I can't quite tell what your problem is.
It sounds like you are saying the bike is heating.
But I don't know if you mean from friction of something rubbing, or if you mean you have a short and the wiring is melting?
Either is quite possible.
Here is a good example of how to change a Suzuki stator.
But the rectifier diodes must also be in good shape first.
You can check them with an ohmmeter, to see that current only passes one way and not the other.
http://www.cycleorings.com/GS850stator.pdf
THE BIKE IS HEATHING NOT THE WIRE AND WHEN IS ON IDLE HE RAVE WHITOUT I TOUCH THE GAS
Ok, it seems to me you are saying that after you changed the stator, the engine started heating up and reving up all by itself.
The stator could not do that, so you must have somehow changed the throttle linkage or something?
An intake manifold leak can also cause heating and increased engine speed.
Take the air cleaner off and check if the butterfly in the carb is closing all the way.
Listen around the intake manifold for air leaks hissing.
Use a piece of rubber tubing to listen through.
is it possibble beacause off that the engine is heathing
I am still confused and would like more information?
Do you mean the engine is heaving, as in going up and down in speed?
Because that would still point to an intake manifold leak.
Ok, I am not the best at 2 strokes engines, and I don't even know if the Suzuke DR-Z 400 SE is 2 stroke or 4 stroke.
But with a 2 stroke engine, any leak in the crankcase can let air and fuel into the cylinders, and make the engine rev up.
So I would assume there is a chance you had trouble getting the stator wires into the holes in the rubber plug that goes into the stator casing.
And you either cut the rubber or somehow changed how it seals.
And now it is leaking.
I believe you need to make sure there is no air leak in the case, where the stator wires come out.
With a 4 stroke engine, I don't think a crankcase leak should make any difference.
I don't really know, but I don't believe there is a PVC valve on a motorcycle, that could act like an intake manifold leak when there is a crankcase leak.
So I can't think of much else.
I would have to go back to the idea of checking the throttle linkage and butterfly to make sure they are free and closing as far as they should.
I am not sure, but it seems to me that with an air cooled engine, it would not be good to rev the engine for a long time while the bike is still.
When the bike is still there is not enough air moving.
The bike needs moving air in order to cool off.
So when still, it is important to not rev the engine.
Or maybe use a large fan pointed at the engine?
I know that when they put a bike on a dynameter, they use large fans to keep it from overheating.
The other things I know of that can cause any engine to overheat, are retarded timing, and poor mixture.
If the spark timing is way too retarded (late), then the piston will already be on the way down.
That means the compression won't be high enough to make the concussion fast.
So instead there is a slow burn of the fuel instead of a fast explosion.
This reduces power and greatly increases the heat.
But low compression from badly adjusted or leaking valves can do this as well.
Check the ignition timing and do a compression test.
Timing should be before top dead center (TDC) by a few degrees at least, and compression should be over 100 psi. ( you remove spark plug and replace with pressure gauge)
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thanks
yeah the egine goes up and down and the manifold turn red
ok thank you for your answer by the way its a 4 stroke
i check the carb and the butterfly not closing enough so i adjust it wath i want to know is it because of that the bike heat cause i dont see any leak in the manifold or somewhere else sorry for my english im not very good
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