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1978 kawasaki kawasaki z1r. Have cleaned the front master cylinder with great care.i can not get it to pump fluid into the lines.doing this on the bench with resevoir attached.seals look very good.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: How do i disconnect the oil pump/injection system, Fuel oil ratio

Hi Dan,
Why do you want to disconnect the vital oil supply? If you are experiencing too much blue smoke or plugs oiling you can adjust the amount of oil fed to the engine via the secondary oil pump cable,the one that splits off from the throttle to the carb.
If you disconnect the cable it also stops the oil pump sending oil to inlet, winding out adjuster increases oil screwing in reduces.
As for ratio? trial and error as No knowledge/specification is available for Oil injected engines, poss 25:1 to start but don't blame me if you seize?
Quality synthetic oil is always a must, did you know you can also purchase smokeless two stroke oil?
Good Luck!
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Please remember the Fixya button if my efforts are respected?

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

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SOURCE: Ok yamaha fj 1200 master cylinder prob.

sounds like your line is clogged...can you blow through it?
Did you use all the new parts in the kit?

Posted on Apr 18, 2009

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: clutch master cylinder rebuilt, brand new clutch

Hi there,
Some times the clutch systems needs a vacuum
pump to bleed the system up to pressure. Also
note whilst bleeding the system don't let the reservoir run out of fluid. Also check if there is any other bleed nipples in this system. They all need bleeding.Hope this helps your problem.
Regrades Lighten

Posted on Apr 26, 2009

  • 408 Answers

SOURCE: Rear brake cylinder and bleeding

Relax....KTM's are delicate in this procedure.
First of all make sure that you are using DOT 5.1 brake fluid and not 4 as we use in the Japan models.
Then take the rear caliper in your hands and push the piston all the way in.Then bolt it on its position.
Bolt on the brake hose to the rear caliper tight and leave it loose on the rear master cylinder side (loose but ready to tight it on like half circle loose) and clean up the reservoir completely.
Take a syringe from a pharmacy and a piece of 3mm clear tube.
Start pushing brake fluid in the caliper's loose bleeder until you see fluid coming out fron the hose's loose end on the master cylinder.
The tight the cylinder's bolt and keep pushing fluid until you see it filling up the reservoir.
When you see the reservoir fully filled up, tight the bleeder, take out the syringe and start pressing the brake pedal 15-20 times and the last one keep it down and loose the bleeder (with a tube attached to it and to a bottle) for a sec to relieve the pressure along with any air bubbles.DON'T LIFT THE PEDAL UNTIL YOU HAVE TIGHT BACK THE BLEEDER or the system will **** air in.FIRST tight the bleeder and THEN loose the pedal.
Keep doing that until NO air comes out of the system.
While you are doing this second stage keep filling up the reservoir and do not let the master cylinder **** air in.

Posted on Jun 15, 2009

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SOURCE: Front brake master cylinder wont pump fluid

Yes, you can buy a master cylinder rebuild kit. If you can't find a rebuild kit the whole thing can also be replaced.

Posted on Jun 27, 2009

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Cleaned the master cylinder now brakes wont bleed and blew the lines out

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It sounds as though where the rear brake lines meet up with the master cylinder; there is probably a piece of dirt in the lines that could be blocking any fluid from getting in. To test this, I would remove the brake lines from the master cylinder and then remove the master cylinder. Once done, have the master cylinder cleaned inside out. This will remove the dirt particles that are clogging your lines.

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Two ways of doing this make sure you are using the right brake fluid The bleeder on the calper open up and pull fluid with a fluid pump Get one at auto parts store dont let the master cylinder go dry OR you can fill the calaper through the bleeder and push fluid up to the master cylinder MOPOR KENNY

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Trying to bleed the front brake and having no luck. how is it done?

The reason the system will not pump fluid is because there is air in the master cylinder pump. Typically, air trapped in the master cylinder is the cause of the lack of pressure. Cover your paint and plastic first with a plastic bag and then with a towel in case of spillage. Now loosen the banjo bolt on the master cylinder just enough to let allow fluid to leak out when you pump the master cylinder. Pump the master cylinder until you get a big push of DOT 3/4 brake fluid at the banjo bolt(usually 2 or 3 pumps). Now tighten the banjo bolt and bleed the system (slave cylinder) to get the rest of the air out. Be careful to keep DOT 3/4 brake fluid in the reservoir. Do not pump it dry, if you **** air into the master cylinder you will have to start all over again.

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I am trying to bleed my front brakes and I keep gettting air in the line. when everything is shut and I pump the brake I hear air in the master cylinder. does that mean it is the master cylinder? 1978...

you have to keep master cylinder topped up as you bleed brakes
start at the furthest wheel from master cylinder slow pumps on the pedal holding down as your companion opens open bleed nipple'if your doing it yourself open bleed screw and fit small tube over nipple and put tube into small container half filled with brake fluid and just pump pedal yourself goodluck

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My cheater method involves a lint free cotton sock. Cover cycle with plastic and old towel to protect the paint and plastic.Remove the master reservoir cover and carefully put the sock into the reservoir to soak up all the fluid (Be Careful not to pump the lever at all or air will get into the master). Remove the sock full of fluid and dispose of properly. Refill the reservoir with DOT 3/4 brake fluid. Put a small clear tube on to the slave cylinder bleeder nipple and place the other end in a pan or container. Now loosen the nipple and pump the old fluid out of the system till you see new clean fluid and retighten the nipple. Be careful not to run the reservoir out of fluid (top up as needed) or you will have to start all over). If you do not have pressure at the master cylinder you can bleed the master by loosening the banjo bolt holding the brake hose on and pumping the lever once or twice till the air is out and the unit is pushing fluid. Now bleed the system at the slave cylinder nipple.

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Just remove the lever, gently pull rubber boot out of the body, take a snap ring pliers,and remove the circlip, and pull the piston out of the body. Use the piston as a reference to install the seals correctly on the new piston. Be sure to take out the screw in the reservoir, remove the reservoir, and clean the fluid return pin hole ( Must Be Clear) , next to the large fluid feeder hole. Also using a dowel covered with a lint free cloth gently wipe out the piston sleeve being careful not to scratch the walls ( Do Not Hone The Master Cylinder or it will be ruined). Coat parts with brake fluid before reassembly in reverse order. Cover bike with plastic and put some old rags under master cylinder. Before tightening brake hose bolt, fill the master cylinder with dot 3/4 brake fluid and pump the lever until the master cylinder is pushing fluid out the end where bolt and hose are loosely connected, now tighten bolt holding the brake line on. This will aid greatly in bleeding the system.

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There are two solutions offered here. Please read them both before starting.

1. Find a helper. Take the brake lines back off the master cylinder. Make sure the fluid reservoir is full. wearing safety glasses and rubber gloves press your thumbs on the holes in the master cylinder where the lines hook up. Have your helper push the brake pedal down. Keep doing this until the fluid pressure moves your thumbs away from the master cylinder and squirts out of both the front and rear holes. Work with your helper to hook up the lines without loosing the fluid in the master cylinder. Check the fluid in the master and fill it up. DO NOT ASSUME YOU HAVE BRAKES. Test the brakes carefully. If they are still spongy you have to bleed the lines at the wheels. Start with the longest line and work to the shortest. Bleed all four one at a time until you have a steady stream of fluid coming out when the pedal is pushed. Then carefully test the brakes. If the pedal is good you can drive the vehicle.

2. If you can't find a helper or are worried about fluid squirting around the shop you can do the same thing by making two short lines for the front and rear master cylinder openings and submerging the lines in a pan of fluid. Pump the brakes until no air bubbles up in the fluid and fasten the lines as per above. once again DO NOT ASSUME THAT YOU HAVE BRAKES UNTIL YOU CAREFULLY TEST THEM. Bleed the lines as described above if you are not happy with the pedal feel. Good Luck.

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