Question about 2002 Yamaha YZ 426 F
Hi, Kmennes only timing and compression are left and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enricher.
5. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched or kinked.
8. Carburetor float stuck.
9. Fuel injectors clogged.
10. Severely discharged or damaged battery, you need 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
11. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
12. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
13. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or sensors (MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC,or BAS).
14. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
15. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
16. Faulty CDI box if applicable.
17. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
18. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
YZ426f WON START YZ 400 426 450
01 YZ 426 won start cry
Yamaha YZ426F Owner Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
Yamaha YZ450F Owner Manual Page 3
Posted on Aug 08, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: yamaha yz125 wont start...
hello there guys, listen a top tip is when the engine's cold tip the bike almost right on its side nearly touching the floof, wait for the petrol to poor out of the carb over flow pipe, this should take a matter of a few seconds, stand the bike back up again and kick and that baby should start right up, if it does then you have a problem with your float, if it still doesn,t then take it to a shop and get them to check it out, hope this helps. regards sam
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
SOURCE: 1989 tw200 yamaha won't start
G'day egdbcs . Ok.now lets see.You say good spark,so i'm presuming you are doing the old sight test.Try bending the arm on a know good sparkplug about 5-6mm,earth the plug and kick'er in the guts(crank it over)Be very carefull , high voltage danger.If there's still a good spark it's safe to say that there will also be a good spark under pressure in the combustion chamber,speaking of which you should also do a compression test,anything over 100psi should be ok. as i'm not to sure of the extent of the re-build,hopefully the valves were lapped and checked for straight and true and valve seals replaced,if you notice oil on the tip of the spark plug you could have a leaking valve seal or oil seal .Try putting a small amount of fuel directly into the combustion chamber ,tighten up the spark plug ,install the plug cap and.......Yeah ..You guessed it ..."kicker in the guts".If all the abouve are correct and true it should fire up.If it runs for 5-10 seconds then stops you've got some sort of fuel starvation problem , could be dirt in the carb,blocked idle jet ,or air passage or even the needle could have come off it's clip,believe me with an old bike like yours anything could be worn and loose inside that carby.The only other thing to consider is the timing.There may be a good spark but is it happening at the right time inside the engine???. I'll leave it all in your capable hands EGDBCS.Hope this helps to solving your worries. Chow for now......Tilleydog..
Posted on Jun 03, 2009
If your jetting is too rich it will be extremely hard to kick start it and will most likely flood it from kicking.First thing i would do is pull the top of the carbs off (cable,slides and needles) and see which clip they're set at. If they are set stock which would be middle clip then lower the needle one clip. This will lean the mix out and should start up easier with no problems,The idle issue is most likely just off.If your fiance still has the TORS on it then on top of the carbs he will see 2 dime size and screws and wires as soon as he takes his seat off.While running he can turn each dime size screw in or out to adjust the idle. If it has a TORS elimator kit on it then he won't have all the junk on top of the carbs and it will be just a cable and round cap screwed directly on top of the carbs and the idle screws will be on the side of each carb (brass color screws with nuts to tighten) same thing...in or out to adjust the idle where needed.Hope this helps.
Posted on Jun 08, 2009
The cylinder is the coil. It might be bad but it is expensive and you would not replace it till you know for sure there is no spark. You can take the plug out and then put it on the wire and ground it against the engine while a friend cranks the starter. Look for the spark flash. Make sure the kill switch is in the "on" position.
If that shows a spark then you will need to move into a different line of troubleshooting. I always recommend that people buy a Clymer manual.
Posted on Jul 31, 2009
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