Question about 2005 kawasaki KLX 110

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How do you disassemble the KLX 110 fork tubes? There is not screw cap on the top. Do you need to need to unscrew the allen bolt on the bottom and dissassemble the entire for just to change the oil? Thanks for your help. Mike

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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DoubleClutch
  • 376 Answers

SOURCE: ive removed the allen screw from the bottom of the

If you got the bolt out and it wont come apart give it a hard slide downword a few good times and it should come off.

Posted on Sep 28, 2009

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SOURCE: cannot replce allen bottom of fork

if you have fork disconnected from triple tree this could be why....you have to have it secured in place or connected back on to the forks to keep it it from rotating as you try to tighten it.

Posted on Oct 08, 2009

pugwash814
  • 377 Answers

SOURCE: what is the fork oil amount for a 2002 klx 300 per

The owners manual says to do the following if you don't want to remove the forks:
*raise the front wheel
*remove the fender, meter cable & unit, headlight, handle bar, fork protectors
*loosen the fork upper clamp bolts
*remove the caps from the top of the fork tube
*fully compress the fork tube so the dust cover touches the bottom and place a stand to hold it
*remove the springs
*set the oil level 68mm (standard) or 60 - 90 mm (adjustable) from the top of the tube

It may be easier to remove the tubes and you could replace the leaky seal at the same time. I did this recently and put in new springs too. It was my first time working on forks. With help from TT members and the service manual it was fairly easy. I didn't buy an oil gauge, seal driver, or spring holder. I used a ruler to measure the oil and a medicine dropper to remove any excess. For a seal driver I used a piece of PVC pipe cut in half then secured around the lower tube to drive the seal. Try a search on replacing fork seals for more info. 5w oil is standard but i have heard that 7 works well Good luck.

Posted on Dec 20, 2009

  • 31 Answers

SOURCE: i have a 2008 kawasaki klx 110.i am wanting to rep...

There is a special tool to pull the spring out, try to go to motorbike shop and they will show you that tools.Use the right tool otherwise you'll ruin your bike.

Posted on May 26, 2010

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2008 kawasaki klx 110. i have wanting to

Depending on your size and weight, I would suggest that you obtain a set of KX65 forks, get the mod tripple clamps, and replace the whole front end. Its pricey but worth it.. look at fastminnis.com or any pitbike website for further information on klx110 mods. Good luck

Posted on Dec 20, 2010

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How to replace fork seals 2007 fatboy


To replace the front fork oil first support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended. Remember that the FLSTC and FLSTF models have a preloaded fork spring and that the fork tube plug is under spring pressure.Then you remove the fork tube caps. And then you drain the fork oil. ON FXSTD models, your remove the drain screws and washers from each fork and drain the fork oil this way. ON ALL MODELS EXCEPT the FXSTD, remove and discard the drain screws and washers from each fork and drain the fork oil and then you install new drain screws and washers. ON FXSTD models, apply LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 243 (blue) to the drain screws and tighten them to 12-18 inlbs (1.4-2.0 Nm). ON ALL MODELS EXCEPT FXSTD, tighten the drain screws to 52-78 in-lbs (5.9-8.9 Nm).THEN fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL (Part No. HD-99884-80).Either by installing oz or cc's of fluid if the forks were left in the frame or by measuring the amount of oil in the tubes in inches or mm if the forks were removed from the frame and disassembled. In the latter case the oil level is measured from the top of the fork tube with the spring removed and the fork fully compressed.

MODELs FLSTC, FLSTN use 13.4 OZ 395 cc4.41 inches 112.0 mm
MODEL FLSTF uses 13.4 OZ 397 cc5.04 inches128.0 mm
MODELs FXST, FXSTB, FXSTC use 12.5 OZ370 cc 6.69 inches170.0 mm
MODEL FXSTD uses 11.6 OZ343 cc 7.48 inches190.0 mm

FINALLY tighten the fork tube caps to 40-60 ft-lbs (54.2-81.3 Nm).

Jul 10, 2014 | 1993 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy

1 Answer

Change fork oil street bob 2007


To change the oil or to rebuild a 2007 DYNA front fork FIRST raise and support the motorcycle so that the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, remove the brake caliper and the front wheel, remove the front fender, loosen the pinch bolt screws, do not remove the tube caps, slide the fork sides downward clear of the fork brackets, repeat the procedure for the opposite fork tube and slider assembly.

To disassemble a 2007 DYNA front fork clamp the fork tube and slider assembly in a fork tube holder tool mounted horizontally in a vise, use a 12mm Allen wrench is needed to loosen but do not remove the seat pipe screw, while the internal components are still under tension and less prone to rotate, on the right fork tube and slider assembly, remove the axle holder to access the seat pipe screw, remove the fork tube cap and its o-ring, remove the long spring collar, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool and invert it over a suitable container to catch the fork oil and allowing thefork to drain, extend and retract the slider several times to push oil out of the internal fork components, the washer, and the spring will fall out of fork tube. THEN clamp the fork tube in the fork tube holder tool, remove the slider cover from the slider by inserting a brass drift into the notch in the slider and lightly tapping the cover loose, compress the stopper ring and remove the stopper ring from the groove in the top of the slider bore, Do not remove slider tube caps without relieving the spring preload or the caps and springs may fly out. THEN remove the seat pipe screw and its washer from the bottom of the slider and retain them for reuse, withdraw the slider from the fork tube until the bushing guide contacts the bushing on the fork tube (the bushing guide is a slight interference fit in the slider), then using the slider as a slide hammer, hit the bushing with the bushing guide with a quick continuous stroke until the slider is pulled free from the fork tube, drain the slider and allow the stop oil lock piece to fall free. (If you are only changing the oil or replacing the slider the remaining parts can be left assembled and the fork re-assembled) If it is still attached to the seat pipe remove the stop oil lock piece from the lower end of the seat pipe, remove the seat pipe piston and the ring assembly, remove the rebound spring, remove the oil seal, remove the seal spacer, and remove the bushing guide. Repeat the foregoing procedure for the opposite fork tube and slider assembly.

Thoroughly clean and inspect each part and if and as necessary replace any corroded, worn, bent, broken or otherwise damaged parts, inspect the fork tube bushing and the slider guide bushing and replace if and as required, always replace all oil seals and all o-rings, check the dust cover where it rubs on the fork tube (it should have a good and continuous seal and not show excessive wear, check the fork tube where it rubs on dust the cover and the tube should show a bright, shiny surface, free of scoring or abrasions, if any spring(s) is/are broken they must be replaced, if a fork tube or slider is bent or damaged it must also be replaced now, replace all other worn or damaged components if and as necessary.

To assemble a 2007 DYNA fork FIRST insert the seat pipe assembly with the spring into the slider tube, slide the bushing guide down to the bushing on the fork tube, follow it with the spacer, the oil seal, the stopper ring, the dust shield and the slider cover, install the fork tube into the fork tube holder tool, fit the lower stop onto the seat pipe, slide the seat pipe back into the fork tube until the seat pipe is centered in the tube, gently install the slider assembly onto the slider tube and the bushing, thread the seat pipe screw and washer into the seat pipe through the bottom of the slider assembly, draw the fastener into the seat pipe but do not tighten it at this time, verify the proper action of the fork by moving the slider up and down the fork tube, locate the appropriate fork seal driver over the fork tube in front of the oil seal with the fork seal chamfered lips facing the oil in the fork, in the following order assemble thetop oil seal, the spacer and the bushing guide into the slider bore, install the stopper ring into its groove above the oil seal, push the dust seal against the oil seal and stopper ring, rotate the slider cover to match any removal burrs to the notch in the slider and snap the slider cover into place. THEN operate the slider through its full range of travel several times to verify alignment and proper smooth operation, then pulling down on the slide to apply downward force on the rebound spring, tighten the seat pipe screw to 106-159 in-lbs (12-18 Nm), vertically re-position the fork tube into the fork tube holder tool and with the slider tube compressed, fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL until it is approximately the amount specified below for the type or motorcycle and fork that it is.

a. FXDWG- approximately 29.6 oz (875 cc) and distance from the top of the fork tube = 4.4 in (112 mm); and
b. All other Dyna models- approximately 26.6 oz (787 cc) and distance from the top of the fork tube = 4.3 in (110 mm)
THEN slowly pump the slider 8 to 10 times to remove air from the fork assembly and fully compress the slider to properly measure the oil level which is measured from the top of the fork tube, with the spacer and the spring removed and the fork fully compressed, then using an appropriate oil level gauge tool adjust the oil level to appropriate level for the fork type and model, pull out the slider and install the spring in the fork tube with the tightly wound end at the bottom, install the washer and the spring collar, carefully to avoid cross threading, install the fork tube cap with a new o-ring and tighten it to 16-43 ft-lbs (22-58 Nm). Repeat the process for the other fork tube and slider assembly.

To install the fork in a 2007 DYNA FIRST insert the fork tube and the slider assemblies up through the lower triple clamp and the upper triple clamp so that the fork tubes will protrude above the upper triple clamp 0.450-0.500 in. (11.4-12.7 mm) with the measurement taken at the midpoint of the fork tube between the top surface of the triple clamp and the top of the fork cap and when properly positioned tighten the pinch bolts to 30-35 ft-lbs (41- 48 Nm), install the front fender and bracket, install the front brake caliper(s), install the front wheel and align the wheel to the forks.

May 11, 2014 | 2006 Harley Davidson FXDBI Street Bob

1 Answer

Where do you get the overall height measurement at


3 measurments here
*static height-
*dynamic height-
*suspention height(extended fork length)

static height is measured with a plumb line to the ground at the center of the fork tube top with the motorcycle standing upright and no rider on on it

*dynamic height is the same except your sitting on the motorcycle.

*suspention height /extended fork length is with the front wheel off the ground and measured from the center of the front axle to the top of the fork tube.if tube cap/valve is recessed you still use the top of tube measurement but if it has a cap that screws in on top of the tube then imagine the fork cap removed (measurement stops at the top of tube itself.(most always)

Mar 01, 2012 | 2004 Honda VTX 1300 Retro

1 Answer

2003 HD sportster - forks don't leak, bottoms out when front brakes applied


You may not have enough oil in the front forks or you may been a heavier viscosity of oil. I'm sorry but I don't have the oil capacity for your "Low Sportster". All I have is for "Hugger" models. They take 10.7oz. "wet" and 12.1 "dry". The difference between "wet" and "dry" is that if you simply drain and refill the front forks, it's call a "wet" oil change. If you disassemble and clean the forks of all oil inside, it's called a "dry" oil change. Contact the service department of your local shop and ask them how much oil goes in the front fork. To change the oil, there is usually a small screw in the trailing side of the lower fork slider down near the axle. Take these out and the oil will drain to a certain degree. Hold the brake while working the forks up and down with your weight to get all the oil that draining will get out of them. If you want all the oil out, you'll have to disassemble the fork tube. I would not do this if the seals are not leaking. Replace the screws in the sliders and then remove the top cap from one tube at the time and refill the tube with the specified amount of oil. Sometimes, the top caps can be difficult to get back in due to the pressure of the large spring in the front fork tubes. You may need a tool to compress the sping. I'm not sure on the "Low" model. I've always managed to the top caps back in without any special tool but I've never done a "Low" model bike. Harley uses what they call their "Type E" fork oil. I do not know what the viscosity of this oil is so I always use PJ-1 30 weight fork oil for most applications. Use only fork oil as any other oil may have a tendency to foam thereby negating any dampening action of the forks. If this doesn't solve your problem, you may want to check into changing the springs in the front forks. Progressive Suspension and others make kits for this.

Good Luck
Steve

Sep 13, 2011 | 2006 Harley Davidson XL 1200 L Sporster...

1 Answer

I have a 2002 flstc , just replaced the " fork seals ", still leaking on left side. i was told to replace " oil seals " under the " slide tube cap " and spacer. will this...


Well, yes. The fork seals are located at the top of the fork slider un the "slide tube cap". This makes me wonder exactly what did you replace when you say that you just replaced the "fork seals". To get to these oil seals, you have to disassemble the forks tubes. Remove the front wheel and fenders. Down where you took the axle out, look up into the end of the slider and you'll see a socket head bolt, 6mm. Loosen this bolt before you take the tube out of the triple tree. Remove and repair one tube at the time. When you get the slider off the top tube, you will see a retainer ring in the top of the slider. The seal is under this ring. The new oil seals must be replace squarely in the tube. When you reassemble the tube and put it back in the triple tree, there is a specific amount of fork oil that must be added to each tube to properly refill it. You must use the "dry" quantity when refilling the fork tube because you disassembled and completely drained the tube. I'm sorry but I don't have this quantity of fork oil for this late of a model bike. I work on the earlier model bikes only.

good luck
steve

Jul 19, 2011 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage...

1 Answer

Switching lower for sliders out to chrome need instructions to assemble and disassemble


There are two ways to change out the lower sliders on your bike. One, remove the entire fork tube from the steering head and the other, simply remove and replace the lower slider. There really isn't that much difference and I prefer to remove the entire fork tube myself.

First you'll have to get your bike off the gound and stable. Then remove the front wheel, the front brake and the front fender. Remove the windshield, light bar, and nachelle.

Once you get everything out of the way, here's where you can go two different routes. In one, you loosen the clamp bolt at the lower triple tree and remove the top cap of the fork. Spray a bit of penetrating oil around the fork tube in the lower tree and start working the tube out. Once the tube is out, remove the top plug and spring. Turn the fork tube upside down and empty the oil out of it and remove the spring. Look at the spring. It's tapered on one end, make sure you put this end in first when you reassemble the tube. With the fork tube upside down, look at the bottom end of the slider where the axle goes through. You'll see a single 8mm bolt. Remove this bolt and the slider will come off.

In the other method, you do it the same way except you don't remove the fork tube from the triple. You remove the top cap and the tube plug. Remove the drain plug and drain the oil out of the fork tube. Remove the screw and remove the lower slider. It is quite a bit messier as all the oil is not out of the slider when you take it off.

When you reassemble, make sure you use the proper quantity of oil in each leg. You will see a "wet" and "dry" measurement. Use the "dry" measurement since you disassembled the fork. I do not have the quantity of oil you should use for your model. A dealer should be able to tell you.

Good Luck
Steve

Nov 14, 2010 | 2005 Harley Davidson FLSTC - FLSTCI...

1 Answer

Need to change out fork seals...any advice on how to approach this or tricks to look out for?


Your triple clamps are the best vice for your fork tubes. Put your bike on the center stand and lift the front wheel off the ground with a jack. Take off your front wheel and loosen the socket caps in the bottom of the tubes. ( you may want to remove the front fender to work on tubes individually) On some models you have to put a towel on the tank, unbolt the handle bars, and move the bars enough to get them out of the way. Unbolt air crossover tube if equipped. Loosen fork top caps and remove. Place a pan under the forks and remove the socket screws. This will dump the oil and allow you to remove the fork lowers. You may need a seal pry bar to remove seals. Installation is reverse order . Add oil after snugging up socket screws ( tighten after top caps are on). Do not to over fill fork tubes with oil it will damage the fork sliders while you ride. The dealer can tell you the correct amount for your model. Honda dealers have pocket size specification books they get quick check the information.

Aug 24, 2010 | 1986 Honda VT 500 C Shadow

1 Answer

I have a 2008 kawasaki klx 110. i have wanting to replace my stock fork springs with heavy duty ones...not sure how to replace them.


Depending on your size and weight, I would suggest that you obtain a set of KX65 forks, get the mod tripple clamps, and replace the whole front end. Its pricey but worth it.. look at fastminnis.com or any pitbike website for further information on klx110 mods. Good luck

Apr 08, 2010 | 2008 kawasaki KLX 110

1 Answer

What is the fork oil amount for a 2002 klx 300 per fork tube


The owners manual says to do the following if you don't want to remove the forks:
*raise the front wheel
*remove the fender, meter cable & unit, headlight, handle bar, fork protectors
*loosen the fork upper clamp bolts
*remove the caps from the top of the fork tube
*fully compress the fork tube so the dust cover touches the bottom and place a stand to hold it
*remove the springs
*set the oil level 68mm (standard) or 60 - 90 mm (adjustable) from the top of the tube

It may be easier to remove the tubes and you could replace the leaky seal at the same time. I did this recently and put in new springs too. It was my first time working on forks. With help from TT members and the service manual it was fairly easy. I didn't buy an oil gauge, seal driver, or spring holder. I used a ruler to measure the oil and a medicine dropper to remove any excess. For a seal driver I used a piece of PVC pipe cut in half then secured around the lower tube to drive the seal. Try a search on replacing fork seals for more info. 5w oil is standard but i have heard that 7 works well Good luck.

Dec 20, 2009 | 2002 kawasaki KLX 300 R

1 Answer

How do u disassemble forks


Here is a diagram of your forks:
http://216.37.204.203/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaMC.asp?Type=13&A=140&B=28
Assuming you have already removed your fork cap, you will need to remove the clip # 5 and the bolt # 18 then in a slide hammer type action, pull the upper tube out of the lower tube. There is a washer underneath the fork seal that will pull the fork seal out with the upper tube, so you have to compress the fork tube, then give it a good yank to pull the seal and separate the tubes.

A couple of tips here. First, to loosen the fork cap, loosen the top triple tree pinch bolt at each fork leg before removing the forks from the bike, then loosen the fork cap. You don't have to take the cap off at this time, but break it loose. It is very difficult to hold the fork tube and prevent it from turning once the fork is off the bike and out of the clamp. It is much easier to break it loose and leave it finger tight before dropping the forks out of the triple clamps. The key thing to remember is loosen the pinch bolt before attempting to loosen the cap. The pinch bolt applies extra pressure to the cap and can complicate the process of loosening the cap if left tight.
The other tip would be to use a 3/8" air impact wrench to loosen the allen bolt in the bottom of the fork leg. The internals will want to spin if you try to do it by hand.

Oct 03, 2009 | 1994 Yamaha FZR 600

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