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This question concerns rebuilding the rear brake caliper on a '92 ZX-11 C-3. The two-pot rear caliper requires four o-ring seals (two per pot) according to the parts fiche and the Kawasaki shop manuals. However, the shop manual is not clear about _where_ the seals go. Each pot-cylinder has only one groove (!?) There is a radius'ed step at the opening of the caliper and one groove below it. The radius'ed step at the open end of the caliper pot does not have a lip to prevent a seal from being pushed out when the piston extends during braking. Here is a link to the image of the rear brake parts fiche: Notice that the seals are between the caliper body and the pistons in this exploded view. The shop manual shows nearly the same thing and has little lines from the seals that lead into the caliper bores. There is no dust boot. In the fiche image it _appears_ that there are two grooves for two seals but the outer one is like a dust boot lip. Here is a link to the image of the front brake parts fiche which shows the little lines indicating that the seals go in the caliper bores: In short, what is the correct way to install the four seals in the two-pot real caliper on a '92 ZX11 C-3? Thanks in advance! Harold Sims San Antonio, Texas

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I've only dismantled a '96 600 brakes but they looked almost the same as these exploded views. For each piston there are 2 seals. If you look at the seal you will see that they are asymmetrical - looking something like the letter G is cross section. To install them you put the bottom one with the channel down in the groove and the second one with the channel up on the lip - it's there to act mainly as a dust boot, the first one is the actual oil seal.

Posted on Aug 02, 2010


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I rebuilt the rear brake caliper on my Harley 2004 Dyna low rider and it still will not return causing the brakes to heat up. I've bled the brakes three or four times. After rebuild.

I am not familiar with the model or the design of the caliper but I have a few thoughts, assuming it is a hydraulic system.

There have been a few cases where a caliper has been a hybrid construction using an iron caliper frame and aluminium cylinder(s). Corrosion tended to build up in the joint between the components and cause the cylinders to be squashed into an oval shape so the piston would still bind even when everything appeared visually perfect and tested together without seals and dust cover...

It is important no residual pressure is present in the hydraulic line that will keep the brake pads in contact with the disc. If the brake releases when the bleed nipple is opened the problem is residual pressure, probably due to the master cylinder not returning fully.

Some hydraulic caliper seals are square section and can be fitted either way around into a thoroughly cleaned groove. Other seals are wedge-shaped and must be fitted the correct way around. The wedge is typically very slight and not immediately obvious.

As the piston is pushed out under hydraulic pressure, it distorts the seal. When the pressure is removed the seal regains the original shape and as it does so it pulls back the piston approx 2/3 thou. The main hydraulic seal is the piston return spring which should be quite adequate if the disc is in good order and the pads are free to move easily in the carrier.

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Hi Terry,
Please check out this Link :
Here you will find the details regarding your Car and how you can check and repair the breaks without taking it to a mechanic.
I hope this helps.....

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1998 Honda Deauville NTV 650 brake caliper sticking @

Hi, B68hobo and the usual suspects are:
1. Caliper, bracket, wheel, or brake disc not properly spaced.
2. Contaminated caliper causing the piston to stick.
3. Wrong type of brake fluid causing seals and o-rings to swell.
4. Wrong brake pads for the caliper.
5. Improper free play on the master cylinder.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Deauville Brake Pads Part 2 mp4
How to Clean Repair and Rebuild Motorcycle Brake Calipers
1988 1997 Honda NTV650 Service Repair Workshop Manual DOWNLO Download... $15
Honda NTV650 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at

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Installing rear brake caliper rebuild kit.

To remove piston safely use the brake pedal to press out piston. You will need to remove the pads so it can do this. You will need a container to catch the fluid when the piston comes out. Clean the the piston with a fine polishing cloth 600 grit or higher so as not to leave scratches, replace piston if it pitted or burred. Clean inside of caliper, remove inside seal with dental type tool. Roll in the new seal, position same as old one. install new outter dust boot if equipped with one. Lubricate seal and leading edge of piston with brake fluid. Slide piston into calipier. You will need to make sure it is started straight and then use a C-clamp to compress the piston all the way in. Never ever use any oils or grease any any internal brake parts because it will cause seal failure. Clean parts are critical, but again , no petroleum products. Good luck

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1 Answer

Kawasaki zx 400 have two seized pistons on rear caliper, are these pistons removeable, what is then inside!! freddie

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Brake caliper release on 92 BMW 318i e36

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1 Answer

How do i replace the front caliper seal on 06 malibu maxx??????

while the seals in the calipers are replaceable, its probably easier just to get a new/re manufactured caliper. if for any reason the seals don't work perfectly you could lose control of the vehicle when attempting to stop. with that said i'll try to explain the best i can how to replace the seals in the calipers for that vehicle.

1. jack up the front of the vehicle, place on jackstands and remove the front wheels, make sure the parking brake is on
2. unbolt the caliper and unbolt the brake line from the caliper and take caliper to a clean bench
3. remove the dust boot retaining ring on the caliper that holds the boot to the caliper itself
4. using a blowgun with a rubber tip apply low pressure compressed air where the brake line was bolted to the caliper to push the piston out of the bore (be carefull and ready because the piston may shoot out with some force)
5. when the piston comes out you will need to replace the dust boot and the seal so remove the boot and seal carefully so you don't scratch the piston ( the seal is actually in the caliper piston bore hole)and throw out the old seal and boot.
6. inspect all the surfaces and make sure there are no imperfections at all on the piston, the piston bore, or the caliper, if the surfaces are marred in anyway, replace the caliper, if they are good, using brake cleen and compressed air clean all parts then dry them
7. get the new seal and lubricate with DOT 3 brake fluid
8. install new seal into the caliper bore
9. apply a thin coat of DOT 3 brake fluid to the piston itself
10. install bottom half the the caliper piston into the caliper bore.
11. install new dust boot seal onto the piston
12. compress the piston to the bottom of the caliper bore
13. fully seat the dust boot seal into the caliper and install retaining ring
14. reinstall on vehicle (make sure to use a NEW copper washer on the brake line to caliper fitting) and bleed the braking system while checking for leaks.

repeat process for the other side.

if the caliper leaks at all from the piston after seal replacement, replace the caliper.

make sure you properly bleed the brakes before attempting to drive your car.

*these direction were extracted from personal experience and manufacturer information*

any other questions just ask!

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