Question about Suzuki VL 125 Intruder LC Motorcycles

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The chocke handle is sticking, it is not possible to move it. Where is the other end of the choke wire fixed, it is dificult to find it. Can it be the choke wire itself?

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Hi! It can be the choke wire itself but try this, Lubricate the choke lever for it may be corroded causing it to be stucked. Once cleaned theres a possibility that the lever can move again. Hope this helps and have a good one!

Posted on Jun 01, 2010

  • 2 more comments 
  • sveiwest Jun 01, 2010

    Hi and thank you,

    I will try to lubricate the lever and the wire. I will du it later today, but just one question. Where do I find the other ende of the choke wire? Just to check if the problems is here.

  • dj_relly999
    dj_relly999 Jun 01, 2010

    The other end can be found at the engine. Try to trace the wire from the lever to the engine. Carburator will be the closest location.

  • sveiwest Jun 01, 2010

    If it Is on the left side, I have to remove the air filter to find it. What side is it?

  • dj_relly999
    dj_relly999 Jun 01, 2010

    It is concealed so removing the filter can give you a good access.



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I need to know the chock on/off position of dream yuga. I had to use the chock a few times. And now I am confused on whether it is on/off. There is no indication of on/off position in bike.

I don't know about your type of choke, but try the following.
  • If it is a push/pull button, then normal running position is usually with the button pushed in (choke off)
  • If on your handlebar the normal running position is with the lever pushed forwards (choke off) away from you and is more out of the way whilst riding
  • If a lever that flips back and forth or turns, then that is more difficult to tell. Generally you might feel less resistance when moving it one way or the other, and the easiest way it moves is usually as it is being moved to the off position (choke off).

Mar 15, 2016 | Motorcycles


Using an AM radio and RF chock as a wire locator

Having a technician come out to check on your invisible fence can be expensive and leaving the break unattended can lead to your dog running away. This is a short guide to fixing and finding the break in the fence.

You are going to need a few tools before we begin. You are going to need a RF choke (looks like an unraveled paper clip stuck through a black tube and wrapped with copper wire) and a handheld AM radio.

The first thing that you have to do is make sure that there really is a break in the fence. To do this you can take the wire that connects from the transmitter to the perimeter and disconnect them. Then put either end of a paper clip into the jacks that the wires came out of. If when the paper clip is inserted and the alarm stops then you know that there is a break some where in the wire.

Once you have confirmed that there is a break, take out the paperclip and replace it with the two ends of the RF choke. Take the two wires you had disconnected at the beginning and connect them to either side of the RF choke.

Now its time to tune the radio in, take the radio and turn the dial down on the lower end of the AM frequencies. The signal will sound like a rapid beeping or tapping. It will be louder or more clear when over the wire. When the radio is tuned in its time to head out to the yard.

Following the perimeter of the yard take the radio and aim it down at the ground. Try to keep yourself from getting shovel happy, there will be points where the signal will get weak but when you go over the break the signal will drop off completely. Only when the signal drops off completely is where you need to start digging.

When you do finally find the break, be careful when you dig it up. You don't want to knick or cut the wire. Also keep in mind that the wire is not going to be buried too deep so you don't have to go crazy looking for it.

Once both ends have been exposed take the radio to check the signal on the lines. If they both have a strong signal then this is your only break in the wire. If you find that one side doesn't have a signal this could mean that there is an other break somewhere along the wire. When both lines have a strong signal use a piece of wire to connect the two ends. In the case that there is an other break, follow the end that doesn't have a signal along until you find the other end and then connect the two ends back to the wire with the signal using some wire.

Head back to the transmitter and take the RF choke off, connect the wires back in. If the alarm doesn't star up again then you go the break. Now that its confirmed that the break was fixed, you have to make sure that the fix is weather proof. You can use wire connectors at a hardware store, place them on the wires and bury the wires back up. All should be fixed!

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1 Answer

Suzuki problem


we dont have chokes in N.American . all 100% EFI
so where are you, what country , must we guess that
and what engine, and what fueling system you have>?

chokes ended here in 1989. USA, suzuki.
just for that reason too. smog, (bad chocks)

Sep 07, 2014 | 1999 Suzuki Wagon

1 Answer

Suzuki samairi 1987,starts fine when Cooke go off or when engine worms up it dies will not idol at all.

the chock must be bad.
on all carb cars , since 1964 i remove it and make it a manual choke
then hot starts are easy, hot, its not touched. (instant starts hot)

chokes this old never work right, they are TOO old
the spring in side (bimetal) is NO GOOD. it fails to open properly.
try setting the choke calibration more lean.
if at higher altitude, even leaner.

the book is free. see it here

The choke is a device on most old carbs (varies by country)
that closes a butterfly valve, (google that) and starves the engine of air, thus the word "CHOKE" as in Choking it.
this causes higher venturi vacuum and more fuel flows from the jet nozzles.
if the chock is set too rich the engine floods
if set too lean , you have to pump the gas pedal to keep it alive.
if the bimetal spring is slow, it floods
if the choke is electic the heater needs to work or the choke sticks on.
if the choke is water heated, the water needs to flow there. again
the motor floods and stalls.

rtm. read the chapter on the Choke, the book is free.

Aug 08, 2014 | 1987 Suzuki Samurai

1 Answer

Repair choke cable

Hi, Wozzle63 for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Cable Fix Solder New end on ANY cable
OEM parts for Yamaha

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at

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1 Answer

Auto choke is stuck getting gas into motoroil how do i fix choke

buy a carb rebuild kit (wow old car a near record here....)
or convert auto choke to manual, done every carb car i owned.
i hate auto chokes, all of them , water, stove, or electric, hate.
on hot days, no choke, , no flooding. no washing oil off rings either.
you learn quick just how much chock is best .

finding carb kits are a bit hard , here is uSA.
google for one,
ok rock has it

and the full rebuild ket too.

seems it the electric type.
replace it and set it like the FSM states.
varies by climate and altitude (higher is less chock set)

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1 Answer

What does the symbols mean on the controls

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as for the other three you have a from right to left on the main body full chock the half chock the run prime it 7 times on the primer ball with the full choke on the pull crank cable 3 times then move choke to half choke then pull until it starts if after 10 pulls it doest start out back to full choke and sart again if and when it startes let it rund for about 15 secs on half choke then move to run If after all that and you have done it a few times and it still doesnt start get rid of it as it is a totally rubbish tool I know i had one for 6 m onths used iit 3 times then i bought a stihl.

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1 Answer

Can't pull choke knob up on my riding lawn mower

take the cable off the mower and clean it in a pan with solvent or brake cleaner spray. you can coil it up to fit the pan while soaking. afterwards, let dry --- if you have an air compressor blow it dry to help clean and dry it --- then oil it up with a light oil or wd-40, wipe it off, stretch it out, and work the cable again before you remont it. the cable will stick if it gets too dirty and has no lubrication. may want to buy a new cable but they usually can be cleaned and lubricated.

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