Question about 2006 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic
Hi, Yamasuki and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking.
5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
8. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.
9. Intake air leak.
10. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system, carburetor and/or filter.
11. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
12. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
13. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
14. Damaged carburetor.
15. Incorrect valve timing.
16. Weak or broken valve springs.
17. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
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Posted on May 26, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2006 1100 v star
Drain the carburetors. There should be a screw on the lower side of each carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, (not all bikes have a water trap bowl). Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carbs to fill with gas. Install new stock NGK spark plugs and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetors from the engine.
FOR EACH CARB > Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Install an in-line fuel filter. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.
Get back to me if the problem is still there.
Please rate this solution. Thanks!
Posted on Apr 27, 2009
The excess fuel is caused by the float levels being out of adjustment. Fix the floats and the dead spot may disappear. If not, pull the slides and then move the jet needle clip down one notch. With due respect, I would put the bike carbs back to stock. :)
Posted on May 05, 2009
sync 'ing the carbs you need either a manometer or two vacuum GAUGES. pREFERABLY A MANONMETER..iT'S A MATTER OF BALANCING THE CARBS TO HAVE THE SAME VACUUM AT THE SAME POINT OF THROTTLE OPENING.. WHAT IS YOUR LOCATION?
Posted on Jun 12, 2009
you say that it was running well was this before or after the installation of the pipes and rejetting I doubt that the problem is electrical more likely it is sucking air some where in the exhaust system check that the manifolds are firmly secured & that the the clamps secureing the mufflers to the pipes are also firmly secured finaly check that the jets have not worked themselves lose this can sometime happen if they were not tightened well at installation
Posted on Feb 26, 2010
SOURCE: 1984 1100 maxim fuel problem
Carbies will always look clean inside the plunger assembly. fuel does not make it up into there in normal operation. They exists for vacuum operation of the constant velocity plungers to go up and down adjusting the mixture automatically for the engine with different throttle applied. If the bike runs with you spraying carb cleaner into the intake... then thats good... at least it runs for you :)
You need to check that you have the fuel petcock turned to prime initially to be sure that there is gas filling the carbies. Vacuum operated fuel petcocks can become nogo from sitting for extended periods. The bike uses a BS34 Mikuni carb. Parts are pretty good to find for them. They often have a drain screw on the bottom of the float bowl. You can check here to see if fuel is filling the carbies by backing this off a couple of turns, fuel should drain.
Most likely you will need to remove, strip and clean out the carbies thoroughly. They will have varnish from old fuel clogging jets and passageways in the carbs. Only way to do this is remove them and completely disassemble and clean them to be sure that they are good to go. Having a new gasket kit there to do this is often worthwhile. There is also a rubber O ring under the air/fuel idle mixture screw that perishes and will stop the bike from idling correctly.
You can have a read/download of an excellent guide written for the XS650 that uses the same carbies here. It will at least help you to learn what you are dealing with.
Have fun... well it aint much fun rebuilding carbs, but will be worth it to get the bike going again. Cheers
Posted on Apr 17, 2010
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