Rear outer berring failed have removed axils cannot get berring out. using slide hammer and heating up outer axil what else is there to try ?

You will need to get the tag off of the differential, Should be on mounting bolt or stamped into the pumpkin, You will have to have that info to find out Ring and pinon size, axle etc.Hope this helps and Good Luck, Randy.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/randall_d932ef6e01588b0f

IF THIS IS FRONT WHEEL DRIVE YOU HAVE A CV SHAFT AXLE AND THESE CAN BE QUITE A JOB. YOU SHOULD HAVE AN INNER AND OUTER CV JOINT IT WILL BE CHEAPER TO REPLACE THE WHOLE SHAFT.
YOU WILL HAVE TO JACK AND SUPPORT THE FRONT OF THE CAR WITH OUT GETTING ANYTHING IN THE WAY OF THE AXLE YOU ARE TRYING TO REPLACE. 1) REMOVE THE WHEEL 2) REMOVE THE NUT THAT HOLDS THE AXLE IN THE SPINDLE. 3) REMOVE THE CALIBERS AND PAD FROM THE ROTOR 4)REMOVE THE ROTOR 5) REMOVE THE TORTION BAR END BUSHINGS AND LOWER BALL JOINT. WITH A SOFT HAMMER DRIVE THE AXLE SHAFT END FROM THE SPINDLE WHILE YOU PULL THE STRUTT AWAY FROM THE CAR . THE AXLE END SHOULD SLIDE OUT OF THE SPINDLE AND THAT END SHOULD FALL TO THE GROUND. WITH A LONG PRY BAR YOU WILL HAVE TO PRY THE OTHER END OUT OF THE TRANS/AXLE HOUSING. TO REPLACE THE AXLE SHAFT JUST REVERSE THESE DIRECTIONS. YOU MAY WANT TO CHECK THE SPINDLE BEARINGS FOR PLAY OF ANY KIND. THERE IS NOTHING WORST THEN HAVING TO DO THIS TWICE. IT'S NOT TO BAD OF A JOB BUT CAN BE TIME CONSUEMING IF YOU HAVE NEVER DONE THIS BEFORE. HOPE THIS HELPS

As your Jeep has four wheel drive, I don't understand what you mean by a "4wheeler axle",
What was the difference between the one you had and the one you installed?
If you installed it and it is working, I don't see how it could cause the one on the opposite side to fail.
Though I'd need a better understanding of what you actually have done, my present answer to your question is no, and likely the other side needed to be replaced as well, but you did not notice.

You forgot to state front or rear, take off the tire remove the grease cap with plyers remove cotter pin remove nut, remove washer, wiggle the hub and outer berring will fall out. The inner berring may be pressed into the back of the hub. If so you will have to knock it out with a hammer. Getting it back in could be difficult. It can also be hammered back in. ( the new berrings must be repacked with grease by you) This is a process whereas you force grease into the berring. The install the hub install the outer berring put on washer tighten nut with plyers then back off 1/8 turn. install pin install cap install tire. after 50 miles of driving lift car and wiggle tire with hands to feel for any play in the berring....because this is your first time!

hi , make sure its not the brake cyl. leaking, if its rear seal leaking remove brake shoes, then remove axle bolts, replace new seal, then check rear end fluid

U MUST EMOVE THE CENTER PIN BETWEEN THE SPIDER GEARS OF THE GEAR CARRIER, THEN PUSH THE AXLE IN AND REMOVE THE "C" CLIP THAT HOLDS IT INSIDE THE GEAR CARRIER

Hello grega1967, your Jeep Wrangler came from the factory with gear oil in the axles and manual transmission, but the transfer case uses transmission fluid. It is a NP231 and your axles are Dana 30 in the front and Dana 35 in the rear. They should have a 4.10 gear ratio due to you having a 2.5 liter 4 cylinder.

I hope this helps,

map6260

you should go to part supplier and replace it soon as possible avoid bumpy situation good luck hope this helped

take the wheel off , unbolt caliper and sling it out of the way with a bungi cord, take off the rotor, then you have too take the pumpkin cover off the axel diff in the front (drain fluid first) easy way to do that take out bottom and side bolts out then leave top 1 or 2 in but finger loose. pry cover off with a sturdy scrapper from side allowing fluid to leak out from bottom of cover. when fluid is done comeing out then take off cover. to take the axel out to replace the seal you have to push the axel inwards to remove the C- CLIP on the end of the axel shaft that slides into the inside of the pinion gear (use a extending magnet) keeps gear oil on your hands and from dropping it into the pumpkin housing. then all you have to do is slide the axel shaft out. then replace the seal .