Question about 2003 Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage Classic
Take everything off the rear of the bike so you can gain access to the rear brake caliper. There are two screws that hold the brake caliper into the caliper bracket. Remove the screws. Most newer bikes have Torx head screws. Once you get the screws out, rock the caliper a bit and gently lift it up. Notice the position of the pads and the anti-rattle hardware that is in there. Some bikes have a "spirng" in there as well. Notice how it's all in there and then take it out. Replace the pads and hardware. Make sure you put the rear pad in with the fiber towards the rotor. Don't laugh, I've seen professionals put them in backwards, metal to metal.
Now, you've got to get the piston back into the bore of the caliper. I use either a large C-clamp or a large pair of slip joint pliers. Protect the paint on your caliper by wrapping it with rags or something. Compress the piston until it is all the way down into it's bore. Then, carefully put the caliper back on the bracket, insert bolts and torque them to 18-20 foot pounds.
Slowly pump the rear brake pedal until you get a full pedal. Make sure you test the brakes before you ride the bike. An improperly preformed brake job can cause serious injury or death.
Posted on Jul 13, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: How to change the front
Take the two bolts out that hold the front caliper onto the fork slider. Lift the caliper off and take the pads out. You must compress the brake caliper piston back into the caliper body. I usually use a large C-clamp or a large slip joint pliers to compress the piston back into the caliper. Protect the finish on your caliper with rags or thin pieces of wood. Once you get the piston back into the caliper, replace the pads with the new ones making certain that the fiber side of the pad is facing towards the rotor. Put the caliper back into position and reinstall the two bolts. Torque them to 25 foot pounds of torque. Work the front brake lever until you have a full firm brake.
Posted on May 02, 2011
Not too hard - Undo the two bolts on the caliper and then seperate the caliper and pull the old ones out. Insert the new ones and put the bolts back in to hold the caliper back together and then install them back on the bike with the two retaining bolts. Use a bit of lock tight (Blue) on the threads. Warning do not let anyone apply pressure on the brakes while you have them off the bike or you will have a mess and/or a problem.
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
remove two tiny torx head screws and pull them out of the caliper
remove old pads
clean and push piston(s) into caliper
easier with wheel off, or axle pulled out so caliper can "float"
a toothbrush work well with some brakecleans
Posted on Aug 20, 2010
SOURCE: 2005 Ultra CLassic after panic
I have no idea what the problem could be without seeing the bike but that's impossible. That's the nature of doing this. What I'd do is take the two bolts out that hold the caliper into the caliper bracket. Lift the caliper out and lay it aside. Do not bend the hose too sharply. Inspect your brake pads and see what they look like. Replace them if you see anything that you don't like. As long as the rear brake pedal feels firm, I wouldn't suspect air in the system but you might try bleeding the system a bit just to make sure.
Posted on May 10, 2011
SOURCE: where is the location of
This is a generic offering for your question on a very specific make and model of Harley Davidson motorcycle.
I don't know EXACTLY on this model. ... it will be a mechanical switch attached to some part of the mechanical linkage - probably by a spring to allow for shoe wear, or if hydraulic, follow the line from the master to the slave. You are going to have to get down on the ground and look at all the linkage and line. Your switch may be covered by a panel of some type.
Let me know what you find ... thanks for your question @ FixYa.com
Posted on Jul 11, 2011
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