Question about 2006 Suzuki GSF 1200 Bandit

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Should I be getting a reading, of 12.78 DC Current when the engine is not running and 14.5 DC current when the engine is running, when I test for voltage between the + terminal on the battery and anywhere on the frame or the handle bars of my motorbike? I am getting shocks from my bike whilst I?m on it.

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Those readings sound fairly good for the battery and (when running) the charging system but im surprised if youre getting shocks from those dc voltages. check ht leads from coils for possible current conduction which may be causing the problem you have. also check all earth connections and consider fitting ground earthing strap similar to those used on cars

Posted on Jul 31, 2010

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How do I check electrical charging system on B&S 25 hp Vanguard engine

You need a volt /ohm meter to do almost any electrical testing, cheap one is fine, mine was free at Harbor Freight. Start with the easiest test, put the test meter on DC ,touch your leads to the battery terminals ,should be above 12 volt, next start tractor run full throttle should be between 13 and 14 volts and changes a little all the time. If this test is good suspect the battery is sulfated and needing replaced. If that test failed go to the two wires coming from under the flywheel, unplug them from the harness, put your voltmeter on AC, start the tractor, run full throttle , touch your leads to the two wires , should read 28 volt and up, if not shut off tractor, put meter on OHMs and touch wires again you should have a reading because it is one insulated wire that goes in and is wound around many stand offs and back out and no reading would mean the wire is broken somewhere, next touch just one wire and the engine block with the other lead from the meter, it should not have a reading,do the same on the second wire ,if you have a reading it shows your insulation on that wire has melted somewhere and is shorting out.If your ohm test where good but no output remove the flywheel and check the magnets as they might have come unglued and slid around and are touching each other, put them back with JB Weld , DO NOT mix them up, do it one at a time, they are placed in there in a north and south pattern. The only thing left is the Regulator/Rectifier, this converts AC current to DC current and regulates it to the 13 to 14 DC volts.

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1 Answer

How to check charging system

You will need a volt meter, a cheap one is fine, mine was free at a parking lot sale. Set the volt meter to DC Volt, if it gives you choices pick 20 volt. Hook it to the battery see what your readings are should be some where around 11.5 to 12.3, now start the engine ,run at high RPM . Did the voltage go up ? If it went down it is not charging, It should have went up to 13.8 and as high as 15 volt , this settles back down to 13.8 as the battery charges up. Did your rectifier have three in a row flat spades ? If so unplug the three wire plastic holder, the two outside wires on this plug are from under the flywheel, ATTENTION this current will be AC not DC current so set you volt meter to AC ,engine running fast, ground your meter to the engine and check for voltage on the two outside wires on the plug,one at a time, should be 18 volt AC or around on each wire, if so your stator is working . The center wire on the plug is DC . When plugged into the rectifier the two AC currents go through diodes which change it back to DC current and also there is a regulator inside the rectifier that controls the amount of DC Voltage. So follow the middle wire and test it ,I think it goes to the charging meter on dash .

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2001 Ford expedition Location AND # of alternator field fuse and alternator mega fuse and any other fuse and relay that has to do with the charging system. Thank you!

Lisa I'M sorry to say their isn't any fuse or fuses that can correct problems with our alterator.Their is what is called a fuseable line witch is basicaly reistance wire that will burn out if over loaded .However you would have nothing even with a new battery NO CRANKING.
The ALT .uses diodes it is AC alternating currant unlike DC direct current..The diodes olny allow the currant to flow in 1 derection and uses a voltage regulator to allow the systems that are DC the battery to charge and at the same time other systems that run on AC voltage to work as well .
Your best bet is to talk it to somebody who you trust and test what you get at the battery with the vehicle running if it reads 14 volts at the top of the battery DC then the ALT IS GOOD , Check the BAT , at this point with the NEGITIVE cable off the BAT. It should read at least 12 volts DC on a 20 volt Dc scale.
But likely it is the alternator

Feb 26, 2015 | 2001 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

Bosch 1197311213 EL14V, how can I test to determine that my alternator voltage regulator is still good or bad?

if the charge light is going out after starting then it is charging. Next step is to use a multimeter that has the ability to read volts DC and volts AC. If it shows Volts dc 13.5 to 14.5 volts at around 2.000rpms then it is good . If it shows volts ac then the rectifier in the alternator is not working and needs replacing . Next place an amp meter in the line to the battery and read the amperage .It will read in a ratio to the volts DC so if the volts Dc is up around 14.5 then the current flow will be low but if it reads 12 volts then the current will be high. If the volts dc is over 14.5 volts say 16 volts then the current will be high as the regulator is not controlling the current out put. If this sound daunting then go to an accredited auto electrical shop and have it checked out

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1 Answer

I am installinga 4548 inverter. At 4500 watts, it puts out approximately 20 amp per phase. My generater that will feed the charging current for the batteries will put outapproximately 28 amps. Is the...

Let just wait a minute. You have an inverter that is rated at 4500 watts. This spooky. The inverter has a three phase input/three phase output? What is the inverter going to be used for?

Next question. What type of batteries are you using and what is the voltage/current in series or parallel? What will be the total voltage you will producing with the batteries? What is the total current of the batteries.

Another question? What is the voltage of the 28 amps? If it going to dump 28 amps across some batteries that rated at 12 volts and 1400 amp/hrs. For 12 volt batteries with a total of 1400 amps. What you will need approx 14 to 14 1/2 DC and with 28 amps across the batteries for charging these batteries. The batteries will be gone in about 1 hour. Boil all the water out of them. When a battery starts to boil it release water with hydrogen gas (the gas is very explosive and dangerous).

You also don't have a regulation circuit to limit the amount of current depending on the needs of the batteries. Also, you don't have a trickle charger to keep the batteries fully charge when the batteries are idle.

You will also need DC regulated charger that will keep the voltage 2-4 volts above you battery voltage. Without this voltage above the batteries voltage it will not charge those batters. Batteries need to forced to except a charge that why voltage above the source voltage. If you can check the voltage on your car/truck with a 12 volt system. While engine is running the voltage across the battery will be 13.8 to 14.1 volts. Now, the current limiter is the alternator it has a regulator built into it for stabiizing voltage and current went the batteries require more current but it limited by alternator regulator
Now, to get more current out of the alternator the regulator will supply dc voltage to the stator of the alternator generator more current. More dc voltage is supplied by the regulator but the dc voltages is limit to about 24 volts. Another limiting factor is the alternator copper windings diameter---larger diameter more current, small diameter less current. Utilities systems use big mega watts generators. The maxi um dc voltage for these three phase generator would like 500 to 800dc volts for peak to peak output. There is a simpler way of doing this.

You need to rethink everything here. Also, I can help you if you supply the needed information.
I truly wish you luck in your electrical endeavors. GB you. stewbison

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1 Answer

Battery keeps losing charge and truck is completely dead. Alternator tested good. Headlights go from bright to regular and then the truck completely dies and battery is dead.

Any altenator can test good and it can be bad
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Get the engine running first of all
Set the volt meter to the AC mode instead of the DC mode.
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Connect the negative probe to the positive side of the battery

If you receive the same volt reading as you did in the DC test as before the Diode inside the alternator is blown
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When a diode goes bad the current will reverse which causes the AC mode to kick in. The battery will olny charge in the DC mode only

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How do iknow if my voltage regulator is bad on my 1993 yamaha fzr 600

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2 Answers

Battery will not charge

To check your charging system, first, you must have a fully charged battery in the bike. Start the bike up and using a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) put the red lead on the positive post and the black lead on the negative post. Put the meter in DC Volts, 50 volt range. Idle the bike up a bit and you should read about 14.5 to 14.8 volts.

If you don't get anymore than 12.6 volts at the battery. Go to the left side of the engine and pull the connector for the stator at the front of the engine. Put your meter in AC volts, 50 volt range. Touch one meter lead to one pin and the other to the other pin. It makes no difference which lead goes where just don't allow the lead to touch the engine case. Your meter should read 25-35 Volts AC at this point. Notice the AC, not DC, voltage at the stator. Make sure your meter is in DC at the battery test and AC at the stator test. If you have less than 15 volts at the stator, your stator is bad. If the voltage is where it should be at the stator, you voltage regulator is probably bad.

Good Luck

May 29, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage...

2 Answers

I have the 02 vfr800 and it keep killing batteries. i think the alternator is dying but others tell me it might be the rectifier regulator. does anyone have a way of testing either or both devices so i...

hi this might help,normally if the alternator/generater fails you will get no charge voltage at all,if your bike is fitted with an alternator(most later honda models are)then you will have a rectifier and regulator,the rectifier converts the ac voltage from the alternator to dc voltage which is then fed through the regulator and then onto the battery,if the bike is fitted with a generator then you will still have a regulator but no rectifier,a generator develops dc voltage at its source so a rectifier is not needed,a simple way to test the system is with a simple digital volt meter,these are very cheap and reliable and can be got for around 20 bucks,with the engine running at about 1500 -2000rpm test the voltage across the battery with the meter normall voltage at charge should be between 13.8 and 14.8 volts,if you are getting more that this then the regulator is faulty,another way to test the regulator is to slowly lift the engine rpm from idle through to about 3 or 4000rpm the voltage across the battery should not rise any higher than about 14.2-14.8 and it should reach its peak at about 2-2500rpm and not fluctuate more than about 1 volt across the rev range,if the voltage exceeds about 14.8 or fluctuates excessively with engine revs then the regulator needs to be replaced.hope this helps...cheers ian

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1 Answer

The battery light came on and the battery was replaced. The alternator was also checked and determined to be ok. Now the battery light comes on and the slternator shows as charging at about 14-15 Volts any...

check the battery with a volt meter. Place the probes from the meter inverted which means positive from the meter to negative on the battery and negative from the meter to the positive one the battery. MAKE SURE YOU STE THE METER TO THE DC & NOT TO THE AC MODE BEFORE YOU TURN THE METER ON. Now start the engine and see if a reading shows of 14 - 15 volts. If so the diode is bad in the altenator. The diode suppose to keep the current running only one way. If the current is running both directions the altenator does not charge the battery completely and the battery light will come on this way also

Jan 31, 2010 | 1997 Jaguar XJ6

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