battery. Have your code number for your radio handy.

If you will have your car on the lift during the whole removal and replacement, you don't have to secure the engine from the top.

If you have to take the car off of the lift (waiting for the rebuilt transmission, torque converter or any other reason), you will have to support the engine form the top. I've made a simple engine support tool. Remember, your aluminum fenders are not strong enough to hold the engine with a general transmission support tool. You need one that supports the engine by sitting on the struts.


Remove the two plastic covers on the passenger's side (one by the ECU and one by the air box).

Remove the two covers by the driver's side (one by the coolant reservoir and one by the brake master cylinder).

Remove the plastic intake hose (between the air box and the TB). Reach down behind the engine on both sides and disconnect the 2 upper O2 sensors. It is a black, flat plastic connector with 3 wires.

Disconnect the two rear O2 sensors which are located under the front seats, under the carpet.

Now your car is ready to be lifted in the air. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts.

Raise the car at least 20" off the ground.

Take the two front wheels off.

Raise the car up, so you can walk under it comfortably.

Drain the transmission fluid. (11)

Remove the belly pan if your car has one.

Remove the exhaust system. Start with the O2 sensor cables. Pull the rubber plugs and pull down the cables from the cabin. Loosen the 4 bolts in the exhaust clamps. (13)

Remove the rear part of the exhaust system.


Remove the catalytic converter bolts (12).

There is a biscuit between the two flanges. Remove bolt (14).

Remove the two heat shields that protects the drive shaft. Remove the heat shield, that protects the rear transmission output flange (18).

Remove the 6 bolts that holds the drive shaft to the output flange (19). Put a rag over the drive shaft CV joint, it is greasy.


Disconnect the output speed sensor. It is located on the rear of passenger's side on the transmission.

Put a support under the engine by the oil pan.

Put another support under the center differential housing (20).

Put the third support under the sub frame.

Disconnect the front lower control arm from the sub frame (1). Remove the sway bar bolt (2).

Leave the rear control arm on the sub frame, disconnect it by the wheel by popping the ball joint at the lower shock assembly connection.

Remove (9) 4 bolts, (10) 6 bolts, mark the plate to the body with a sharpie.

Remove (28) 4 bolts, that hold the front engine supports to the sub frame.

Remove (15) 4 big bolts, that hold the sub frame to the car.


Remove sub frame, the rear control arms and the sway bar stays with the sub frame.


Remove the bolts from the inner CV joints. (4) 6 bolts on each side.

Remove the heat shield from the transmission above the axles. (5) 3 bolts on each side.


Remove the exhaust down pipe on both sides (29). You will need a 13mm socket with a looooong extension. When you have the transmission out you will have great access to the rear cam seals, cooler hoses and the famous center cowl drains.


Disconnect (6) wheel speed sensor, (7) engine speed sensor, (27) transmission cable, (26) F125 switch.


Remove the transmission mounts on both sides. 3 bolts each side.

Pop the shifter cable off of the transmission shifter lever, behind the F125 switch. Remove the 2 bolts, that holds the cable to the transmission.


On the driver's side, disconnect the transmission cooler lines from the transmission.

Remove the engine support on the passenger's side (17).

Remove the 2 bolts, that holds the (+) cable (18).

Disconnect the cable from the starter.

Remove the starter. (16) and one bolt from the transmission side.


With a long pry bar, carefully turn the flex plate (pushing upwards) until you see the torque converter bolt. (24) Remove it and turn the flex plate 120degrees, then one more time 120 degrees.


Put a transmission jack under the transmission and secure it. The transmission is 350lbs, so make sure that it will not fall on your toe. That would hurt!

Remove the stand from under the center differential housing.


Remove the transmission bolts around the bell housing. I think there are 9 bolts, 2 or 3 of them are on the front from the engine.

Start to lower the transmission jack. You might have to wiggle it a little, but it will come off from the engine.

Carefully lower the transmission jack. If you have a pre-facelift, watch for the transmission breather hose. It comes from the back of the transmission and goes up right behind the throttle body.

That's it, you've got the transmission out. Now you can rebuild it or replace it with a rebuilt unit.

Don't forget to send your torque converter out for a rebuild.


When you have your newly rebuilt transmission on the transmission jack, install the torque converter on the transmission.

Lubricate the TC shaft, put it on the main shaft, hold it by the pilot shaft and start to turn it.


This is very important, it has to go on the transmission all the way. 3 clicks. The first 2 clicks are the transmission shafts.

The last click is the TC shaft engaging with the transmission pump. I have to say it again. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT! If the pump is not engaged and you try to pull the transmission to the engine with the bell housing bolts, the TC will crush the transmission pump.

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Hi, I can't find how to take the battery cover off my 2005 dyanlow

I have not worked on any of the newer Dyna's but this is the way Harley usually does the Dyna battery trays. To get the battery out, first remove the seat. Now, look at the battery tray and on the left side is a bolt that screws into the frame and then one that screws upwards hold the battery tray. There is also a bolt on the right side that screws upwards into the frame. Take the bolt on the left out, loosen the bolt that screws horizonally into the frame but don't take it out. Now, lower the battery tray by loosening the bolt that screws upward into the frame on the left side of the battery. This bolt is a "jack bolt" and raises and lowers the battery tray. It might not be exactly like this but I'm pretty sure whatever Harley is using is similar to this.

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On the older model Dynas, there were two bolts between the battery and the rear fender. You had to loosen these two bolts as they hold the battery tray. Then you had to remove the seat and look down inside the frame just inside of the battery. There is a bolt head right there. This is a jack bolt. Turn the bolt counterclockwise to lower the battery tray, clockwise to raise it. This will release the battery top cover.

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two bolts on the side of the battery case which lower the box which holds the battery then the battery can be disconnected and removed

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How can i remove the battery cover off a 2004 harley fxdwg. i would like a video or a digram picture.

On most Wide Glides you have to remove the seat. Take the small screw out of the back end of the seat that holds it to the fender and lift the rear of the seat up and pull back. If you have a sissy bar on the bike, you may have to remove it as well to get the seat off.

Looking at the battery from the right side of the bike, you'll see two bolts on the frame on the left side of the battery. Loosen these two bolts, do not take them completely out, just loosen them.

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The battery is located beneath the washer fluid reservoir on the driver's side of the vehicle. Unfortunately, several parts have to be removed to access the battery. I first removed the three bolts securing the horizontal brace that extends from the area of the driver's side hood hinge to the frame in front of the radiator. Tape the bolts to the metal part to keep them from getting lost. Removing the brace will allow the white plastic washer fluid reservoir to be removed, but the black fuse box rests atop the end of this reservoir. The fuse box is secured to the automobile frame with two small pressed metal nuts remove these nuts to allow the fuse box to be slid off of the two metal studs on the frame. The fuse box will need to be shifted slightly to allow the plastic washer fluid reservoir to be removed. The reservoir is secured to the car frame by two bolts that engage the frame in front of the radiator. Remove these bolts and carefully lift the reservoir to reveal the small rubber hose extending from the base of the small black pump. Slide this hose off and tape it to something to keep it from falling out of sight. The wires to the small black pump will then need to be disconnected by pulling the gray plug away from the cylindrical pump. The reservoir can now be pulled away revealing the top of the battery. The battery is held in place by a wedge or clamp that holds down on an "ear" or "lip" of the battery. Removing this long bolt will allow this hold down clamp to be removed. The battery has side bolts or terminals that may prevent you from easily removing the battery because the negative post is so close to the plastic air intake nozzle. If you can't wiggle the battery out, you may have to remove this air intake and/or loosen the air filter box. I was able to replace my battery after I removed the two bolts holding down the air filter box. These two bolts are on either side of the air filter box at the bottom. With the loose air filter box, I was able to shift the air filter box just enough to allow me to remove the connections and the battery. Make sure to use the same number GM/Delco replacement battery, other brand(s) equivalent batteries did not fit within the nested area of the plastic washer reservoir,

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