Question about 2005 Yamaha V Star 1100 Custom

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Transmission Noise -

Letting off the throttle causes a loud bearing grind kind of noise in the transmission. Pulling in the clutch, coasting, you can hear it not applied and spinning freely - sound is reduced and intermittent. At a complete stop, bike doesn't make the noise, included when engine is revved, so it's definitely in the gear box. I'm assuming this is some kind of bad bearing. Any thoughts?

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Hi, Fichmann I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
1. Bearings---SCREECH
2. Belts---CHIRP
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Chains---RATTLE
5. Clutches---CHATTER
6. Cylinders---PING
7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
8. Fronk Forks---Plunk
9. Gears---WHINE
10. Head Gasket---HISS
11. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
12. Pistons---SLAP
13. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
14. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
15. Solid Lifters---TICK
16. Starters---CLICK
17. Connecting Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
2006 yamaha vstar 1100 noise when decelerating
Yamaha XVS1100 Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
YAMAHA XVS1100 Owner Manual

Posted on May 28, 2017


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  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Loud sound while engaging into gear..etc...

The clunk is normal for this bike ,it is a Virago .You can adjust the clutch but unless it sounds like it is slipping and is shifting fine I would leave it alone.If you think your bike is out of time , on the left side,kickstand side,there is a side cover and in the center of that cover are two plugs one above the other with a slot for a straight screw driver . one is a sight hole to check your time ane the other is to get to the flywheel bolt to line up your timing mark .When you look at the top of the back cylinder head you will see two allen bolts inside the cooling fins.You can take the vacuum hose off and the top of this head and in behind it is your timing gear .Turn the bolt in the center of the lower cover on the crank ane line it up with the T and you should be on top dead center , check the timing gear and the dot on the gear should be lined up with the arrow made into the flange of the inside of that head.If everything lines up you are in time on both cylinders.You can also hook a timing light up and check it.Oh by the way if you try to turn the crank bolt it turns clockwise and it will be easier to turn if you take out your spark plugs.I would check my fuel and see if it might be running rich (too much gas or float level)

Posted on Mar 27, 2009

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: 1989 Virago XV250 bottom end noise

my 82 seca had an issue similar to this one. It turned out to be the tachometer cable. i would try lubeing it with some good lube. then go from there.

Posted on Jul 09, 2009

  • 11896 Answers

SOURCE: i have a droning noise off front of bike if i

It would either be the front bearing or brake dragging. You should be able to grease it.

Posted on Sep 23, 2009

  • 376 Answers

SOURCE: Clicking noise from rear wheel

Is your bike chain drive? It sound like you have a link in the chain hanging up. Check it and lube it.

Posted on Oct 18, 2009

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SOURCE: grinding/growling noise when making a turn with

This noise may be from afew things the most common would be a bad wheel bearing, the other would be the 4wheel drive is engaging and disengaging, i would start by checking the bearing, check up front wheels and shake tire in and out from the top and bottom, there should be no movement there. if the wheel moves in and out then the bearing is bad, sometimes it may be tight and still be bad. the best way to check this would be on a lift with the wheels spinning. hope this helps.

Posted on Aug 28, 2010

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see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Tub Bearing If the washer is making a loud noise the tub bearing might be worn out, this is a common problem. The bearing can be replaced.

Clutch If the washer is making a loud noise in the spin cycle, the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may become loud during spin or just after the spin cycle finishes. The clutch is not repairable, if it is loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced.

Drive Belt If the washer is making a loud noise the drive belt might be defective. Over time the drive belt will dry out and start cracking, eventually a piece of the belt can break off resulting in a loud noise whenever the motor is running.

Transmission If the washer is making a loud noise the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are many other more likely causes for noise from a washer. If the noise turns out to be caused by the transmission it may have to be replaced.

Transmission If the washer is making a loud noise the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are many other more likely causes for noise from a washer. If the noise turns out to be caused by the transmission it may have to be replaced.

Drive Motor If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

Water Inlet Valve If the washer is noisy or loud, particularly when the washer is filling, the water inlet valve is at fault. Replace it.

Tub Seal and Bearing Kit If the washer is making a loud noise the tub seal and bearing kit may need to be replaced. This is a common problem and the parts are relatively easy to replace.
Rear Drum with Bearing If the washer is making a loud noise the rear drum with bearing might need to be replace. On this washer the bearing is not sold separately, the entire rear drum will have to be replaced. This is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. However, the problem is going to get worse very quickly and so either the drum and bearing will need to be replaced or the washing machine.

Bearing If the washer is making a loud noise the bearing might be worn out. As bearings wear out from friction they gradually get worse and worse until they fail. In the meantime they get louder. If the noise primarily happens during the spin cycle the bearing is likely the problem.
Drive Pulley If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.

Pulley If the washer is making a loud noise the pump may be worn out, or something might be caught in it. Remove the pump and inspect it for debris. If it is clear and the blades spin freely the problem might be somewhere else.
U-Joint Kit If the washer is making a loud noise the U-Joint may have failed. This is the primary drive mechanism for the agitation motion in this washer. Although this is not a very difficult repair for a DIY'er with some experience, the part is expensive and so it may be worth considering a new washer.

Motor Coupling If the washer is making a loud noise the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission


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My 1995 n14 sss pulsar makes a really weird noise when putting the clutch in and changing gear

This noise is due to a part called the clutch release bearing being worn out. You must remove the transmission to replace it.

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1988 Subaru Dl Transmission

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