Replacing back right rear drum brakes on a 2003 chey cavalier. When they finish bleeding it, it pops the cylinder and fluid runs out.

After you remove the tire, the drim should slide off. If it doesn't then try using a rubber mallet and gently tap on the outside edge as you pull on it. Sometimes you also need to tap on the drum in the center part. I have sprayed penetrating lubes like WD-40 or PB Blaster into the seam at the center. You may also have to back off the parking brake cable or even use the adjuster to back off the shoes.

The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.

1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
   2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
   3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
   4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
   5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
   6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
      

WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
   1. Right rear
   2. Left front
   3. Left rear
   4. Right front
2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
   1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
   2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
   3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
   4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system

Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

If they are drum brakes then it is most likely the wheel cylinder. these are not expensive but you will need to replace the rear brake shoes and clean all the parts with brake clean. I recomend replacing the other cylinder while your at it.

sometimes if you leave the bleeder screw open it will gravity bleed the cylinder.Make sure master cyl is full and do one wheel at a time.I have seen this work, I have done it.

OK, that's a common problem if the drum is not installed while bleeding the brakes by pushing the pedal down all the way.

looks like you need a new wheel cylinder, because of this.

unfortunately.

don't worry, gm aftermarket parts are inexpensive. Probably less than $5 for the part.

You will need to dismantle the rear brakes and replace the wheel cylinder. Use plenty of penetrating oil when removing it, and use a MAPP gas torch liberally and a tight-fitting six-pint socket wrench with a jerking motion to loosen the rusty bolts and brake lines before you try to remove them. Be prepared to replace all of the rear brake lines. They will probably not survive. After the wheel cylinder is replaced, you will need to bleed the brakes. It is a good idea to replace both sides and to replace the shoes, drums and brake hardware at this time. Use anti-seize on every non-friction contact point such as self-adjusters, backing plates, hub faces and pivots. Try not to get brake fluid on your skin or the car's paint, as it will dissolve paint and is hard on your hands. Do not let the master cylinder run empty at any point, or you will have to bleed the front brakes as well, and could damage the master cylinder. You are going to need lots of patience and plenty of rags.

Oh yes you can. If you are having trouble with the ole pump and hold method, There is a better way. Gravity bleed has never failed me and it sure makes it easy when you don't need to have help. Here is how its done. Open and top off your brake master cylinder. Leave the cap loose and start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder. Right rear.then left rear, then right frt, then lft frt. open the bleeder and let the brake fluid drip untill the fluid drips steady and without air. You will see the air bubbles popping out if there is air in the system. Tap the brake line with ta wrench to break any clinging bubbles loose. Do that with each wheel in the above order. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder, don't let it run low. keep it as full as possible chkg it often. Do not pump your brakes at any time.Remember to tap the line on the wheel you are workin on. See! One man job. When finished, chk all your bleeders to make sure they at snug and fully closed, then taqke the garden hose and was the brake fluid off the back of each wheel. Brake fluid is water solubleand will rinse right off.. Top master cylinder and cap it before getting any water around it, Even a drop or two splashed into it with ruin the braike fluid. Good luck and take a brake. Always use caution on initial braking.

The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the ABS brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.
Air can be very difficult to remove from an ABS modulator assembly because of all the nooks and crannies inside the unit. The modulator may have eight to 10, or more, ABS/traction control solenoid valves, plus various check valves and dead-end ports. Some ABS modulators have special bleed screws to help you vent the trapped air when bleeding the system. Others do not and require the use of a scan tool to cycle the ABS solenoids while you bleed the system. 1. To bleed the isolation valves in the modulator, there are two bleeder screws. Start with the one toward the engine. Turn the ignition on and apply light pressure on the brake pedal. Open the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to flow until clear. Close the screw and do the same at the second bleeder screw. 2. Depressurize the accumulator by pumping the pedal 40 times with the key off. Wait about two minutes for the brake fluid to de-aerate, then refill the fluid reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. 3. Now you can bleed the boost section. This is done by applying moderate pressure on the brake pedal and turning the ignition on for three seconds, then off. Repeat this a total of 10 times. Make sure the pedal feels firm when you have finished, and give the car a road test to make sure the brakes are working properly.

You will need to bleed all four corners, starting at the right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front. Your bleed procedure always goes from the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, to the closest. By bleeding only the rear brakes, you've gotten air out back there, but not necessarily any air that might have moved farther forward. Bleed your rears again, and then move forward to bleed the fronts, and see if that helps.

you have to change the rear to the front line on your master cause of the proportioning valve is not on the good wheel