Question about 2001 Suzuki DR-Z 400 SE

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HELLO HI CHANGE THE STATOR ON MY BIKE AND WHEN I START IT THE BIKE IS HEATHING

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  • marty_1979li Jul 29, 2010

    thanks

  • marty_1979li Jul 29, 2010

    yeah the egine goes up and down and the manifold turn red

  • marty_1979li Jul 30, 2010

    ok thank you for your answer by the way its a 4 stroke

  • marty_1979li Aug 02, 2010

    i check the carb and the butterfly not closing enough so i adjust it wath i want to know is it because of that the bike heat cause i dont see any leak in the manifold or somewhere else sorry for my english im not very good

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  • Suzuki Master
  • 2,019 Answers

I can't quite tell what your problem is.
It sounds like you are saying the bike is heating.
But I don't know if you mean from friction of something rubbing, or if you mean you have a short and the wiring is melting?
Either is quite possible.
Here is a good example of how to change a Suzuki stator.
But the rectifier diodes must also be in good shape first.
You can check them with an ohmmeter, to see that current only passes one way and not the other.

http://www.cycleorings.com/GS850stator.pdf

Posted on Jul 28, 2010

  • 6 more comments 
  • marty_1979li Jul 28, 2010

    THE BIKE IS HEATHING NOT THE WIRE AND WHEN IS ON IDLE HE RAVE WHITOUT I TOUCH THE GAS

  • Kirk Augustin
    Kirk Augustin Jul 29, 2010

    Ok, it seems to me you are saying that after you changed the stator, the engine started heating up and reving up all by itself.
    The stator could not do that, so you must have somehow changed the throttle linkage or something?
    An intake manifold leak can also cause heating and increased engine speed.
    Take the air cleaner off and check if the butterfly in the carb is closing all the way.
    Listen around the intake manifold for air leaks hissing.
    Use a piece of rubber tubing to listen through.


  • marty_1979li Jul 29, 2010

    is it possibble beacause off that the engine is heathing

  • Kirk Augustin
    Kirk Augustin Jul 29, 2010

    I am still confused and would like more information?
    Do you mean the engine is heaving, as in going up and down in speed?
    Because that would still point to an intake manifold leak.


  • Kirk Augustin
    Kirk Augustin Jul 30, 2010

    Ok, I am not the best at 2 strokes engines, and I don't even know if the Suzuke DR-Z 400 SE is 2 stroke or 4 stroke.
    But with a 2 stroke engine, any leak in the crankcase can let air and fuel into the cylinders, and make the engine rev up.
    So I would assume there is a chance you had trouble getting the stator wires into the holes in the rubber plug that goes into the stator casing.
    And you either cut the rubber or somehow changed how it seals.
    And now it is leaking.
    I believe you need to make sure there is no air leak in the case, where the stator wires come out.


  • Kirk Augustin
    Kirk Augustin Jul 30, 2010

    With a 4 stroke engine, I don't think a crankcase leak should make any difference.
    I don't really know, but I don't believe there is a PVC valve on a motorcycle, that could act like an intake manifold leak when there is a crankcase leak.
    So I can't think of much else.

    I would have to go back to the idea of checking the throttle linkage and butterfly to make sure they are free and closing as far as they should.


  • Kirk Augustin
    Kirk Augustin Aug 03, 2010

    I am not sure, but it seems to me that with an air cooled engine, it would not be good to rev the engine for a long time while the bike is still.
    When the bike is still there is not enough air moving.
    The bike needs moving air in order to cool off.
    So when still, it is important to not rev the engine.
    Or maybe use a large fan pointed at the engine?

    I know that when they put a bike on a dynameter, they use large fans to keep it from overheating.


  • Kirk Augustin
    Kirk Augustin Aug 03, 2010

    The other things I know of that can cause any engine to overheat, are retarded timing, and poor mixture.
    If the spark timing is way too retarded (late), then the piston will already be on the way down.
    That means the compression won't be high enough to make the concussion fast.
    So instead there is a slow burn of the fuel instead of a fast explosion.
    This reduces power and greatly increases the heat.
    But low compression from badly adjusted or leaking valves can do this as well.

    Check the ignition timing and do a compression test.
    Timing should be before top dead center (TDC) by a few degrees at least, and compression should be over 100 psi. ( you remove spark plug and replace with pressure gauge)


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My kxf250 will no start it was such a good bike started first time evry time then rideing it hard one day it was fine left it for a week and it did not start and had no compresson so took it apart rings...


Hi mate sounds like you tested all the standard stuff you obviously know what your doing - In my experience when I get a bike like this where all seemingly is good and set correctly but no sign of life when trying to start 99% of the time ends up being the stator.
And I know it seems strange but I honestly up to about my tenth bike now where even though shows spark at plug when kicked over test, the stator still at fault when tested with Multi meter (way out of spec.)
If you have your repair manual flick through and get the spec ranges for the resistance on your stator then disconnect the stator lead at the CDI end and its very simple set your meter to ohms and plug into each pair of wires (usually 3 pairs) and see what readings you get
don't worry to much if you don't have the spec range as if it is the stator you will quickly notice you get zero reading on one pair of wires if not all three?
let me know if you want more clarification on testing
If all this fails to assist then my advice would a be leak down test to diagnose compression leaks, open valves, gasket leaks etc Then I would pay attention to the pilot circuit of the carbi, Double check your timing and valve clearances, Then I would be back to testing stator again?
Very rarely your coil pack (spark plug cap) can fail but be worth testing it when you have your multi meter out ( you looking for about 0.08 - 0.10 resistance reading on it) and even more rarely the CDI box can fail, no real way to test this apart from plug new one in and test if cures things...
Being that 5-6 years old and you know the bulk of how to fix and maintain this sound more and more like a stator problem..
On the up side if you do need to change the stator great opportunity to change cam chain aswell they run like brand new with full stator power and a brand new cam chain
cheers mate .... Good luck!

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Hi i have a 1995 yz250 the bike was fine till one day it wouldn't kick only bump start so I cleaned th carb and the filter then the bike started 1st 2nd kick about 20 mins of riding later the bike...


Hi mate I would be getting someone to check resistance on your stator its a simple test only requires a multimeter but hard to explain on here - From what your saying I think this test could save your headache!
Once stators fail they can be completely unreliable such as allow you to push start but not kick start or allow you to start but as soon as bike warms up fails completely until cold again they even can give false reading when you test to see if spark is at the plug as you see spark but is not strong enough or is sparking at wrong time... I have had bikes come in my work shop where guys have been confident has spark and they have rebuilt and replaced everything you can imagine but all it was the stator failing with not enough resistance..

regards Jamie

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