Overhauling a 1984 toyota pu R22 carburetor with a kit and after disassembly of the linkage I do not know how to reassemble the linkage. I have been trying to find an exploed view of the linkage so I could reinstall.

rebuild carb kit is cheap

Greetings ... Malcomb Moar,

I'd be very interested in hearing WHY you attacked your
"carby"... (and were the results real or imagined??).

With any luck it was the same reason and you lost no ground...
Quite the contrary... you can MOVE ON...

I had a car doing the EXACT SAME thing to me...
My temper got the best of me and I kept stuffing my foot into it... until the MUFFLER blew COMPLETELY OPEN....

A decade later a Jaguar XJS V12 did the same wheezing, coughing & back firing... (Ccalifornia catalytic converter)

That I treated more gen6ly... It was also a BLOCKED EXHAUST

Hope this helps


http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1984,pickup,2.4l+l4,1277243,fuel+&+air,carburetor+repair+kit,5964

Usually there is an electric heater on the side of the carb that opens the choke. You may want to check the heater to see if it has voltage and if it is working.
The linkage for the choke can get sticky or dirty and not work. Basic gravity and a spring opens the choke so the linkage must move freely.

Double check but when you get the rebuild kit from the auto parts store it should contain the info you need to bebuild your carb. It should also contain the specs for it as well. Get the counter person to open it and check for an instruction sheet. If you wait and do it yourself you won't be able to return it. Don't forget to pick up a can of carb cleaner that you can soak your pieces in and get them clean before you rebuild it.Also count the number of turns on the idle screws when you take them out. Reinstalling them with the same number of turns will make setting your carb up so much easier.Take close up pictures of things like choke linkage to have a reference when you reassemble. Linkages can often be put on wrong. Hope this helps.

The 1986 Ranger V-6 was a 2.8L 170.4 cu or 2792 cc.
The carb for this engine was a 2 BBL Model 2150, E37E-AEA (Will not cross except for re-build kits!)
The Holley remanufactured PN is 645544

Autozone lists 3 carbs... one for manual trans one for auto trans and one other:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1984-Ford-Ranger-2WD/Carburetor/_/N-ik8k8Z8vd1l?filterByKeyWord=Carburetor&fromString=search
Auto trans below....
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/National-Carburetors-Carburetor/1984-Ford-Ranger-2WD/_/N-ik8k8Z8vd1l?counter=1&filterByKeyWord=Carburetor&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=50856_108282_3651_1248

NAPA lists the Holley reman... 645544

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

either the wiper motor or the wiper switch, then again the linkage could be rusty and frozen with age. on a car this old could be any. get a repair manual for about 10 buck on eBay and see how difficult it is to get the wiper motor out, that is where I would start. give the linkage a good coat of chain lube and make sure it moves easily before you reassemble it. if it is sloppy then you may need a new one, parts store or eBay. there will be a notch or stamp on the linkage which shows the "rest" position, make sure you follow and understand it before you reassemble, and make sure your inside wiper switch is in OFF position. you should be able to get a new wiper motor for less than a hundred bucks, at autozone not the kind of thing you should get a used part for unless you want to do this again next year. also do a search on youtube for videos of folks doing wipers on 80s toyotas, that should give you an idea of what you are getting into.

possibly bad fuel pump, plugged fuel filter, dirt in carb, plugged main jet, vacuum leaks, check fuel flow at carb inlet, if good, go on to carb itself , remove carb from engine, take to work surface, disassemble carb,clean all parts with carb cleaner and a soft bristle brush, make sure all jets are clear, blow out with air if you can, reassemble carb, put back on motor, attach linkage, fuel line, try engine, luck

Quick explanation of your fuel system:

An automotive fuel system consists of everything between the fuel tank and the carburetor or fuel injection unit. This includes the tank itself, all the lines, one or more fuel filters, a fuel pump (mechanical, electric, or both), and the carburetor or fuel injection unit.
With the exception of the carburetor or fuel injection unit, the fuel system is quite simple in operation. Fuel is drawn or pumped from the tank through the fuel line by the fuel pump, which forces it through the fuel filter, and from there to the carburetor/injection unit where it is distributed to the cylinders.

So with that info...try first to clean your spark plugs.
Next, replace your fuel filter.
After that, depending on a carburetor/fuel injection, try an additive that cleans the injectors. For the carburetor, try a half of can of what is called "Seafoam". It comes in a metal can available everywhere, including Walmart. It is worth the $6-8 and also will "dry" out your fuel from water. Very good product.

After that, get back to us and let us know how your Toyota is running.

well it ends up at the alternator, yellow wire.

it is clipped above the framerail just in front of the right rear tire