Question about 2000 Ducati 750 SS i.e. N-C
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Fuel tank and pump advice needed UK Monster Owners Club Forum
1999 M900 No Fuel Pump Installed
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Posted on Feb 04, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I have the connection shematics.
I'll try to explain, if needed send me your mail address, I'll send you a drawing.
First, the elements and their amount:
- 1 rollover valve, 2 straight connections.
- 1 Canister, 2 connections at the top, 1 outlet at the bottom
- 2 5-way connectors
- 4 Vacuum control valves, 2 connections at the top, 1 at the bottom
- 1 fuel tank, 3 connections, 1 is the surge hose connection, 2 others on the fuel ****: 1 fuel hose, 1 vacuum hose
- 4 carburettors: Seen from the back: 1 fuel inlet on a common ramp at the back, 1 vacuum connection between the two center carbs, 2 ventilation hoses at the outside of both center carbs, 4 purge hoses, 1 on the air filter side of each carb ( at the center of each external carbs ), 1 connector on the most left carb at the front bottom.
Now, the connections:
- 1 hose from the fuel tank surge hose connection to the roll-over valve, air must go from the tank trough the roll-over valve
- 1 hose from the roll over valve to the center upper connection of the canister.
- 1 hose from the second upper outlet of the canister to a 5-way connector.
- The third connection of the canister must stay free ( fresh air inlet )
- 4 hoses from this 5 way connector, 1 hose to each vacuum control valve at the upper 'side' connection
- 1 hose from each upper center connection of each vacuum control valve to each carburettor purge connections.
- The bottom connections of each vacuum control valve must be connected to the other 5-way connector.
- The main gallery of this 5-way connector must then be connected to the bottom front connection on the left carb.
I hope you've understood the explanation and you are helped.
The 1989 model is different ( it has a canister with 4 connections and only 2 control valves )
Posted on Apr 02, 2009
Strip and clean carbs, I had the same problem and that's how I fixed it. Take the carb to bits then soak all the bits in clean petrol (or prpsi believe it or not) for 1/2 an hour.
Posted on Jun 18, 2009
Here is a parts manual which will be of some use... http://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?fileid=068117099097116105095077055053048032068097114107032080097114116115032050048048048046112100102
You will need....
10mm allen socket - For the oil drain plug. You can take the plug out with an allen wrench (hex key) but you'll need the socket to properly torque it back into place.
21mm socket - To remove the oils screen. Again, a wrench would work here, but you'll need to torque it later anyway.
Some kind of filter wrench - This will depend on your bike and the filter to be removed. (We'll look into the details later)
A container to drain the oil into - I use one of the flat oil change containers with the wide, flat funnel that screws into the side.
Oil - About 4 quarts. This varies a bit by model and displacement, but 4 quarts should be the max.
Oil drain plug crush washer
Oil screen crush washer - A Ducati dealership once tried to convince me that these were the same. It made me think that they had never changed the oil before either...
Tech sheet... http://www.ducati.com/bikes/tech.jhtml
And the manual is here...
Hope this proves useful..if so please rate me.
Posted on Jul 17, 2009
Your fuel pump is vacuum operated, I would look for a crack in the rubber somewhere. Also, the side stand, the bike will start with it down, but will shut off the second you put it in gear. I have a 2002 S4.
Posted on Feb 15, 2010
Testimonial: "sidest. switch OK. Short wiring pump doesn't make it run! Emptied tank, found a loose part with o-ring seal on the bottom. Dealer tomorrow "
Try having the valve clearances checked and adjusted. As the engine gets hot, the clearances tend to close up and the engine begins to lose compression making it hard to keep running. Hope this helps!
Posted on Feb 16, 2010
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