My timing chain was old and stretched, So i bought a new one and installed it. The timing is right. (TDC and the dots on the cam's is on the right position, I've done it according the workshop manual).
Anyway's when all that was done i've started the quad. The quad is not idling but when i push the throttle in it starts and after a few seconds it just cuts out, And im not leaving the throttle. I hold oit in one place and it starts an cut out in the same throttle position.
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With setting the cams it can only be right or wrong there is not really any way to be a little out unless the cam chain itself is severely over stretched...
set (I) mark on fly wheel to be visible within the marks on the inspection hole of ignition cover (always a good idea to cross reference TDC by probing the piston through spark plug hole as I have seen many flywheels shear their woodruff keys and give incorrect TDC readings) any how, once at TDC set the cams ( lobes facing outwards with the dots on each cam aligning best you can with the head. with your finger take out the slack of the cam chain through the tensioner hole and double check all dots and (I) mark on fly wheel still all line up correctly - if so then your good to button all back up...
Don't be alarmed if takes a few goes it's perfectly normal to have at least couple of attempts to get all correct.
You want your valve clearances to be 0.20 on the exhaust and 0.10 on the intake side a tiny amount bigger gap is kind of OK but never smaller or you will do damage !
Backfire although can be caused by timing out or valves clearance incorrect in my experience is nearly always due to lean on fuel, could be worth double checking your pilot jet and circuit is all clear - compressed air cleaning them is best or stick new pilot jet in to be fool proof ! and air clean the hole the pilot jet screws into..
Happy to elaborate on any points if needs be, just let me know
good luck regards Jamie
When this occurs, the timing chain has stretched to the point where you'll never get the valve timing exactly right. I'd replace the chain, they're cheap enough (about 25 bucks) and I bet it will line up spot on. Have removed some Honda timing chains that were almost stretched a full link longer than the new one I was installing. Good luck!
There should be some bolts that allow you to tighten the bar, and a slot that allows the bar to slide when you loosen the bolts. Also, there should be some kind of adjusting screw that allows you to tighten the chain. To remove the old chain and install the new chain, you'll need to completely back off any tension on the adjuster, allowing the bar to move TOWARD the chain saw. You should keep the chain oiled, and whenever it stretches, even a little, you should adjust the chain according to the owners manual too keep it at the right tension. The two mounting slots are usually aligned with something that will keep the chain bar straight; such as a bolt or perhaps a pin in the motor assembly.
If you've never done this before and you're not familiar with your bike I'd strongly suggest getting a shop to do it. It's hard enough to do even if you do have cam sprocket markings . . . .
However if you want to do it yourself then you need to do a few things before you start. First you need to be absolutely certain where top dead centre is. Usually you can get this from the crank rotor markings, or do it the old fashioned way with a long bolt down the spark plug hole and wind the piston until it just touches the bolt from both directions. Then mark the spot half way between which will be TDC.
Now you know TDC, you also need to ensure that the cams are on TDC for the compression stroke of cylinder 1. When the engine is on compression stroke, the cam lobes will be pointing slightly away from each other and will not be near the bucket/cam follower. Once you have the crank exactly in the right position you need to make your own cam sprocket markings so that you can put the cams back in exactly as you found them. ALWAYS crank the motor forwards while doing this or you can put slack in to the chain which will give you a false result and might result in you getting your cam timing wrong.
When you are checking the timing after you put the new chain in, you have to wind the motor backwards well past TDC and then wind it back forwards to TDC to check the sprocket markings are the same as when you made them. You also need to have the cam chain tensioner fully installed during this check to get the correct timing specs.
If you're not confident about this then I would get help from a friend or take it to a bike shop. I bought a motor once that had incorrect cam timing. The exhaust cam was out half a tooth. Fixed it and got 17 more rear wheel horsepower. That's how much cam timing matters. Get it 1 tooth out and your bike will run like **** or possibly not even start.
The timing chain is not that fine, nor do you care about advance with the chain. A single link on the chain is more like 15 degrees, and you will have no trouble deciding which is the best fit. TDC is always 0, and never 4 degrees advanced. It is the ignition that is advanced, not the chain. To advance the breathing you would need to either change the cam, or get a variable chain sprocket. But again, you can not tell 4 degrees when putting a chain on. It changes that much at least when you take the slack out.
Is this a 360 v8 engine? Timing chains rarely fail to the point that they fall apart, generally the gears wear and the chain stretches out and the engine won't run properly before the chain itself comes apart. Finding links in the pan tells me something really bad previously happened in there. In spinning a bearing, metal is transmitted throughout the entire oiling system and without a total rebuild, the engine will never be "right". During a severe overheat the timing chain can relax and not be tight enough to keep cam timing in phase, additionally the piston rings can relax and not be giving you sufficient compression. Timing is set by bringing the engine up to TDC at the crankshaft at which point the distributor will either be pointing to the #1 tower on the dist cap or it will be pointing 180 degrees away from #1 in which case, just turn the engine one more time again stopping at TDC. If then the rotor is not pointing to #1 you need to move the distributor one tooth over to get that corrected. I am assuming that you did check the alignment of cam and crank gears when you had the chain out. Regardless of if the timing is set correctly, you should be getting spark at all cylinders. If not you need to find out why.
yes it is very possilbe that it bent the valves as these cars do that when the timing belt goes. i reccomend taking off the head and taking it to a machine shop to eveluate. it is easier and cheaper as you do not have the proper equipment to do so. also replace water pump and head gasket as well. nothing is wrong with the bottom end of the motor. it is the head