Question about 1988 Suzuki Rg 250

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1988 rm80 clutch wont disengage?(or engage..idk much. sorry)

Im having clutch problems with my 1988 rm80. it just happened with my dt250 aswell. theres no tension in the cable at all, its not frayed or snapped. it starts in nuetral then after warming it up i drop it in 1st and it obviously dies. i dont know what to do. i inspected the plates and they were fine.

also, the 80 was previously leaking motor oil out of the top end im not sure what its called but i think the air valve. i have no idea where to go from here for both bikes any help is greatly appreciated!

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  • billdozer94 Jun 01, 2010

    i checked and its not the cable or lever. no teeth on the gears are stripped either

  • billdozer94 Jun 05, 2010

    thanks for trying but i found out it sourced from the water pump

  • billdozer94 Jun 06, 2010

    thanks for trying but i found out it sourced from the water pump -sorry wrong box hah..

  • billdozer94 Jun 10, 2010

    no, the water pump thing was a mistake that was for a different problem. resolved now

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  • Suzuki Master
  • 8,404 Answers

Your clutch cable/lever has become detatched at some point internal or external.

Posted on May 31, 2010

  • A Miller Jun 05, 2010

    I dont understand ... are you saying your clutch is operated by your water pump?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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2 Answers

Suzuki RM80 clutch will not disengage.


Hey Anon,
First, make sure the clutch is adjusted correctly..This video is a basic tutorial.. use it for a guide BUT DO the steps as I TELL YOU..
1. Loose the cable adjuster at the handle bar.. run the adjuster in - (give it as much slack as you can)
2. The clutch actuator lever on the engine case should be able to move about 8mm (.325") before it starts to disengage (gets hard to move)..
3. Adjust the cable at the bottom adjustment to take up any slack at this point.. ..you MIGHT/should be able to feel some (NOT FULL TENSION) clutch disengagement in the handle bar (clutch) lever at this point.. IF YOU CAN'T - tighten the cable at the bottom adjustment ONE round at a time until you can feel (a small amount) tension and have at least/about 12mm (.48") max. of play in the lever (BETWEEN THE LEVER AND THE MOUNT when YOU START TO FEEL TENSION... - NOW - in the clutch lever (handle bar).. when you can feel tension in the lever... >> you should start adjusting the lever to have (at least) approximately 1/8" - (3mm) of play (gap) between the lever and mount.. when you have this set correctly, the clutch adjustment question is eliminated. If the adjustment has not helped and you had to do A LOT of adjusting. you need to replace the clutch cable.. and do this adjustment process again. NOW adjustment is NOT part of your problem. If this fixes your problem GREAT!!
.. If not.. now.. we have to move internally..The next issue will be grooves worn into the arms of the clutch basket be the fiber clutch plate ears..(see picture) (the ones that keep the plates stationary when you shift to help disengage the clutch). Also check the actuator arm (see picture below) for wear..



. How to Adjust Clutch
clutch adj-1yabyasfolpfscp5rjzzy1he-2-0.jpg

clutchbasket1-1yabyasfolpfscp5rjzzy1he-2-2.jpg clutchparts-1yabyasfolpfscp5rjzzy1he-2-5.jpg
Ok.. if you have gotten this far and everything seems good, reinstall AFTER YOU HAVE METICULOUSLY CLEANED THE BASKET!! The clutch should be working now.
Congrats!! If you need professional port work contact me..
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