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I have a 1986 Aspencade that will not charge the (New) battery while running. I have performed the Charging system - "leakage and output test" per the Goldwing manual and have been unable to find a fault. I did replace the connector block under the left side panel (to no avail) as recommended by my local cycle shop. Although the (diode) test passed, I'm now leaning toward a faulty regulator/rectifier, but at $200 I want to be sure...My question is this, I put a meter to the three yellow wires coming from the alternator, the readings at idle were approx 3.40 VAC at each wire and would increase or decrease as RPM was increased or decreased. Is this AC voltage reading enough to rule out a faulty alternator and/or stator?Is there a way to bench test the regulator/rectifier?Thank you in advance,John
Run an ohm test on the stator wires, make sure you get readings through all combinations of any 2 wires. if you don't get an ohms reading between 2 wires that means you have a broken stator winding and the stator needs to be replaced. hook up a volt meter to your battery and test battery voltage at rest (bike off), at idle (bike on and idling should be at least 12.5 - 13 volts), and steady around 3 - 4000 rpms (should be around 13-14.5 volts. if it exceeds 15 volts your regulator is bad and needs to be replaced. if all numbers are about what I said, have your battery tested. If your battery is over 1.5 years old it should be replaced anyway.
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Test the alternator. The battery light is for the charging system. Once the charging system is working with the engine running, the light should go off. If your light stays on with engine running, the alternator may need service or replacement.
To test the charging system, just put a voltmeter on the battery with engine running. The voltmeter should register at least 13.5 volts- alternator is charging. If you only show battery voltage with engine running, like 12.2-12.8 volts, the alternator or charging system is not working. The battery light should be on to signify this.
Locate the three wires (usually yellow) that come from the stator to the regulator/rectifier. They should be on a connector near the battery. Disconnect the wires and check the resistance of the stator leads between each other (3 checks) and from each lead to ground. There should be approximately equal resistance from lead to lead and no continuity to ground. Also check for AC voltage between each lead with the engine running. These readings should be approximately equal and should increase when throttle is applied to about 60-90ACV. If the stator resistance and output check out, your regulator/rectifier is bad. Unfortunately stator failure is common on these models and the engine must be removed for replacement. Another common problem is that the connector itself will corrode/melt. Honda sells a replacement lead kit that you can install, or you can just hardwire the stator to the reg/rect.
1. get the battery tested to rule out a collapsed cell.
2. If the battery is ok, check the wiring harness that runs from the passengers front corner, to the drivers front corner, for a break in the wires. A common spot to find one would be near the passengers side.
You've got to check remove and clean your battery terminals and the connectors.Also check the main ground on the block from the battery negative terminal. Then check the tightness of the large red wire going to the starter from the positive battery terminal. And lastly, make sure the small push on terminal to the starter solenoid is tight. if not remove it and pinch it hard with your thumb and index finger. Push it back into place and see if it will start. If so while it is running check your charging systenm with a voltmeter,it should read between 13- 14.5 volts. If it does not start then jump the battery from another vehicle and then check the charging system. If your charging system is fine and the next morning you cannot get it to turn over you'll need a new battery.
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