Question about 2003 Yamaha YZF-R6

1 Answer

Clutch engagement is almost at end of lever travel but clutch does not slip even at high speeds. Is there an adjusment besides the lever freeplay adjustment?

Posted by Anonymous on

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Top Expert:

    An expert who has finished #1 on the weekly Top 10 Fixya Experts Leaderboard.

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

  • Yamaha Master
  • 40,772 Answers

Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
YZF R1 R6 Clutch Lever Free Play Adjustment
2003 2004 Yamaha YZF R6 Service Manual R6 Moto Data Project
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Posted on Sep 28, 2016

4 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2712 Answers

SOURCE: Long clutch pull/engagment on 696?

I recently installed CRG levers on our 696. No boot to fiddle with on this model. You can see the Allen key on the back of the lever perch from the outside or bar end. Simply adjust the Allen screw in/out with an Allen socket and ratchet to a range of positions then check clutch engagement and drag via a few test starts. Too far one direction and the clutch hangs up while too far the other way can give you an off/off switch lacking in full engagement that is hard on the gearbox. Conservatively set after 15 minutes of adjusting and testing resulted in an incredible reduction in the distance that my wife had to reach her tiny hands. She was extremely pleased as this completely addressed her only real complaint and made it much easier to ride. I did take the more expensive route with the Termi cans, getting a bit of a break from my local dealer at about $1250. The upside I found was that there really is no need for the dealer to install the cans because re-mapping wasn't necessary as it was with my 1098. If you are capable of unbolting your gas tank (a gazillion Allen screws on the tank covers and three bolts on the tank) and have a spare set of hands available to hold it so you don't have to undo fuel lines it is fairly simple. It's a good idea to take the tank covers off so you can see where everything is hiding. While you are under there with the battery disconnected I recommend installing a battery charger pigtail so you can easily plug in a trickle charger for the off-season. I spent maybe two hours - less time than on the fender eliminator. Again as I found putting Termi cans on my1098 the 696 loses the irritating leanness, starts much easier (fast idle no longer necessary) and runs much cooler. Plus it's all covered under warranty. With the removable sound deadener inserts you have a much nicer sound in your choice of "mellow" and "heavy metal". In my mind it now sounds like a Duc is supposed to sound. One trick on the install: the new CPU caused my dash to switch to EU (km instead of miles). There is an excellent detailed thread on this site that shows how to change back to US settings. Takes about two minutes.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

  • 796 Answers

SOURCE: Wire clutch adjustment

You should adjust the cable at the handlebars until it has loads of play and hardly moves the cable when you use the lever, then adjust the same cable at the gearbox end until it comes back into acceptable range with correct amount of play, then tighten locknut.
This is just taking up normal wear in the clutch. Note as guzzi clutches wear you get a clanking vibration noise from them at idle, its normal.

Posted on Jan 13, 2009

  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: 92 yamaha fzr 600r clutch lever sticks and clutch slips

Sounds like the bike has been doing wheeles and burnouts. As the clutch plates wear the cable needs adjusting. You have reached the end of the actuating cam. New plates are your best bet.

Posted on Jul 02, 2009

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

How do you adjust the clutch able on a bandit


are you trying to adjust the lever engagement or is the clutch - slipping ( or dragging )
i thought that this bike has a hydraulic clutch - but if it is cable operated - there will be an adjuster at each end of the cable - loosen the locknut and either tighten or loosen as required - there should be some slack at the lever - about 1/8 inch or 5 degrees of travel - re-tighten the locknut

Jan 08, 2013 | 1996 Suzuki GSF 600 S Bandit

1 Answer

Have ttr50 2008, starts in gear, doesn't shift properly. you did not list a TTR50 so I picked the TTR125, could you still answer my questions on a TTR50 thanks!


If the bike starts when it is in gear that would indicate that the clutch switch is sticking/broken? It is located between the clutch lever and the clutch lever assembly, normally a plastic bullet shaped switch with a switch that is depressed when the clutch lever is not engaged and released when the clutch lever is pulled in. The not shifting could be down to the chain not adjusted for freeplay correctly, also lub the gear change shaft. If the chain is adjusted then check freeplay on the clutch lever normally about 10mm, but check with your handbook.

Mar 29, 2011 | Yamaha TT-R 125 Motorcycles

2 Answers

My rpm turns higher but my speed still remains the same.


Sounds like you have a slipping clutch. You can check your owners manual for the proper clutch lever free play. A quick check would be to see where you are starting to engage the clutch or friction zone. With the bike warmed up and running, shift into 1st gear and then start to slowly releash the clutch lever. If the clutch does not start to engage until the lever is 80% released, then you can try adjusting the clutch lever free play. You can do this simply by sliding the rubber cover from the clutch lever. If the cable end is showing a lot of threads then you can loosen the larger lock nut, a serrated looking wheel with a slot in it, and give the cable end a few turns in. Lock in the lock nut and start the bike and see if the friction zone is catching earlier. Try adjusting to get it to catch within the middle of the travel. Once you feel you have the clutch adjusted, give it a road test to see if the engine will not rev higher without a corresponding increase in motorcycle speed. The owners manual will give you a precise range where the clutch lever free play should fall, usually measured from the end of the clutch lever. If the clutch seems to be adjusted properly, then a worn out clutch could be the problem.

Good luck.

Mar 26, 2011 | Suzuki RG 150 Gamma Motorcycles

1 Answer

Honda nifty bfifty clutch slip, how to adjust or is it oil filled centrifugal clutch, if so how do u fill


Hello David?
Motorcycles have what is called wet clutches. The clutch is bathed in the engine oil(crankcase oil ) To ck the adjustment, squeeze the clutch lever enough to take up any slack. There should be at least 1/4 in freeplay. If no free play the clutch will slip. Too much free play and the clutch won't dis-engage.after verifying free play, Take this part with serious thought. Wet clutches do not like motor oil. It causes the clutch to slip. So, If you have changed oil or have added any and it was not motorcycle engine oil, It is more than likely your problem. You will need to drain the oil and filter and put the right type into the engine. The clutch has np separate oil supply. Lever adjustment should be at the clutch lever clamp. Now what is this 50/50? Good Luck-
Ned

Jan 01, 2011 | Honda Jade Motorcycles

1 Answer

Can't get the clutch on a suzuki 800 intruder to hold pressure


Oil should be 10W40 SF or SG grade. Anything else will cause the clutch to slip. There must be freeplay on the clutch cable (0.4-0.6in). Adjust handle bar clutch lever screw all the way out then adjust at gearbox end and revert to handle bar adjustment for fine adjustments. If this does not solve the problem take the clutch apart and measure driven plate thickness (3.12in minimum for the 1st plate and 2.62in minimum for the others)
Measure clutch spring free length. There are 2 sets (4 springs each). 0.97in minimum and 0.92in minimum respectively.
A slipping clutch is caused by incorrect friction, that is incorrect oil or insufficient pressure. Pressure is supplied by the springs on the discs and driven plates.
If the discs, driven plates or bucket is worn it will cause slippage.
If you pull in the clutch and it disengages but starts to re- engage after a short period you will need to replace the clutch master cylinder seals.

Sep 22, 2010 | 1994 Suzuki VS 800 Intruder

1 Answer

Clutch does not work


A clutch needs freeplay.
But it only needs a half inch or so.
So if there is that much freeplay, leave it.
You want as much clutch travel under pressure as you can get.
If there is not at least a half inch freeplay, then you either lengthen the cable by shortening the sheath adjustment, or shorten the clutch master cylinder rod.

Jul 23, 2010 | 1998 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

1 Answer

I replaced slave cylinder on 1996 gmc pickup know cluch slips


You may have got oil on the pressure plate or clutch. If you did not get into those parts its likely you need to adjust the pedal free play so that there's freeplay for about an inch or so of travel before the clutch disengages. Its engageing and cannot transmit power even though you have not actually depressed the pedal... its already acting thaty way. Its a mechanicalk linkage thats adjustable. If you ahve freeplay, yopu may have an oily disc or pressure platye . These really cannot be cleaned once goten oily they slip

Mar 11, 2010 | GMC Sierra 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Clutch Problems


slave cylinder and line were replaced at a local dealership. Last year prior to the repair the clutch wouldn't disengage once the clutch had warmed up. It was working fine after the repair. Now along with the new problems there is a whining sound at every speed that I travel at. The sound had never been there before. During operation after the bike is moving the bike operates normally no slipping in the clutch no hesitation, operates as normal just doesn't sound normal. I'm thinking about replacing the clutch pack, basket, throwout bearing, and pressure plate bolts, but will all that really solve the problem. Especially since I don't really know whats going on. Sorry for the wordiness but any help would be appreciated,I had a similar symptom after installing a new Barnett clutch pack. The clutch worked fine when fully engaged, finding neutral was fine, etc. However, everynow and then, when taking off from a stop in first, the engagement point would change from the middle of the lever range to the end of the lever range. The first time it happened it caught me out and I almost fell over while trying to take off from an uphill stop and turn. Anyway, I took the clutch pack out, cleaned the friction plates with contact cleaner, cleaned the drive plates with a Scotchbrite pad, and put it back together. The problem has not reoccurred since.,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2001 Ducati 996 S

1 Answer

Clutch Problems


slave cylinder and line were replaced at a local dealership. Last year prior to the repair the clutch wouldn't disengage once the clutch had warmed up. It was working fine after the repair. Now along with the new problems there is a whining sound at every speed that I travel at. The sound had never been there before. During operation after the bike is moving the bike operates normally no slipping in the clutch no hesitation, operates as normal just doesn't sound normal. I'm thinking about replacing the clutch pack, basket, throwout bearing, and pressure plate bolts, but will all that really solve the problem. Especially since I don't really know whats going on. Sorry for the wordiness but any help would be appreciated,I had a similar symptom after installing a new Barnett clutch pack. The clutch worked fine when fully engaged, finding neutral was fine, etc. However, everynow and then, when taking off from a stop in first, the engagement point would change from the middle of the lever range to the end of the lever range. The first time it happened it caught me out and I almost fell over while trying to take off from an uphill stop and turn. Anyway, I took the clutch pack out, cleaned the friction plates with contact cleaner, cleaned the drive plates with a Scotchbrite pad, and put it back together. The problem has not reoccurred since.,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2001 Ducati 996 R

Not finding what you are looking for?
2003 Yamaha YZF-R6 Logo

Related Topics:

51 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Yamaha Experts

dhnguyen

Level 2 Expert

281 Answers

Steve Sweetleaf
Steve Sweetleaf

Level 3 Expert

1144 Answers

Tony

Level 3 Expert

2600 Answers

Are you a Yamaha Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...