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Proper and correct jetting is something that can only be achieved in person by a REAL MECHANIC that KNOWS how to "read" a spark plug,,,With the mods you mentioned.. you need to know the stock jet sizes..a close guess would be reduce the main jet by two or three steps and lower the needle one clip position... oil mix should be at least 32:1....or better yet 28:1.. KEEP the oil mixture and jet the carb for performance....( I see TOO MANY IDIOTS that instead of jetting a carb correctly just reduce the oil ..some as low as 50:1(INSANE) just to keep from fouling plugs.).. then WONDER why their engine doesn't last long... hahaha????
YOU > BE SMART!!
Hi, Leoniekitche if you have changed your engine size, fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" you're not getting enough fuel.
1. Close to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. A wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Carburator Theory and Tuning How to Tune Adjust KTM 2 Stroke Carburetors 1999 2010 KTM 125 200 SX EXC Service Repair Manual pdf pdfhttps://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-ktm http://www.karlstrommotor.se/upload/PDF/KTM08/repman125-200.pdf
Hi, when you change your pipe to the FMF you reduced the back pressure and gave it more flow. That causes it to run a little "rich". Look at your spark plug and check the color of it, it should be a nice tan color. If its a dark brown then you need to "lean" out your bike. The easiest way to do that is by taking the slide out of the carb and taking out the main jet, the lock washer is set to the middle position for a stock set-up. Move it down 2 notches and then run it and see what your plug looks like. The black "goo" is the unburned oil from not running lean enough. Another trick to try is run a NGK-EV plug. it burns hotter so it will help with the oil problem (and make it a little more snappy also). And as an added bonus it will be easier to start.
I am not sure as to where you wwant more power. I hear the JD needle makes the bike smoother. If you need more bottom end power a switch for 13:52 gearing will help LTR power valve cover a POWER NOW PLUS POWER NOW (carb divider plates), FMF Gnarly for bottom end, and a 2K2 igntion.
As for your jetting it sounds like you could go down on the pilot one size and raise the clip up one position.,,,