Question about 2002 Triumph Daytona 955i

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2002 Daytona 955i I have replaced the Stator and Reg/Rec as well as wired the Reg/Rec direct to the battery for both lines. New Reg/Rec runs cool now. Problem is I cannot get a 13.6+ voltage at the battery. I suspect something is drawing too much current to get the voltage up. Non of the fuses are blowing or running excessively hot now. I have tried pulling the fuses with the bike running to try to localize the "Problematic" circuit. Non of the non-essential circuits are giving me the problem. I have had the new stator and Reg/rec retested by the supplier and both supposedly are good. Any ideas where to look? Thanks, Bill

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  • Triumph Master
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Check the ignition lamp extinguishes when the engine is running.

Posted on Apr 03, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: stator repair

from what I am reading I should not be surprised. I was going to take it out and either rebuild it or get one off of Ebay but at first glance it looks more complicated than I thought. I have completed an electrical check regulator/stator connections look great but only get 5-22 vac off of stator and not consistent with rpm. How do I remove the stator? Any gaskets or things I should be careful of? Any pics out there of the covers removed? ,I think the stators on the 98's are oddballs, in that they produce a different wattage then others. New have more wattage, older ones have less. Either way, it's pretty much the same for replacement. You'll need to pull the left side case cover, to do that you need a case puller tool or you can make one. You can't get it off with a screwdriver or chisle. Well, maybe you can, but it'll be FUBAR. A puller plate bolts to the exiting holes for the crank shaft cover plate, 5 mm countersunk maybe? Between those two holes is a tapped hole, like 1/2-13 or 5/8-11 x 2 long bolt. That bolt will screw against the crankshaft, pulling the left side cover off. The plate thickness should be 3/8 steel or 1/2 aluminum. Throughly clean the engine cases. Remove shift linkage, clutch slave, drain radiator and all the bolts holding the left side cover on. There are a lot (15 -16?) make sure you get them all, especially near the countershaft sprocket and clutch slave area. The cover should slide off the engine dowel pins with a minimal amount of muscle on a 8 adjustable wrench. If not, you missed a bolt. Some oil will leak out when the cover is removed. The stator is held in the case cover by two or three bolts. Measure the height of stator in the case for reference. It should slide out of the case with the bolts removed. It's a tight fit, but not a press fit. Try these guys for rewinding or they may have a replacement stator in stock. www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com Reassemble in reverse. Make sure the stator sits squarly in the case, not cocked to one side. Confirm the measured height. The stator/magnet will pull the cover off center. Use a rubber mallet to tap the cover into place, using the dowel pins for visual alignment. I use permatex blue to seal the case when reassembling. It's not that difficult to do, just time consuming, maybe 3 - 4 hours to get the cover off.,,,

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 2336 Answers

SOURCE: stator

Behind the left engine cover. The engine must be almost completely removed to change it out.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: change a stator

First secure the bike on a lift. disconnect battery.remove standard footpeg.Remove standard shifter. Remove all allen head bolts from outer primary cover. Some bolts are longer so keep track of where they go.Two bolts on the primary inspection cover also hold the outer to the inner primary case, so remove the cover.Now remove the outer primary case.The clutch,primary chain,adjuster, and compensating sprocket must be reoved as a single unit.Once you have done this take a rag and grasp the rotor and slide it off of the main engine shaft.Unplug the stator and remove the set screws holding it in place.Reverse procedure to install new stator.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 2712 Answers

SOURCE: change a stator

First secure the bike on a lift. disconnect battery.remove standard footpeg.Remove standard shifter. Remove all allen head bolts from outer primary cover. Some bolts are longer so keep track of where they go.Two bolts on the primary inspection cover also hold the outer to the inner primary case, so remove the cover.Now remove the outer primary case.The clutch,primary chain,adjuster, and compensating sprocket must be reoved as a single unit.Once you have done this take a rag and grasp the rotor and slide it off of the main engine shaft.Unplug the stator and remove the set screws holding it in place.Reverse procedure to install new stator.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

  • 48 Answers

SOURCE: I have an oil leak from where the stator wires come out.

you have some seals that are leaking from around the crankshaft the stator is supposed to be sealed from the oil you wont have to change the stator just the crank seal

Posted on Feb 27, 2009

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Triumph Daytona 955i speedometer reading approximately 50% faster than it should


Hi, Neil you got apples and oranges here for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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2 Answers

Headlight not working on a 2002 triumph 955i any suggestions


Hi, Rhonda if your headlight is not working, keeps burning out, blinking, or is dim the first thing you need to check is the headlight bulb for damaged filaments then check your light circuit fuse, that being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty ground or power supply wire to headlight bulb socket.
2. Worn, chaffed, or broken wires in the light circuit.
3. Corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets in wire connectors.
4. Faulty hi/lo beam switch.
5. Faulty ignition switch.
6. Fuse is good but no continuity on both sides.
7. Faulty wiring between battery positive and headlight bulb socket.
8. Weak charging alternator/generator.
9. Faulty voltage regulator/rectifier, overcharging.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
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1 Answer

No speedo replaced stator and rect last summer


Hi. It will be the sensor on the front wheel, it may need a clean but be very careful as it is very fragile. If it is broken then just superglue it up and put back in carefully. Hope this helps

Mar 12, 2013 | 2002 Triumph Daytona 955i

1 Answer

How do you know if a reg/rec has gone


Hi, Derek before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage and must be replaced AGM types more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

2004 Triumph daytona 955i. 4000 miles. Was riding and all of a sudden bike dies, no power to lights speedo or any gauges, starter button wouldnt work. Pushed home and turned key on all lights worked and...


Hi, The_redneckc and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary your battery may show 12.5 volts or more but have little or zero amps and must be replaced.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Fuel tank empty.
10. Fuel tank contaminated with ethanol sludge.
11. Water or dirt in the fuel system, or clogged filter.
12. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
13. Faulty fuel pump.
14. Faulty pressure regulator.
15. Faulty or clogged fuel injectors.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Apr 17, 2017 | 2004 Triumph Daytona 955i

2 Answers

Hi having problems with the speedo on my 2002 Triumph Daytona 955i the speedo dos'nt work at all sometimes and when it does its way out, wondering if anyone has any ideas. Cheers


This is a common problem with the Daytona's 2002+. Typically its the charging system and if the battery level gets below 12v the instrument panel will not function properly (LED display will read or flash something other than what is normal). Recommend charging the battery and checking the voltage @ the battery while running. If voltage drops as RPM increase: Replace reg/rect. The Stator my also go bad too. Too T/S (remove tail section disconnect the 3 wire connector coming from the stator and pin check a/c voltage across two pins at a time. check condition of connector and wires, if it feels stiff and brittle replace wire loom and check 3 pin connector under the fuel tank. If still bad, should be Approx 45v a/c @ idle, replace stator OR send it out for a re-wind. It's cheaper more durable and you get a 1 year warranty. I recommend Custom re-wind for this.

Owner of a 2002 50K+ mile and still runs like new

Feb 16, 2010 | 2002 Triumph Daytona 955i

2 Answers

My hayabusa is still not charging the battery after the mechanic change the stator.


you may have a faulty reg/rec as well but get the wiring check to the reg/rec to.

Oct 25, 2009 | 2000 Suzuki GSX 1300 R Hayabusa

1 Answer

Hello.. 2oo8 triumph bike just shut down at the worst time


Need to check and measure the generator's stator for correct current supply and install new regulator/rectifier and battery.

Jun 18, 2009 | 2004 Triumph Daytona 955i

2 Answers

Battery not charging 03 955i


sounds like the regulator rectifier has gone bad, but the first thing I would do is get my hands on a manual for quick reference d see if its something simple that you could do yourself like replacing the regulator.

Nov 23, 2008 | 2006 Triumph Daytona 955i

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