Im having clutch problems with my 1988 rm80. it just happened with my dt250 aswell. theres no tension in the cable at all, its not frayed or snapped. it starts in nuetral then after warming it up i drop it in 1st and it obviously dies. i dont know what to do. i inspected the plates and they were fine.
also, the 80 was previously leaking motor oil out of the top end im not sure what its called but i think the air valve. i have no idea where to go from here for both bikes any help is greatly appreciated!
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First, make sure the clutch is adjusted correctly..This video is a basic tutorial.. use it for a guide BUT DO the steps as I TELL YOU..
1. Loose the cable adjuster at the handle bar.. run the adjuster in - (give it as much slack as you can)
2. The clutch actuator lever on the engine case should be able to move about 8mm (.325") before it starts to disengage (gets hard to move)..
3. Adjust the cable at the bottom adjustment to take up any slack at this point.. ..you MIGHT/should be able to feel some (NOT FULL TENSION) clutch disengagement in the handle bar (clutch) lever at this point.. IF YOU CAN'T - tighten the cable at the bottom adjustment ONE round at a time until you can feel (a small amount) tension and have at least/about 12mm (.48") max. of play in the lever (BETWEEN THE LEVER AND THE MOUNT when YOU START TO FEEL TENSION... - NOW - in the clutch lever (handle bar).. when you can feel tension in the lever... >> you should start adjusting the lever to have (at least) approximately 1/8" - (3mm) of play (gap) between the lever and mount.. when you have this set correctly, the clutch adjustment question is eliminated. If the adjustment has not helped and you had to do A LOT of adjusting. you need to replace the clutch cable.. and do this adjustment process again. NOW adjustment is NOT part of your problem. If this fixes your problem GREAT!!
.. If not.. now.. we have to move internally..The next issue will be grooves worn into the arms of the clutch basket be the fiber clutch plate ears..(see picture) (the ones that keep the plates stationary when you shift to help disengage the clutch). Also check the actuator arm (see picture below) for wear..
Ok.. if you have gotten this far and everything seems good, reinstall AFTER YOU HAVE METICULOUSLY CLEANED THE BASKET!! The clutch should be working now.
Congrats!! If you need professional port work contact me.. Suzuki RM80 250 89 95
This is something that will have to be looked into.. Sounds like the clutch may not be working.. it won't engage/disengage..(the clutch plates are stuck together - a common thing when older bikes sit for a while!!).. this will require the right side cover to be removed, the clutch cover plate removed, the clutch plates(fiber and metal) to be removed, then cleaned, oiled and everything re-installed in reverse order..with a new side cover gasket..
You MIGHT be able to put the bike in gear.. then try to push it (engine not running) with the clutch lever pulled in and get the clutch plates to break loose (seen this work a couple times)..
You SHOULD be able to push the bike(engine not running) in gear with the clutch lever pulled in!!!
It can't both not engage and not disengage?
If you can't put it in gear even with the engine shut off than there is something wrong with the transmission internally.
Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you for using FixYa.com!
The clutch assy. is worn out. When a clutch is new the springs on the pressure plate sit flat. When you push on the clutch the springs don't have to move far to disengage, making it easy to press on the clutch pedal. As the clutch wears the fingers of the clutch spring move out, clutch pedal effort and travel increases to the point that the clutch will not disengage anymore. Along the life of the clutch the cable can be adjusted to minimize this. You have reached the end of the adjustment, sorry for the bad news but the clutch needs to be replaced.