Running rich, poor, slow idle, cuts out easily at low rpm. will die slowing with the clutch disengaged.
Was running fine before I washed it. I probably got some water in tank due to clogged drain. But I've drained the tank, added a gallon, ran it dry, filled tank and still have the problem. The spark plugs are black, have cleaned them up, checked the gap, still hasn't fixed the problem.
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Re: running rich, poor idle, cuts out easily at low
It is not from water in the gas, something else is causing the problem, but I don't know what, yet. Does your bike have the new CAN wiring? Little thin wires running all over the place or the old style fat wires? If it is new style, you shouldn't have a problem with it getting wet, but the old style had 2 junction boxes up front behind the headlight, that doesn't like rain. It could have been enough to make it run lousy. Check it out and clean it if you have to. The next thing to check is the coils, the only other thing that can short out. Your bike is basically waterproof, so the washing might just be coincidence. check all the wires on the bike and under the seat, just to make sure nothing wiggled loose. Did any lights on the dash come on? Hope this helps. 2002 S4,,,99 750 monster
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Screw in the HIGH and LOW needle valves. Then turn each one out 1 full turn, That should be a good starting point.
After engine is running Run engine at Full throttle. Loosen HIGH screw until the engines RPM slows a bit. When that happens Turn screw back in until it revs high and then just starts to slow again. You do not want the engine to run at it's highest RPM or it's not getting enough Lubrication It need to run Rich, that's why you screw the screw in a bit after the engine has reached it's highest RPM. Let it idle down . Then Accelerate hard, if it hesitates, loosen or tighten the LOW until it accelerates quickly with no hesitation.
Most Chain Saw Engines Have Three Carburetor Adjusting Screws:
1. Idle Speed/Throttle Stop - This is the adjustment that controls how much the throttle valve (butterfly) stays open when the throttle trigger is released. If this adjustment is set too low, the engine will die when the throttle trigger is released. The throttle valve (butterfly) simply cuts off the supply of combustible air/fuel and the engine stops. If this adjustment is set too high, the high idle speed will cause the centrifugal clutch to engage and the chain will run. This is a dangerous condition and should never be allowed.
2. Low Speed Fuel Adjustment (marked L on carb, this is the low speed jet)- This is the adjustment that controls the proportion of fuel in the combustible air/fuel mixture at idle speed. An adjustment that is set too rich will cause the engine to load up and die at idle speed. A mixture that is too lean will starve the engine and cause it to race or surge. An extremely lean adjustment will cause the engine to die, too.
3. High Speed Fuel Adjustment (marked H on carb, this is the high speed jet) - This is the adjustment that controls the proportion of fuel in the combustible air/fuel mixture at cutting speed. It would not be accurate to say that this is the most important setting, because all of these adjustments need to be accurate for a saw to perform its best, but this is the adjustment that determines how the saw runs in the cut. An adjustment that is set too rich will not allow the saw to reach the RPM level necessary to build maximum power. Throttle response may also be sluggish and the engine would smoke and perform poorly. A mixture that is too lean will allow the engine to reach an RPM level where bearing failure and cylinder seizure are likely. It will also lack power in the cut and tend to run very hot.
The preceding information briefly explains rich and lean running conditions. It also identifies the three adjustment screws and their function. It should be noted that some chain saws lack the high speed adjustment needle. These saws have what is called a "fixed jet" which is set from the factory. "Fixed jet" carburetors are used to prohibit the saw operator from setting the adjustment too lean and damaging the saw. Unfortunately, they also often prohibit the saw from achieving maximum performance.
I had an experience with a 1984 T-Bird with a 302. The 1986 may have the same system. With that car there was a temperature sensor that affected the idle speed once the car was close to warming up.
With even later models there is a "cold start sequence" which is an electronic way of replacing the ancient choke. The "cold" feature set the fuel mix and the RPM and made starts easier. Now you did not say if the starting problem was when hot or cold or both.
The poor performance when slowing down can be related to the idle rpm being set too low once the thermal switch cuts out. What happens is someone tunes the engine for a rpm that may be correct for the car, but the thermal switch has not dropped the rpm yet. Then when the car really heats up, the idle drops even lower and when you take off your foot from the throttle, the throttle closes too much and the engine cuts out when you are slowing.
Put in a new thermostat. The idle settings can not be set until the thermal switches activate to a run position. Also you may have some vacuum lines crossed which are making the cold and hot cycles reverse. There should be a label with vacuum line routing shown stuck on a part that holds the radiator.
It could be any number of things. The MAP sensor is bad, a severe vacuum leak, the fuel filter is plugged, it needs a tune-up like new plugs & wires etc., the fuel pump is weak or leaking if its a manual one. If the car runs rough at idle have a vacuum test done also, while the car is running at night, open the hood and see if the plug wires are arcing as you will see what looks like small lightning sparks around the wires. The worst case scenario is the piston rings are shot causing poor compression. A repair manual is usually available at the local auto parts store, or shopping center like Wal-Mart and Meijer. I wish you the best of luck.
Do the following:
1. Clean the throttle body from inside.
2. Adjust the spark plugs gap to 1.00 mm.
3. Check fuel pump pressure. (44 Psi - 49 psi)
4. Remove the negative battery terminal for 5 minutes.
5. Connect the battery terminal.
6. Check the engine oil level and coolant level.
NOTE: Before starting the engine shut off all lights and loads for example room light, blower, radio, parking light etc.
7. Start the engine and hold the throttle at 3000 rpm till radiator fan comes on.
8. After the fan comes on release the throttle pedal and let it idle for 10 minutes.
Check your vacuum lines, make sure there is no leaks, and go from there, then all you electrical connection in the engine compartment.
I have a 1996 Jetta Trek Edition, the hoses, and wire harness, are so brittle, any movement can cause hoses and wire insulation to crack.