Question about Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder Motorcycles

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I just rebuilt the carbs on a 1993 Suzuki VS1400 Intruder, and now I have no power to ignition switch. There is battery voltage to the starter relay and up to the igniter box, but nothing after that. I double checked all the connections and everything seems to be hooked properly. It was working before, and the Clymers manual I have has the wiring schematics misprinted in it. I need the right wiring diagram for the U.S. model. Please help me, it's driving me crazy. Thank you, Eric H.

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To get exact repair manual for your suzuki intruder .click the link below:-- http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/8975704-suzuki-vs1400-1987-2003-intruder-repair-manual- --------- Also for no power to the ignition switch.start checking the voltage from ignition switch itself.It can be faulty ignition switch or cracked /loose wire causing no power. Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Posted on Aug 03, 2010

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1 Answer

How to bypass the ignition switch on 2003 Suzuki intruder 1400 @


Hi, Ray for more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Oct 27, 2017 | 2003 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder

1 Answer

My 1400 intruder shut down on me going 65 mph...started right back up so I killed it and rode on into town with no problems...what happened.??


Hi, James and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery must have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
2. Faulty alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Faulty main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Faulty system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Faulty ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Faulty CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Fuel tank empty
11. Fuel tank contaminated with ethanol sludge.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, or clogged filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Faulty fuel pump.
15. Faulty pressure regulator.
16. Faulty or clogged fuel injectors.
17. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
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Aug 05, 2017 | 1995 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder

1 Answer

HOW TO BYPASS STARTER RELAY ON SUZUKI 1400


Hi, Robin for more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Jun 10, 2017 | Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder Motorcycles

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1995 SUZUKI 1400 INTRUDER STARTER DOES NOT ENGAGE ONLY BUZZING SOUND


Hi, Robin before testing any electrical component in the Starter System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
A motorcycle starter relay is an electronic mechanical switch that has a small coil winding around a piece of metal that requires low amperage and thin wires to be activated. When you turn on your ignition switch power 12 volts is sent to the relay coil which in turn becomes a magnetic contact point that pulls a spring-loaded contact point to itself completing an electrical circuit that allows more amperage necessary to be accessed by the starter solenoid which in turn acts in the same way as the relay but on a larger scale with its stronger heavier contacts making available the necessary amperage to turn the starter motor. If your battery has low voltage it, in turn, makes the magnetic contact point weak in trying to pull its counterpart to make a connection. These relays are usually encased in a plastic housing that may or may not be sealed depending on the quality of the product. When activated they will produce a small amount of heat to their metal components which in turn can create the perfect environment for condensation to form depending on weather conditions and how careless you may be with a water hose or sprayer while washing your bike. After a period of time, several months to several years depending on the circumstances this condensation is the starter button for electrolysis and the slow build up of corrosion which ends by preventing the magnetic contacts in making a solid connection and alerts you to this situation with the customary greeting "CLICK or BUZZING". The relay is inexpensive and needs to be replaced however in a pinch they can be forcibly opened cleaned and resealed with silicone. In a nutshell, motorcycle starter relays take in low amperage and send out higher amperage when activated and for curious minds, the voltage remains constant at whatever your battery reads at the time.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Jun 10, 2017 | 1995 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder

1 Answer

2001 Suzuki Intruder 1400 what is the voltage supposed to be from ignitor to the coils I have 10 volts going to both coils


Hi, Ghostrider suppose to have 12 volts and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
8. Faulty ignition switch.
9. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
10. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Jun 04, 2017 | 2001 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder

1 Answer

I want to bypass my ignition switch on my 1993 susuki 1400 intruder


Hi, Russell for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Apr 25, 2017 | 1993 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder

1 Answer

1997 Suzuki Intruder 1400 won't start


Hi, Mo and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, needs to be 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a "LOAD" test, your battery may show 12.5 volts but has little or zero amps and must be replaced.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand or clutch pull in switch/sensor.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid or starter circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
15. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Mar 29, 2017 | 1997 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder

1 Answer

Why does my fuel pump click When I hit the start button on my 1400 Suzuki Intruder


Hi, Ralph either low battery voltage or faulty fuel pump relay for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Feb 21, 2017 | 1995 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder

1 Answer

1993 800 suzuki intruder starter button wont work no clicking noise starter relay is new any suggestions


Check battery, check connections corrosion causes bad connection. Double check starter button switch, it may be bad. You may be able to verify this switch by "jumper" bypass of the switch..

Nov 30, 2013 | 1993 Suzuki VS 800 Intruder

1 Answer

1993 suzuki 1400 intruder starting problem


Hi, Dj you need a new mechanic or tell the old one to perform a "VOLTAGE DROP TEST" and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enrichner.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
14. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
15. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
16. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
17. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
18. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
19. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
20. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
21. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
22. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
23. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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May 30, 2017 | 1993 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder

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