Question about 2002 kawasaki ZZR 1200

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Engine runs rough under 4000 rpm

I have a 2000zx-11d engine runs rough under 4000 rpm runs good wide open throttle will not run smooth at highway speeds acks like a lean condition only muzzy pipe added but when bike was new i have changed plugs and coils

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: rough running kawasaki

you need to let it warm up before beating on it. inline 4s are always cranky when cold. another issue could be dirty carbs and clogged carb jets causeing it to run extreemly lean, rev high and die out. pulling 4 carbs isnt "fun" but you could do it in an afternoon.

Posted on Mar 07, 2009

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SOURCE: wont run...

Any water in the gas? Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Get a fresh set of stock NGK spark plugs. Clean or replace the air filter. You seem to be pretty thorough in what you have done, but since plugs and filter weren't mentioned I had to ask.

Assuming you are getting air, gas and spark, and the timing is correct then it should run. Right? Not necessarily. Can the bike breathe? If pressure cant get out of the tailpipe the bike won't run. Mufflers can sometimes collapse internally. This restricts the flow of burned gasses. causing backpressure. If nothing goes out of the cylinder then nothing goes in.

Try removing the exhaust pipes. Now see if it will run. Get back to me because I would like to know what you find.

Posted on Mar 29, 2009

SOURCE: Spark Plug wires

should be 1342 try it!

Good luck .

Knight (yamaha XJ750 R 1981)

Posted on Apr 17, 2009

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: my er5 runs rough when i ease off on throttle and

Hi there Dave
I would check Carby setting. Like float levels, Mixture screw setting. These can make the bike run
roughily. Also the spark plugs settings, eg not right gap or heat range or ever reach. One other thing
is vacuum leak eg from a vacuum hose ( this usely makes the bike run rough all the time) Simple way
to test this is use a can of WD 40 & spray over the vacuum hoses & if it stops the problem for a short
time you need to replace the hose or fix the leak. I hope this helps your problem, if not please put up
some more info on what you have done to help you There is many little things that can course is
problem.
Regrades Lighten

Posted on Apr 26, 2009

  • 232 Answers

SOURCE: My motorcycle has a miss.

Richard ,
check that your carbies are synchronised .
i would make sure also that you dont have a faulty HTand HT lead to the saprk plug which may cause the wet plug .
check all electrical first prior to thinking of a valve problem .
try to swap the HT and see if the senario happens on another cylinder . if it does , you know than your HT will be faulty .
try that and see how you go .

Posted on Sep 27, 2009

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I get it started it runs as long as you have it wide open but you let of the gas it dies


This might require adjustment of the hi speed carb screw, the lo speed, and the idling screw as well.
The engine needs to be good and warm, you need to be certain you have a fresh fuel mixture in the tank, and you should check the air filter because it too affects the way the saw will run at low speed and idle.

I would start with the hi speed adjustment screw since wi does start. Fire it up and run it a bit to make sure you have it warmed up.

You may need someone else to help you hold the saw while you make these adjustments. With the throttle wide open, turn the hi speed screw slowly, in increments of 1/4 turn, to the left. It may be just a bit off. The objective here is to turn one way until it sputters or runs a little rough. Then turn it the other way until the engine smooths out. Continue to turn in the same direction until it again runs rough. Then turn back about halfway between those two points.

It should run well at wide open throttle. Place your screwdriver in the low speed adjustment screw and turn to the left, in small 1/4 increments like you did before. The objective here is to adjust to the point where the saw will throttle up quickly and smoothly, and more and more from an idling position, or as close as you can get.

If you find you don't get that, and the ramp up is choppy and unsmooth, adjust in the other direction. Eventually you should get to a point where you have quick response to your throttle. You should get to a point where it runs without being wide open.

If it fires up easily and throttles up smoothly but won't idle, the you need to adjust the idling screw. Adjust it until the chain begins to move on the bar when you let the throttle go. Once you get to the point where it idles with the chain moving, back off the adjustment until the chain just stops moving.

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Finally, after all this work, invest in a new spark plug, even if the one in it isn't that old.

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