Question about 2001 kawasaki VN 750 Vulcan

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A friend of mine has a 2001 kawasaki vn750 vulcan. Having problems with the charging system. He has put a new battery, and voltage regulator in the unit. They told him the stator is the problem. To get to the stator the motor has to come off the bike. And would cost 600.00 just to get the motor off. Or they could cut the frame to get to the stator. and weld the frame back when they were done. Is this true? Is there a better way to change the stator? Thank you Wayne

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Yes to remove the stator on the vulcan, the engine must be taken off the frame. BUT.... You can mod it so that you don't have to

Posted on Jun 10, 2017


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: stator

Behind the left engine cover. The engine must be almost completely removed to change it out.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 2336 Answers

SOURCE: gas tank

I'm pretty sure it does. I own a 1995 Vulcan and I bought a 2003 tank and looked at the mounting brackets and fuel connections all looked to be the same - but don't put this in stone. I haven't been able to put it on yet because it's still out being painted. There should be no difference in the fuel tank mounts from 1996-1005, but as always, check with a professional if this information is critical.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

cape cod bob
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SOURCE: spark plug gage setting for 1999 kawasaki vulcan

pdf manual here

Posted on Apr 02, 2009

  • 125 Answers

SOURCE: noise in engine from lifters not all the time

Leave it alone. It's just old age, happens to all of us.

Posted on Jun 15, 2009

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SOURCE: 2001 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Soft front forks. What

Add oil or air if air equiped.

Posted on Sep 22, 2009

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1988 Kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan not charging

Hi, Wally before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing and printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
help 1500 not charging battery and other electrical issues
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki

Jul 29, 2017 | 1996 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic

1 Answer

Kawasaki Vulcan 500-26,000, rotor and stator. Batty It is not quite chargeing has to be changed every wk to 10 days itis1991kawa.Vulcan 500

The battery charge voltage should be about 13.5-15.5 volts dc when speed is about 2000-2500 rpm. The rectifier and/or voltage regulator could be bad or the motorcycle could have a wiring issue such as an intermittent connection/short etc.

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1990 vulcan 750 ccharging system not working

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Vulcan 750 1992 wont start after when i just turned it off.

Forget the other answers is a link to kawasaki vulcan riders club where some real bikers n experts to guide ya through buty I also added few links to free repair manual tons of links for other bike stuff if ya need...

the one below has loads of manuals for everything ya can think of inc bikes=

finally lots of vn parts are cross compatible and this site does a nifty bit of kit that finds part numbers and then sees if its used on other isnt free but might as well be...saved me a packet at breakers=

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I do have a thick leather waistcoat full of vulcan riders patches, badges, rally badges etc with extenders on but not enough to make it fit again if ya want it...m

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Download manual 1985 kawasaki vulcan 700

This link is for the Vn750 other than the 700 being smaller cc's everything is the same service specs.
free download.

Oct 27, 2012 | Motorcycles

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Im trying to put my carbs back in my 2001 Kawasaki VN750 Vulcan (american non-california model) but the carbs wont line up. I need to know how the carb to cylinder boots need to be positioned in order for...

Hi Redneckbi263, I am sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki but despair not for a mere $15.00 you can download another one. For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Jan 06, 2011 | 2001 kawasaki VN 750 Vulcan

1 Answer


If you are getting 13volt output and it revs and gets 14.5volts it would appear to be charging. As you would get a drop in voltage if it were not. Stator is there for working. Check your voltage relay as it may be sticking which would cause it to run on system and not be sending charge to battery. Poor ground would also keep battery from being properly charged

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I just bought a 1986 vn750 with 17k on it, and its battery which is pretty new the previous made me believe has to be charged on a daily bases when not in operation in order for it start up in the morning...

u may have a failing battery-test it and chec electric wireing for corrosion etc mite want to test alternator also -that charges the batt engine may be gittin to hot indicating an unkept or southbound cooling system

Aug 09, 2009 | 1992 kawasaki VN 750 Vulcan

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John Deere 185 Hydro won't stay charged

I had the same problem on my lx176. Check all your connections first. If they are all ok and fuse and fuse link are ok, unplug your magneto connector. Mine is a 2 prong plug by the dipstick tube. Connect a voltmeter to the engine side of the magneto and set it to AC VOLTAGE SETTING.. With the engine running I think I remember it should be putting out about 30 volts AC. If you have close to this voltage there it is probably your voltage regulator. Mine was. Hope this helps

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