A 93 flhs loosing battery charge in less than 2 hour drive..what could it be ....i charge the battery over night and ride it and lights dim after about a 2 hour drive and bike wants to go dead, have to head home .
it a 93 flhs classic, i couldnt find that model in the search so there wont be confusion, its a 1993 flhs classic
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Re: a 93 flhs loosing charge in less than 2 hour
Sounds like your battery is not charging from the engine. Most likely the cause of this is, a faulty Rectifier. I suggest you charge your battery up, put it in the bike and start it up. Using a Volt meter, check the reading, to see if charge is going into the battery, reading should be about 14V with a little rev of the engine. If the reading remains at 12V, then ther is no charge going in. If you have charge going in to your battery at idle, 13.5 - 14Volts, Then i suggest your battery is faulty.
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Depends on what battery. car battery I charge with i 10 means with a current 1 / 10 of the capacity in Ampere hours for 14 hours. So a 80 Ah battery with 8 A for 14 hours.
A camera battery in the charger I got with the camera. Or a good universal charger from GP. A NiMH AA or AAA battery, with a quick charger that at least needs 2 hours to charge. The quick chargers I have that can charge in less than 2 hours (one can manage in 15 minutes) all kill batteries after a few charge cycles. Hope this helps.
To recharge the current taken out of the battery during start up requires at least 10 -15 miles driving. Driving less than that, progressively drains the battery available power until it has not enough power for another start. Such a battery "resting" for more than 10 minute might regain enough power for a start but is inherently flat. Put it on a battery charger for at least 12 hours or go on a 2 hour or more drive. It should be OK for quite a number of starts even when doing short distance driving. If it is showing the same symptoms directly after to 12 hour charge/drive get the battery tested at a garage or battery dealer who will be able to tell if the battery needs replacement. If the battery test OK there might be bigger problems like a blown top gasket or problems with the starter motor.
Hi Anonymous, and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or damaged battery.
2. Loose, corroded or broken battery cable.
3. Alternator not charging or below normal rates.
4. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
5. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Water or dirt in fuel system, carburetor or filter.
8. Fuel tank vent system plugged or gas cap not venting.
9. Fuel tank empty.
10. Fuel valve vacuum line broken or carburator vent line closed off.
11. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
12. Failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
Not recommended. The case would have to be modified to accommodate more cells, the circuit board inside the battery casing may not function properly, and unless you have a commercial dual pulse welder working with Li-ion could ignite. Save time and money and pick up an extended battery such as this one : http://tinyurl.com/pxcpqv9
If the cell phone battery is more than 3 - 4 years old then the battery could be worn out.Rechargeable batteries have a finite number of charge and discharge cycles andwill lose their charge capacity over time, i.e. won't charge to 100% and graduallythe charge reduces until the battery won't charge up at all. OR The batteryshows a 100% charge but when the adapter is disconnected the battery drops offto zero capacity in a very short time. If the battery drops to an unacceptablecharge level then the battery needs to be replaced.
The first thing to check is the charge condition of the battery. If the alternator failed while driving, the battery would drain fairly quickly depending on what was turned on. If the battery is indeed discharged, it needs to be recharged with an external charger--about 8 hours at 2-4 amps, about 2 hours with a high current charger (~20 amps). When the battery is charged, try for start. If it acts ok, then measure the battery voltage with the engine running--it should read 13.5 volts or more if the alternator is working. If the alternator is in trouble, you will likely read 12.6 volts or less. Take the truck to Autozone or similar business that gives free checks on the charging system. If the alternator developed a shorted diode, it will cause a fusable link in the wiring harness to burn out (like a fuse), but is more trouble and money to replace. The alternator must be replaced before the link is replaced. Hope this helps!