My 1994 xr6004 has good compression and has had a new top end, it runs awesome and kicks over fairly easy when cold and runs/drives great, but as soon as it warms up and you shut it off or it stalls out, its next to impossible to fire back up, i cleaned the carb out (i may have it improperly adjusted i dont know the proper method.) long story short, bike starts awesome cold, runs good but wont start hot

There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting. Below are generic instructions.

• The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
• The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
• The de-compression lever, always used.
• The throttle, used to prime the cylinder, (power valve).

Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm, (Power valve), in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), for six kicks. After six kicks go ahead and twist the throttle again for a second priming. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting. Note that not all carbs have a power valve. When a power valve is not present you should crack the throttle open only 1/8 inch from closed on each kick. Please rate my answer.

your choke adjustment or cold start are not working to bring it to high idle cold start.
mike

65PSI is way to low. It probably won’t run at 88PSI either. Put a small drop of engine oil (20w50 or similar) into the cylinder and do the compression test again. If there is a big improvement in compression it means the piston rings are worn and you will have to do a top-end overhaul. As a very rough guide you need 150PSI for a 4 stroke engine and about 120PSI for a 2 stroke engine.

compression range is 120-160 ok but anything under 120 needs top end,if not you will start to where on those cylinder walls with the ring

There is a proper way to start an engine. Most bikes have four controls to assist in starting.

• The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
• The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
• The de-compression lever, always used.
• The throttle, used to prime the cylinder.

Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), until the bike starts. Go ahead and give it another primer shot after the 5th kick attempt. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting.

Yes, it does have an automatic decompression mechanism. It is a centrifugally operated mechanism and it is EXTREMELY unlikely that is causing your problems.
The two highest probabilities are:
1. Fouled spark plug. Forget what it looks like, put a BRAND NEW plug in. It is the cheapest form of diagnosis you can do. These bikes are terrible about fouling spark plugs and a fouled plug produces the exact symptoms you described.
2. Inspect your valve clearance. Tight valves will also make the bike hard/impossible to start with the kick starter. In some cases, it can be push started, but still won't kick. With tight valves, the bike, although hard starting, will run pretty good, for awhile. Eventually it will burn the valves and quit running though.
If your bike isn't kick starting fairly easily, something is wrong and needs to be addressed. The only other issue is making sure the idle speed is set per the service manual. These bikes have a fairly high idle, some as high as 1700 rpms. If it is set too low, it makes them hard to start too.

Could be low compression due to head gasket leak, worn piston rings. Or bad spark due to dirty plug, wrong gap, plug breaking down, lead or cap breaking down, ignition fault. Choked air filter, fuel filter.
Try these in easiest order I.E. remove air filter and see if it starts easier, do a compression test, cahnge plug, lead cap. Check the fuel filter.
I am sure it's a simple solution.(high milage engines tend to be difficult to start so take this into account)

There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting.

• The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
• The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
• The de-compression lever, always used.
• The throttle, used to prime the cylinder.

Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. Give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kickstart lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from a backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), until the bike starts. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting.

Top rating for this answer? Thanks!

Yes, there is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting.

• The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the knob for choke.
• The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
• The de-compression lever, always used.
• The throttle, used to prime the cylinder.

Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), until the bike starts. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting.

Several things can cause the problem. First, spring for a new spark plug. The stock plug is NGK CR8E. Now the plug is eliminated as a problem. Next, pull the slide out of the throat of the carb. Now remove the jet needle. Put the needle clip on the 4th notch, (this is the stock setting). Use only premium gas. Next, follow the starting instructions below.

There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting.

• The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
• The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
• The de-compression lever, always used.
• The throttle, used to prime the cylinder.

Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. Release the de-compression lever and give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from a backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), until the bike starts. A good battery and clean air filter will also aid in starting.

This will likely tame the beast for you. Please rate this answer. Thanks!