Question about 2003 Yamaha YZ 250

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Fuel in my 2000 yz250 runs straight out the overflowbike will not start

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Disregard that solution. Other than it not giving you a solution at all, your carb does NOT have injectors in it. Thats two completely different things. You most likely have a stuck float. Take the plastic end of a screw driver and tap the bowl with a little force with the fuel turned on. If the fuel does not stop turn off the fuel, get yourself a small phillips head and loosen up the carb from the cylinder and rotate the bowl (bottom of the carb) towards you so you can pull out the five or so gold screws. BE CAREFUL. You'll remove the bowl and expose what looks like two little pontoons. Take some break cleaner and clean all around the rod that the float is mounted on. The smallest grain of sand can make that float stick and pour fuel. Hope it helps.

Posted on Aug 09, 2010

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You may have to do a tune up on your carb, like take it apart and clean it out, may be from something small clogged in the injectors, or may be something small that may have broke inside, but all would be inside the carb, thats were i would start.

Posted on Jul 15, 2010

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1 Answer

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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enricher.
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8. Carburetor float stuck.
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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enrichner.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. A severely discharged or damaged battery, you need 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
13. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
14. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
15. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
16. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
17. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
18. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
19. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
20. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
21. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
22. Check for engine trouble codes.
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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
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Hi, Brian and the usual suspects are:
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2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
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5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
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10. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
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17. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
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