Question about 1994 Triumph Trophy 900

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Battery loosing charge.

I have a 1997 Triumph Trophy 1200. Beginning this season I had front fork seals, chain and sprocket replaced. After getting the bike back, I experienced starting problems, low cranking power. Thinking the battery had been drained I charged it up. The bike ran great for a few days, then low cranking power again. I installed a trickle charger, plugged it in every night and all is good. Last week on a full charge the bike died, as in lost all power while at highway speed. This past weekend I installed a new, fully charged battery and within an hour and a half, the bike lost all power and shut down again. I have checked the fuses in the upper panel and all are good. Where do I go now?

Rodney M. Orr

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  • Triumph Master
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Hi, Rodneyo the following is a comprehensive charging system test that is guaranteed to the find issue with your system.
1. Battery Test: The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter lead.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator IB test or Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Charging System Diagnostics Rectifier Regulator Upgrade Triumph Forum...
http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/Other-Stuff/VS-1100-chagre-syst.pdf
http://www.triumphriders.nl/FoldersPDF/Daytona_900-1200_(1993-1997)_Service_Manual_(eng).pdf
Welcome to CalMoto Triumph Parts We are your source for original Triumph...
Triumph Trophy Handbook

Posted on Mar 27, 2017

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  • Contributor
  • 36 Answers

Check your alternator/stator plate is putting current to the battery my guess is its goosed / multimeter across batery terminals should read 14.2 volts when engine is running if not its stator plate /check all terminals 1st with wd40 then chack again if it still persist then its ur stator burnt a coil

Posted on Mar 27, 2017

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DoubleClutch
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SOURCE: triumph 900 trophy, fires on two cylinders, third fires on &off

Its a carbonation problem or ignition problem.

Posted on Sep 30, 2009

Testimonial: "thanks i know this it was finding it ,have sorted it ,was a coil braking down ."

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SOURCE: Triumph Trophy 1200.... The battery is drained of power

You have a pretty heavy drain on your battery. Find the fuse box. Remove all the fuses. With volt/ohm meter, read each fuse socket to find which one is drawing the power - when you find it ... investigate the circuit to find the short.

It may be that you are not making power ... your rectifier may be shorted which not only prohibits charging ... in some circumstances, it will actually cause a short to ground.

Posted on Jul 05, 2010

19ken55
  • 426 Answers

SOURCE: Leeking fork seal. Triumph Trophy 1200. Disacembly

Did not see our bikes manual (I may have missed it) You can download a similar bike or request your own

http://www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/index.php

Posted on Feb 08, 2011

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Try watching this video as a guide https://youtu.be/vrmYJgcGX30

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Jul 17, 2011 | 1996 Triumph Trophy 1200

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When I take off in first gear every single time then there is a clicking sound that almost sounds like the chain is getting caught on something. It does not hold back from excelerating although the noise...


Thanks for the inquiry!
From your information I can't tell if this is a off-road bike or a street bike. With the extended swing arm I'm suspecting off-road. In either case it's very much same issues. You have two issues and we will deal with them separately.
Chain catching sound:
In low gear when you have maximum torque applied to your rear sprocket & wheel many times the primary sprocket (smallest one under the engine side cover) will slip and actually jump teeth. You indicated this is the third season, so it's seen a lot of wear. It would also explain that when you adjust/ tighten the chain tensioner the noise is gone as the front sprocket is not slipping in the chain. If this happens a couple of times the front sprocket is ruined. Pull the front sprocket cover and inspect the teeth. The teeth will be smooth and ground away if this has occurred. Most off-road riders go through 1 - 2 sprocket and chain sets per season with the abrasion form the sand and mud if they are serious about their riding. Replace front sprocket or both sprockets & chain.
Other possibilities are that you have lost your chain guide or the plastic wear plates inside the chain guide are gone and the chain is banging against the metallic sides or your swing arm making the chain jumping sound you have described. Replace the guide or wear plates to solve this.
Whooping sound on front of bike while coasting: This familiar sound appears to be related to your front wheel. The best way to test this is to set your bike on a bench, crate, or test stand so the front wheel/tire is off the floor/ground and spin the wheel. Your rim may be bent allowing the tire to rub against the fork tubes or front fender making the whooping sound. The engine noise drown's it out under power but noise is audible when coasting with the clutch in and engine idling. The simple fix is a spoke tightening and adjustment to properly true the wheel. You will hear if its a bearing or something else being rubbed against by a wooble or something out of round (run out) causing the whooping sound.
I hope I've provided you useful assistance and that this information allows you to make an informed decision as to how to proceed from here. Please be sure to vote on my response. I hope I've earned a good rating from you today.
Please post a comment if you need additional assistance so that I can help you further.
Happy cycling,
TF

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2 Answers

How easy is it to replace my fork seals on my 1993/4 900 trophy?


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May 10, 2011 | 1994 Triumph Trophy 900

2 Answers

Leeking fork seal. Triumph Trophy 1200. Disacembly procedure please


Did not see our bikes manual (I may have missed it) You can download a similar bike or request your own

http://www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/index.php

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