Question about 1998 Suzuki GSX-R 600

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1998 gsxr 600 brakes lock on, new master and

1998 suzuki gsxr 600 rear brakes lock on, new master and cleaned caliper but wont bleed now, do i have to use a power bleeder or is there a possible block or something not allowing fluid to flow properly?????

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  • robert nixon Jul 05, 2010

    well i got there after the fact but a bike shop had bled the system with a power bleeder since the master was replaced but ti was still locking up so i cleaned the caliper and after that it would not bleed the old fashion way at all but i will try to take a closer look and make sure the master was bled properly and there is no issues with the rubber line or how the master was installed not sure if there is much you could do wron but who knows lol... thank you though i appreciate your input,,
    ttyl
    Rob

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Hi, If there is excessive air in your system after reassembly of master cylinder, the lever will have a spongy feeling about it and possible inconsistency or will have travel, bleeding the hydraulic system is best carried out by two people, remove the reservoir lid, top up over half and replace lightly to keep out dust, get a old glass jar, and a clear pipe that pushes down into the top of the bleeder valve, which is on top of the caliper block, and sink pipes other end into a little brake fluid in the glass, ensure there is always sufficient brake fluid in the reservoir tank, top up later if needed, use open spanner for bleeder valve, unscrew the bleeder valve one half turn and squeeze the brake lever as far as it will go, but do not release it until the bleeder valve is tightened again, repeat this a few times until a no more air bubbles come from the plastic pipe. Also, ensure all other joints are secured in this brake system, When all the bubbles disappear, close the bleeder valve, remove the pipe and install the bleeder valve dust cap. Check the fluid level in the reservoir, after the bleeding operation has been complete. Reinstall the Diaphragm, and the cap. Do not use the brake fluid drained from system as it contains minute air bubbles. There was the question of the locking pads, after the air is removed from the calipers, and there is still a prob, I might have the answer

Posted on Jul 05, 2010

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Brake fluid will eat away at plastic and paint!
Wipe any spilled fluid with the rag and lots of water.

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Attach the brake bleeding kit to the brake fluid nipple located on the brake caliper.

Loosen the nipple so the fluid is free to flow down the brake bleeding kit tube and into the small container

Remove the master cylinder cap (top) so you can monitor and refill more brake fluid into the master cylinder as you bleed the brakes.

Pump the brake lever so the old/new brake fluid is forced through the tube into the brake bleeding kit fluid container

Keep the volume of the master cylinder constant (near full) as to not have it empty. Keep pumping on the brake lever until the fluid coming out is clear (rather than the old brown/black colour).

Once all the tiny air bubbles are gone hold pressure on the brake level and re-tighten the brake fluid nipple to close it off.

Replace the master cylinder top cover.

Remove the brake bleeding kit from the caliper and use the rag and water to clean up any spillage.



Alternately, you can pump the pedal once, open the bleeder then shut it, pump the pedal again, open the bleeder and shut it and continue (adding as necessary) until the fluid is clear.

The advantage to doing it this way is much less pumping to get the air out of the lines you created when you first started on the first method.

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