Question about 2003 Yamaha YZ 125

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I went to clean my carburetor and after reinstalling my throttle got stuck. I pulled the carburetor off again and tried to pull out the part(don't know the name of the part but its the end of the throttle cable) that goes into the top of the carburetor will not come off. Is there a certain way that the piece the the throttle cable is attached to goes into the carburetor?

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  • Master
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It dependes on the type of carb,some have a butterfly arm and cable slots into reses,some,the cable goes into top of carb,then the nipple on the cable slots into a slot cut in the slide inside the carb barrel

Posted on Jul 03, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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How to put throttle back together.


REQUIRED TOOLS: 10mm T-handle, 8mm T-handle, Phillips-head screwdriver, contact cleaner, 4mm Allen wrench, 10mm box-end wrench, cable lubing tool, cable lube, Pro Circuit Red Lube (or equivalent)

STEP 1:
Start by removing the seat and fuel tank in order to gain the access needed to remove the throttle cables at the carburetor. Next, jump up to the handlebars, pull back the throttle dust cover, and loosen the two bolts that are holding the two halves of the throttle housing together. With the end of the throttle tube now exposed, pull the cable ends (balls) out of the throttle tube. The tube and grip are now free to slide off the end of the bar. Now that everything is apart and exposed, clean the inside of the two throttle housing pieces, the throttle tube, and the ends of the throttle cables with some contact cleaner. Also, clean the handlebar of any dirt and grime that may be present.
STEP 2:
On the right side of the carburetor you'll find a single 4mm Allen bolt that secures a plastic dust cover. Remove the bolt and pop the cover off. With the cover removed, the ends of the two cables can now be accessed. Starting with the top cable, use a 10mm wrench to loosen the lock nut, and the cable end can be pulled off of the carburetor wheel. Repeat this process for the bottom cable. Next, while paying attention to the cable routing, bend back the flexible cable guides that are located on the frame near the headset, and pull the cables up and out of the bike.
STEP 3:
It's time to lube the cables. Because of the hardened metal elbows located near where the cables go into the throttle housing, I recommend lubing the carburetor end of the cables where a cable-lubing tool can be easily fastened. Note: It's important to only use a minimal amount of cable lube. Because these are throttle cables, excess lube will eventually run its way down and into the carburetor. It won't necessarily damage anything, but it will make a mess. Be sure to lube both cables. Holding the cables together, feed them back into the bike from the same spot you pulled them out near the handlebars. Rout them back in so they are tucked up tight against the right side of the frame to keep them out of the way of the fuel tank once it's installed.
STEP 4:
Before putting the throttle assembly back together, we recommend using Pro Circuit Red Lube or an equivalent on all of the moving throttle parts (the inside of the housing pieces and their edges, the balls of the cables and their slots in the throttle tube, etc.). Also, on the inside of the throttle tube put a small amount of cable lube so that it doesn't go on dry against the bar. Because you can put the cables on backwards at the carburetor, start your reassembbly at the handlebar. With the throttle tube on the bar so that the cable ball slots are facing down, slide the cable ends back into the tube, and rout the cables back through the tube tracks. The cables can only go back onto the throttle tube one way. Once in place, line up the two halves of the throttle housings, and get the two Phillips bolts started without tightening them completely. To prevent binding and rubbing, push the tube and housing assembly together until it bottoms out against the end of the bar. Now, back the assembly off the end of the bar 1 to 2mm so that there is proper clearance to twist freely. Now tighten the housing bolts securely.
STEP 5:
Before heading back down to the carburetor, push the throttle tube all the way forward until it stops. This will not only show you which cable to install first at the carb, but will also give you the proper slack needed to do it. At the carburetor, one cable will now be sticking out of the cable housing farther than the other. The longer one (the one with the most slack) is the one you'll start with. It is the bottom or "pull cable. There is a 10mm nut that is thinner (not the locking nut), which slides into the groove on the carb. With the ball of the cable reinstalled on the throttle wheel, and the flat 10mm nut in its housing, tighten the 10mm locking nut to secure the cable. Next, turn the throttle tube back a little bit to take out the excess slack, which in turn will give you the slack needed to install the top or "push cable, and repeat the same process. I like to keep the gap between the 10mm locking nut and the longer 10mm adjusting nuts that are connected to the cable even between the two cables. Because most of the cable adjustment is done at the bar, you don't need a lot of gap (2-3mm) between the locking nut and the adjusting nut of each cable. Once adjusted evenly, reinstall the dust cover and tighten the 4mm Allen bolt.
STEP 6:
If you don't have a personal preference for the amount of throttle play (movement front to back), I recommend about 2-3mm of wiggle, at most. To adjust the play, there's a finger locking nut and an adjusting nut just behind where the cables enter the throttle housing. If you want more slack (play) in your throttle, spin the adjusting nut in toward the throttle. For less slack, back it out. Because it's a push/pull style system, you have to adjust both cables evenly until you get the feel you're looking for. After you've achieved your ideal amount of play, reinstall the fuel tank and the seat. Now that everything is back together, turn your bars from side to side to make sure that the cables aren't binding anywhere, and then recheck the throttle play and adjust again if needed.

Mar 17, 2016 | Garden

1 Answer

Rpms are sticking. They do not go down when car is idle.


Not sure of year model of car but some vehicles have a return spring to pull the throttle down, which can break. You should get some throttle body cleaner if your vehicle has one and clean same. If you have a carburetor get carburetor cleaner and spray mechanism which moves when accelerator pushed and also spray down throat of carburetor. Many people cause a vehicle fire by cleaning carburetors while the engine is running. Do NOT oil any throttle parts.

Mar 03, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

How can I free both the stuck choke pullout lever and the on/off switch on my Poulan Pro 18" chainsaw? I tried using the start handle pull to rotate the engine, which turns normally, but switches are still...


This is a carburetor linkage problem and pulling engine though with the starter will not have any effect.

Check all the linkage at the carburetor for problems. Also try pulling the throttle trigger and may sure it operating the carburetor.

Aug 14, 2014 | Poulan Garden

2 Answers

Spear and jackson, sht26X, the throttle won't


I suggest taking the handle apart to see if anthing is blocking the action of the trigger from inside, like some debris. Then see if the throttle cable moves if you pull it. If necessary keep tracking it back to the carburetor, maybe there is a piece of debris in there blocking the throttle lever on the carburetor.

Sep 16, 2011 | Garden

2 Answers

Pb-413h echo back pack blower bogs down when throttle is applied , idles fine .


This is usually caused by one of two problems. First, the exhaust may be plugged. Pull the screws out of the small screen in the exhaust and wire brush the screen. Reinstall and try again. I had one where some bee's built a nest in the exhaust, no tcommon though.
Second, teh fuel pump in the carburetor may be on its way out. It may provide enough fuel to run at idle but not at high speed. You may need a carburetor rebuild.
Good luck!

Feb 15, 2011 | Garden

1 Answer

My 031 stihl chainsaw trigger is stuck in a full open postion, is it a spring or what


Expose the carburetor and try pulling lightly on the throttle cable--if it won't pull, the trigger assembly is probably full of sawdust. In that case, remove the handle cover over the trigger (record the position of all parts before trying to take anything apart to clean). You should be able to see any blockage, clean it, and re-assemble it correctly. Check the trigger operation at the carburetor to make sure that it is traveling fully from idle to full speed. Hope this helps!

Nov 19, 2010 | Husqvarna Garden

2 Answers

3 weeks ago I had my coleman 5000 generator in to be fixed. The man flushed the gas tank, replaced the carb, did a tune up,changed the spark plug, and did an oil change. When I went out to start it a few...


You got spark & compression
The air filter is not an issue
You got clean fuel
You got oil and the machine is not freezing
Sounds like the exhaust port is open and free

Fuel is the only suspect remaining

Pull off the fuel line and see if gas flows to carburetor.
Pull off gas filter and see if gas flows free
Try some gum out

Now here's something we discovered.
Our machine wouldn't run on full throttle.
We had to set it at half throttle, and it ran like a top for years.

Try messing with the throttle settings to find a setting that works.
Finally, if none of the above work, it must be the carburetor.

Oct 21, 2010 | Coleman Powermate Premium Plus 6250W...

1 Answer

335 while using suddenly went exessive speed soswitched off now wont run at all


Excess uncontrolled speed is either a severe air leak between the carburetor and the cylinder, or the throttle mechanism is jammed by something--usually the trigger assembly is full of sawdust or dirt. Remove the air cleaner from the carburetor so that you can observe the short throttle arm on the carburetor. Pull the trigger and release--the arm should move to the full throttle limit projection on the carburetor body, then fall back to the idle speed screw when released. If it hangs in between either position and nothing around the carburetor is causing such (such as a damaged return spring at the arm), then open the trigger mechanism in the handle and clean out any debris. Make sure to note the position of all parts. If nothing appears to be amiss, then try to move the carburetor body--any apparent movement should be investigated. Some saws use a rubber isolation device that prevents vibrating the carburetor during operation, and these sometimes will crack the rubber sleeve or seals causing excess air leakage. If damaged in any way, replace it. Other problems could include a broken screw holding the carburetor in place. Hope some of this helps!

Jun 18, 2010 | McCulloch Garden

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