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84 VF700C Starts and idles fine. Has a bad hesitation or bog at 3-4000 rpm.

Posted by Anonymous on

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  • Honda Master
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Hi, Anonymous engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components have been changed out they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for cracks.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in a process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must have for fine tuning and maximum performance.
Fine tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Hesitation and bogging when giving throttle
Acceleration bogs around 4000 rpm GL1200
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6uU39dq308cNTUzODE4NmYtMDIxNy00MzAwLWFkZDUtNDNkMWUxYTVmYWQx/view?hl=en
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda VFR750 RC24 Owners Manual pdf

Posted on Jul 06, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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rockitman187
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SOURCE: Bogging and stalling at high RPM's

The main jet need cleaning.(you should clean them all though)

Main Jet: Main jet comes into play at three-quarters open to full throttle conditions. CRITICAL to high-speed engine operation. Not only does it meter the gas into the engine, it can aid in cooling the engine as well.

Please rate this Fixya

Posted on Jan 29, 2009

bazzz7071
  • 342 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 yamaha ttr 250, starts, idles ok, bogs at acceleration

Has the bike been stored for any long length of time?
old fuel in the carburetor will turn to a varnish like residue blocking the jets,or possibly water in the carburetor.

Posted on May 03, 2010

Testimonial: "The bike was not stored and was ridden regularly, but it still sounds like it could be the carburetor. Thanks for your insight."

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Hesitation at low rpm


92
which G16 engine, 8valve 16v? black top or silver top
the 16v shouts, electronic EFI on top.

i bet you did classic error #1, never replacing the cam belt
it slips and you see spark timing way off and then retime the distrib.
now its double bad.(wrong)

No tools?
compression, over 150PSI ? wide open throttle time 4?
if that is good the belt has not slipped yet.
the open hood, look up, see that EPA sticker there with spark timing
in clear print, now set the timing using the timing freeze jumper.
to spec. using a real tool called a timing light.
btw, timing never drifts off, unless the belt is bad. or someone guessed.
that is what is first. and fueling is last.
The ECu controls timing all the time, setting it wrong is one of the
biggest lies you can input to any ECU on any car.
it assumes its correct and advances from there. so dont set it wrong.

tell 8v/16v engine and help is 100x better. i promise.

Tbelt
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/tbelt-index.html

Dizzy timing, 101
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/16v-procedure.html

the EGR must not leak or the engine will stall. sitting advance to hide
bad EGR is overthe top wrong.

the tbelt fast test ,
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/sneak-a-peek.html

the spark timing freeze jumper
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/IGN-FREEZE.HTML


bogging.
does it have full power up hills. WOT?
WOT power is 100% ok so........
is the hesitation only for an instant, then recovers.
yes, bad TPS.
or TPS idle switch bad or calibrated wrong.
or needs the 60k mile tuneup. spark /filters /belt (cam)

the bog page. links to all possible

http://www.fixkick.com/power-index.html


is the crank pulley 17mm head bolt , at 94ft/lbs
if not it will mangle the key way fast. end of life , crankshaft.
see TSB on that. on the tbelt pages.

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Sounds like the exhaust is clogged with carbon.Remove the silencer and dismantle it if you can and clean the pipe and baffles.This should help you.

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