Question about 1998 Honda CB 500

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Can't figure rear wheel assembly

Cannot work out where spacers go to correctly refit the rear wheel on my 1998 honda cb500

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See if this helps, its for a cb 750 1998, should be the same.can't figure rear wheel assembly - 772d3cb.gif

Posted on Jun 06, 2010

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You should not have to unbolt the final drive assembly. Loosen the rear axle nut, take out the bolt, knock out the spacer , lift the caliper assembly out of the way and hang it by a wire, grab the wheel, and slide it sideways away from the final drive. The wheel should slide right off the spline of the final drive and roll out the back under the fender. If the wheel wont slide past the final drive let the air out of the tire. Be sure to coat the spline of the final drive with moly60 paste available at your local Honda dealer when reassembling.

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Center stand the bike, loosen the rear axle nut, take out the bolt, knock out the spacer , lift the caliper assembly out of the way and hang it by a wire, grab the wheel, and slide it sideways away from the final drive. The wheel should slide right off the spline of the final drive and roll out the back under the fender. If the wheel wont slide past the final drive let the air out of the tire. Be sure to coat the spline of the final drive with moly60 paste from your local Honda dealer when reassembling

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Hello, I have a 99 evo fatboy, with 3/4" axle. I want to make sure I got all the spacers and washers in the correct order when putting back on. Axle goes in on rotor side, with adjuster on first....


Sounds like you've got it together correctly. There is no washer between the brake caliper bracket and the swingarm. You can put the axle in from either direction. We usually put them in from the left side so that we no longer have to remove a muffler to remove the rear wheel. The nut is now on that side. Just make sure the wheel turns smoothly and the brakes work correctly before taking in out on the road. If you hear a chirping noise when you shift gears, your rear belt is too loose.

Good luck
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Center stand the motorcycle, loosen the rear axle nut, take out the bolt, knock out the spacer , lift the caliper assembly out of the way and hang it by a wire, grab the wheel, and slide it sideways away from the final drive. The wheel should slide right off the spline of the final drive and roll out the back under the fender. If the wheel wont slide past the final drive let the air out of the tire. Be sure to coat the spline of the final drive with moly60 paste from your local Honda dealer when reassembling.

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Center stand the bike,loosen the rear axel nut, take out the bolt, knock out the spacer , lift the caliper assembly out of the way and hang it by a wire, grab the wheel, and slide it sideways away from the final drive. The wheel should slide right off the spline of the final drive and roll out the back under the fender. If the wheel wont slide past the final drive let the air out of the tire. Be sure to coat the spline of the final drive with moly60 paste from your local Honda dealer when reassembling

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HI AM I CORRECT IN SAYING THIS BIKE HAS A DRUM BRAKE, AND A SIMPLE SPINDLE, SPACER AND NUT FITMENT, IN THE OLD DAYS HONDA USED A SPLINED WHEEL ATACHMENT TO THE SHAFT BELL HOUSING, WITH THE BIKE ON A STABLE FOOTING, REMOVE THE NUT, SPINDLE &, SPACERS, THIS SHOULD THEN GIVE ENOUGH SPACE TO REMOVE THE WHEEL FROM THE SHAFT HOUSING, A SLIGHT WOBBLE WHILE PULLING THE WHEEL OF THE DIFF IS NORMALY ENOUGH TO REMOVE THE WHEEL,MAKING SURE NOT TO PULL TO HARD AS TO AFFECT THE STABILITY OF THE MACHINE ON ITS STAND, USE OF A GOOD LUBRICATION IS RECOMENDED ON REASEMBLY OF THE SHAFT SPLINED GEAR, HOPE THIS HELPS

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Rear wheel assembly for flstc 1994 rear wheel is not centring,too far over to the left, drive belt is rubbing on wheel


Unless someone has changed a spacer or something , the rear wheel should be centered with the frame, not necessarily the swingarm. The rear brake caliper bracket acts as the spacer on the right side and there is a spacer on the left side. This spacer on the left side should be just short enough to get into the swingarm without a lot of excess space once installed. You should not be squeezing your swingarm more than 0.125 inch or so.

Now, there are other things that will cause the tire to rub the final drive belt. Too wide tire will do this. The '94 models used the old style wide belts unlike the narrower belt used by the later models. If you install a like is on a later model, it's too wide and will probably rub. The next reason for tire belt interference is the rear tire not being adjusted correctly and it is not under the bike straight. Adjust the rear wheel by measuring the length of the adjuster bolt relative to the axle. These measurements should be the same on both sides of the swingarm. If you can't do that, find something about six feet long that you can use as a straight edge to check the alignment of the rear wheel to the front wheel. Keep in mind that there is an offset designed into the front wheel. Just make sure that the rear wheel is as straight relative to the frame as you can get it.

Even with all this stuff correctly set, the final drive belt will be close to the side of the tire but it should not rub.

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