Question about Honda Shadow 400 Motorcycles

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1981 Honda CM 400 E has no spark

1981 honda cm 400 E no spark, was running then just quit and will not start checked for spark by removing plugs no spark then some but very little have new battery can you help me @

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  • Honda Master
  • 49,433 Answers

Hi, Garryrrobert and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Faulty run/off switch
11. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
12. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
1981 cm400 no spark
1981 honda cm400c no spark update
Honda CB400T Shop Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
http://davidfish.info/Honda/1981_CM400E_Manual.pdf

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Posted on Feb 15, 2018

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 126 Answers

SOURCE: honda cbr 400 rr starting problem

i could not find a schematic of a 96 cbr400rr, so guessing this bike is not from the USA. however, there should be a master fuse near the battery on the positive side mounted to the battery box somewhere. i would check this fuse first to see if its burned out.

also, is battery fully charged? might have to top charge the battery to get good juice if its old (>3 years) and been sitting for a bit.

good luck.

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: My 2004 Honda Shadow will not start. I have

I would get a test light and check if i had power to my coil and to my cdi module .You more than likely lost powerto one of them .those cdi last for every. check your switch make sure you got power there to. Hope this help

Posted on Feb 22, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: Honda with no spark

Check the fuses. Next, check for spark but with a new spark plugs. How good is the battery? Try a jump from your car battery. Is the kill switch on? Does the side stand have a kill switch? Is it working properly? Check the operation of the ignition switch and all kill switches with a volt ohmmeter. Be sure you have power coming out of the switch.

Check the wiring harness. Did a wire come unplugged? Are all wires clean and with solid connections? Any abraded or pinched wires? Is the bike in neutral and the neutral light is lit up? If no neutral light, check the neutral switch and neutral switch wire on center casing. If still no spark, get CDI system and coils checked at the dealers shop.

Please rate this answer. Thanks Dan!

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

bozcro
  • 867 Answers

SOURCE: 1981 honda goldwing wont start

while trying to start an engine, and only the solenoid clicks, there are these 3 things- no juice from the battery, starter corroded contacts(the big cables) or starter is shot. so first make sure the battery is charged, next make sure the cable mounts from battery to starter are clean(no rust), if that is all good and doesnt start , remove starter and have it tested.

Posted on Jul 02, 2009

bill_48632
  • 149 Answers

SOURCE: 1975 Honda CB 400 F Spark plug info

Hi, your plug number for an NGK plug is D8ESL As far as the plug socket size it is a 13/16 deep well socket. The gap should be set at .07-.08mm.

Posted on Aug 23, 2009

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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
11. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1. FUEL: in order to validate your not getting fuel spray some starting fluid into the air cleaner and hit the starter button, if it fires up and runs for a few seconds then you know you have a fuel delivery issue. Multi carb banks should be bench "SYNC"
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For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Mario67 and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
11. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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http://www.guside.com/honda-cm-125-service-manual.pdf
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e



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Hi, Martin you need "FIVE" things in order for a cylinder to run properly:
1. FUEL: in order to validate your not getting fuel spray some starting fluid into the air cleaner and hit the starter button, if it fires up and runs for a few seconds then you know you have a fuel delivery issue. Multi carb banks should be bench "SYNC"
2. SPARK: remove the spark plug and with it connected to the spark plug cable ground the threads to something metal you should see a bluish white spark if not you have a faulty spark plug, spark plug cable, ignition coil, condenser, CKP, ECM, sensor or the wiring in between.
3. COMPRESSION: you must have at least 80-100 PSI for most bikes, multi-cylinder engines should be within 10-15% of each other if not perform a leak down test you may have a burnt or bent valve or hole in the piston or broken rings.
4. CAM TIMING: confirm your timing marks are aligned to see if the cam chain or adjuster are worn out and the chain has skipped a couple teeth.
5. IGNITION TIMING: on older bikes check to see if your points have not closed up, timing plate has not become loose and confirm with a timing light for proper retard and advance functions, on newer bikes where timing is controlled by an ECM and is nonadjustable check you CKP, TPS, MAP, O2, sensor or its counterpart for integrity.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

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