Question about Honda CBR 900 RR Fireblade Motorcycles

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Temperature affecting ignition

Hi, i v a 2008 Honda cbr600rr, the issue i have with it is, once the temperature goes past 80 degrees Fahrenheit, it wont start until it cools off and the temperature drops back to 70. it doesnt matter even if i rode it for 15mins once it goes past that 80, i wont b able to start it, when you do try to start it, it acts like the battery is drained and the engine doesn't roll, and then i have to get someone to give me a push so i can jump start it. But as soon as it cools off, it starts immediately. kindly help as i don't want to have to sell the bike

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Hi ,
One thing you can try :
Change your spark plugs to a cooler type which will help the bike to run cooler and will eliminate the start dificulties when hot . You will notice that in winter time it will be harder to start but at that time you may swap back to the other plugs .
Try that to start with and let me know how you go .

Posted on Jul 15, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Hi, Coy08cbr600rr for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Non Glowing Igniter


What solenoids are you referring to?

When you set the timer and heat selector switches on your dryer and press the button [switch] to turn it on, the direction of 120VAC passes through the heat selector switch through the timer switch through the cycling thermostat through the hi-limit switch, through the thermal cut-off fuse to the burner assembly's gas valve.

Simultaneously, as the current is traveling through a path to the 1st gas valve coil, current is also traveling through a path to the flame sensor- and then to the igniter.

The igniter will begin to glow and when it gets hot enough, the flame sensor will detect the heat and switch off. which then diverts current to the second gas valve coils.

The second gas valve coils activate plungers in the gas valve which allows gas to flow out into the burner housing. The igniter still being hot, ignites the gas to a long blue flame.

To maintain the proper air temperature, the heat in the blower housing is monitored by the cycling thermostat. During normal operation, air temperature should be between 120 degrees Fahrenheit and 160 degrees Fahrenheit.

When the air reaches the proper temperature specific to your dryer model, the cycling thermostat will switch off the voltage to the burner assembly.

The hi-limit thermostat and thermal cut-off fuse monitor the drum air temperature. If there is an air flow problem [restriction or total blockage], the hi-limit thermostat may switch off the voltage to prevent damage to the dryer.

Eventually, if the air flow problem [restriction or total blockage] is not corrected, the thermal cut-off fuse will fail (blow) and the dryer won't heat at all.

Check continuity to the following components, thermal cut-off fuse, hi-limit thermostat, igniter, flame sensor, and cycling thermostat. Of course you will take your readings with the power cord of the dryer unplugged from the wall outlet.

You will either disconnect [isolate] any of the wire leads going to their respective components during the test [using a multimeter (analog or digital)]; OR remove each of the components entirely from the dryer to test them.

1.) A good thermal cut-off fuse will have 0 Ohms of resistance. On the other hand, if the needle [on a an analog tester] does not move OR the digital display [on a digital meter] has not changed significantly, there is NO continuity - which means the fuse has burned out and needs to be replaced

2.) A dryer's Hi-Limit Thermostat is activated by hi-temperature changes (between 250 degrees Fahrenheit and 300 degrees Fahrenheit.

A good hi-limit thermostat will have 0 Ohms of resistance at room temperature.

To test the thermostat's response to temperature change, place the component on an electric griddle or skillet. Set the heat on the skillet or griddle to the appropriate temperature according to the temperature rating stamped on the hi-limit thermostat you are testing. If the hi-limit thermostat switches off within 5% of that temperature, the part is functioning properly. However, if the hi-limit thermostat does not switch off OR switches off prematurely, the hi-limit thermostat is faulty and will have to be replaced. [Remember, when the switch turns off at the appropriate temperature level- you should get a high resistance reading to show that the circuit is "open")

3.) Perform the same procedure as step 2 to test the Cycling Thermostat: First at room temperature and then its response to temperature change. The only difference is, the test temperature range will be somewhere between 120-160 degrees Fahrenheit Once again, refer to the temperature rating stamped on the component you are testing- and the 5% tolerance remains the same, too.

4.) The resistance reading for the igniter is between 50 and 400 Ohms of resistance; anything else, it's faulty- toss it and replace it.

5.) You should get a resistance reading of 0 Ohms at the flame sensor-

Flame sensors are tricky though. Flame sensors could still short out and
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Hope this info helps...I would appreciate a follow-up from you when you resolve this problem- to gain more knowledge and skill.

Thank-you and best wishes on your project

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Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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The FI light blinks after turning on the ignition. The pattern of blinks corresponds to a hi/low voltage problem with the EGCV. Ive eliminated possibility of open circuit, loose wire or short. The servo...


Hi, Edwardsotoli you Mensa folks get all tied up in numbers that may be accurate but misleading, let me start with the fact that ECM's are virtually bullet proof and barring a nuclear meltdown are never the problem. I would be looking real hard at your EGCV valve/servo for wiring, adjustment or faulty integrity issues.
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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