Question about 2003 Triumph Speedmaster

2 Answers

Triumph speedmaster won't fire on one cylinder, new coil, checked ground to ignition box on both cylinders. Has cut off and on since purchased (at 3500 miles) on the right side.

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  • Dave Yarborough Jul 03, 2010

    dont know if this will help but some bikes shut down on one cylinder if the battery is low ,like my kawaski ,i dont know why ?? my friends virago does the same thing?' ,I would suggest that you look for a owners web site or something on the internet and hopefully another owner has had this problem before and can help more than myself ,usual story iam afraid and that is if i had the bike in front of me i might be able to dertimine whats wrong but without seeing it and getting my greasy hands on it ??
    Jul 03, 2010 - Thanks. Battery is full I checked it (and starts quickly, bright lights etc). As I noted shortly after I purchased the bike it would cut out on the right cylinder, but would eventually skip a few times at highway speed, then go back to full power. I thought it was carburetion (trash) or the spark plug. I checked carb,replaced plug and it didn't do it for awhile. It started doing more often until finally it quit, blued the entire rt muffler with raw gas getting back home. I replaced the coils even though the readings were good as I have read that factory coils were problematic. This isn't it. swapped plug wires right to left. Examined connections. I have not stripped the wiring bundle ( I hate to do that) but I checked the resistance of each ground lead from the coil to the connection with the ignition control box located on the top of the frame (large plug in where throttle, gear, etc info combined). I can't see where the hot lead splits off because of the wrapping, but according to wiring diagram it does not split until right before it leaves bundle for the two coils, I am unsure if I can test these with engine switched on for current, whether it might damage the igniter box (assuming the box isn't already the problem). What about that ? Think I should switch on and see if I have power to each coil through the hot wire ? I am out of guesses except the VERY expensive igniter box.

  • Dave Yarborough Jul 04, 2010

    It was the CDI unit. I swapped grounds and checked fire in the plugs. Left cylinder wouldn't fire with rt lead, etc. Thanks

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Hi
With Ignition switch off :-
1st Check for bad connections, broken/crushed wires, continuity & resistance between the cap, HT lead, coil, ignition coil primary wires
2nd Disconnect the CDI unit from its connector & check for the same between the loom side of the connector back to the coil
3rd Check coil is earthed

If all OK suspect the CDI unit but double check everything first( there are some more checks as well), as these are very expensive.

Let me know,so that we could proceed.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Posted on Jul 03, 2010

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  • Triumph Master
  • 22,156 Answers

Dont know if this will help but some bikes shut down on one cylinder if the battery is low ,like my kawaski ,i dont know why ?? my friends virago does the same thing?' ,I would suggest that you look for a owners web site or something on the internet and hopefully another owner has had this problem before and can help more than myself ,usual story iam afraid and that is if i had the bike in front of me i might be able to dertimine whats wrong but without seeing it and getting my greasy hands on it ??

Posted on Jul 03, 2010

  • 1 more comment 
  • Dave Yarborough Jul 03, 2010

    Thanks. Battery is full I checked it (and starts quickly, bright lights etc). As I noted shortly after I purchased the bike it would cut out on the right cylinder, but would eventually skip a few times at highway speed, then go back to full power. I thought it was carburetion (trash) or the spark plug. I checked carb,replaced plug and it didn't do it for awhile. It started doing more often until finally it quit, blued the entire rt muffler with raw gas getting back home. I replaced the coils even though the readings were good as I have read that factory coils were problematic. This isn't it. swapped plug wires right to left. Examined connections. I have not stripped the wiring bundle ( I hate to do that) but I checked the resistance of each ground lead from the coil to the connection with the ignition control box located on the top of the frame (large plug in where throttle, gear, etc info combined). I can't see where the hot lead splits off because of the wrapping, but according to wiring diagram it does not split until right before it leaves bundle for the two coils, I am unsure if I can test these with engine switched on for current, whether it might damage the igniter box (assuming the box isn't already the problem). What about that ? Think I should switch on and see if I have power to each coil through the hot wire ? I am out of guesses except the VERY expensive igniter box.

  • Dave Yarborough Jul 03, 2010

    dont know if this will help but some bikes shut down on one cylinder if the battery is low ,like my kawaski ,i dont know why ?? my friends virago does the same thing?' ,I would suggest that you look for a owners web site or something on the internet and hopefully another owner has had this problem before and can help more than myself ,usual story iam afraid and that is if i had the bike in front of me i might be able to dertimine whats wrong but without seeing it and getting my greasy hands on it ??



    Jul 03, 2010 - Thanks. Battery is full I checked it (and starts quickly, bright lights etc). As I noted shortly after I purchased the bike it would cut out on the right cylinder, but would eventually skip a few times at highway speed, then go back to full power. I thought it was carburetion (trash) or the spark plug. I checked carb,replaced plug and it didn't do it for awhile. It started doing more often until finally it quit, blued the entire rt muffler with raw gas getting back home. I replaced the coils even though the readings were good as I have read that factory coils were problematic. This isn't it. swapped plug wires right to left. Examined connections. I have not stripped the wiring bundle ( I hate to do that) but I checked the resistance of each ground lead from the coil to the connection with the ignition control box located on the top of the frame (large plug in where throttle, gear, etc info combined). I can't see where the hot lead splits off because of the wrapping, but according to wiring diagram it does not split until right before it leaves bundle for the two coils, I am unsure if I can test these with engine switched on for current, whether it might damage the igniter box (assuming the box isn't already the problem). What about that ? Think I should switch on and see if I have power to each coil through the hot wire ? I am out of guesses except the VERY expensive igniter box.


  • Colin Stickland
    Colin Stickland Jul 04, 2010

    yes you do have an expensive problem by the sound of it ,sorry for delay in answering but i have to work ,well if their is no power then the most likely cause is the computer this is reading the TDC of the engine then calculating the firing time for the other cylinder ,the auto advance and ****** is calculated from the rpm of the vehicle.now i cannot be sure without a diagnostic plug in but i would say that this is the most likely cause of the problem ,One last resort is to unplug the big multiplug connection on the bottom of this and try cleaning the connections and a quick spray with wd 40 ,other than that its the dealers

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Hi
With Ignition switch off :-
1st Check for bad connections, broken/crushed wires, continuity & resistance between the cap, HT lead, coil, ignition coil primary wires
2nd Disconnect the CDI unit from its connector & check for the same between the loom side of the connector back to the coil
3rd Check coil is earthed

If all OK suspect the CDI unit but double check everything first( there are some more checks as well), as these are very expensive

Ride safe
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Please rate this solution well if it has helped !!
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