Question about 1990 Suzuki GSX 600 F (Katana)

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Revving at 5000 rpm because carbs not set up need help with screw settings please

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Try turning the idle screw assembly down it turns all 4 carbs at once.thumb screw attached to rubber hose just below fuel tank in the side of the cowl,also make sure you have free play in the cables at the throttle assembly

Posted on May 28, 2010

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Set idling via screws


Most older cars had 2 adjustments , a air screw for enrichment and throttle screw for engine idle speed, later models did away with the enrichment screw, to adjust set idle screw to 600 rpm, adjust air mixture screw to fastest rpm , reset idle screw to preferred idle speed.

Oct 03, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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How to adjust carb settings


Hi Charlie.<br />Operations to be performed depends on how much tuning is needed.<br />Carb setting regulates the ratio between air and fuel in the mixture aspired into the cylinders.Optimal air/fuel ratio is usually around 14(air) to 1(fuel). I illustrated the complete job with cleanup and jet replacement and adjustment. In some situation you do not need to perform complete tuning, which involves taking apart the carburetor. In that case perform basic regulation setup using the two adjustment screws at one side of the carb. Adjustment simple procedure starts from part 2/Adjustment. A good approach is first doing adjustment using idle and thickener screws. Then do the whole tune up if the simple adjustment does not work.<br />The complete tuning is based on carburettor cleanup, regulation of main jet and idle jet and needle setup.<br /><br />Part 1 : Complete tuning and cleanup:<br />1. Take apart the carburettor,<br />2. Undo the float chamber(6 in diag) held by screws (26 in diag).<br />3. Clean bowl with with carb cleaner (put a lot of it in the bow, wait a bit and dispose it-finish the job with a cloth if needed) . Clean floats (nr.4) and other parts using carb cleaner and cloth.<br />4. Use a flat screwdriver to remove the main jet screw (placed in the chamber, held by big golden screw, goes between the floats). Spray the main jet. You must be able to see through it.<br />5. Use the carb cleaner to clean the accelerating pump and all the other parts inside the part. Needle and small parts must be cleaned. Clean the idle jet, which is the smaller golden screws. If you have a compressor blow into the jets (you can blow them even without compressor, but follow H&S).<br />6. If possible replace main and idle jets. Sometimes you may like to replace the jet with a bigger one to get a richer mixture.<br />7. Adjust the needle if needed. A lower needle settings means a richer mixture.<br />8. Remove idle adjustment screw (7) and main adjustment screw(31), clean them screw them back in without tightening and perform part 2. Leave the screws about one and half turn from all way in.<br /><br />Part 2: Tuning and minor cleanup - Here you mainly operate on idle and air (thickener) adjustment screws (8 and 12 in diag)- Start from here, if this does not work, do part one:<br /><br />1) If the engine runs start from idle adjustment: screw or unscrew the idle regulator to adjust the idle speed, the screw is placed to one side of the carburetor and has a spring (part 12).<br />Keep idle least slightly higher than the minimum needed. Example, if the engine stays on slightly below 1000 rpm, set idle to a bit higher with engine revving above 1000 rpm.<br /><br />2) The thickener, placed near that of the minimum screw regulates the air flow. Tighten the screw and unscrew 2 turns from all the way in. Do regulation from this position. <br /><br />Here carburetor diagram and part list. The diagram is taken from service manual. The manual for Lifan 150 (does not include carb setting) has been uploaded here:<br /><br />http://www.mediafire.com/?o3r8x2ujrdbfb6o

on Oct 29, 2011 | 2008 Lifan Delta 250 V Twin

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Arctic cat snowmobile problems


yes but I would also suspect the carbs we not cleaned fully. main jets and emulsion tubes as well as the idle air circuit... these all are important for proper operation. you will need to pull the idle mixture screws out as well.... if they are plugged from the factory you need to drill into them and use an easy out to remove them

Dec 29, 2013 | ATVs

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Need to know how to set carb with the two screws. Cutter will sometimes start but cuts out when revved


The 2 screws should be marked by an "H" and an "L" stamped in the carb.

if it cuts out on high, or fast, open the "H" screw 1/4 turn at a time while the engine is running, this should fix it.

Sep 20, 2011 | Garden

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Can you please tell me the carburetta settings on a Husqvarna 242 xp please.


Basic carb settings are 1 1/4 turns out on each screw, fine tuning will need to be do from there, idle speed should be 3000/3200 rpm, max speed should be 15500rpm.

Feb 24, 2011 | Husqvarna Garden

2 Answers

My grang cherokee2002 us spec, while driving trnz changes fine but when cick down or full excelrate and RPM reaches 4.5 or 5 engine is loosing power and getting noisy and RPM not going more, while gear on...


You are hitting the rev limiter top range, which cuts off your ignition.

I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee and the problem drives me crazy, but it is the way the car is designed- as soon as you hit the rev limit, it shuts down ignition and your jeep will "buck" - a real pain when you are trying to accelerate into traffic!

You have the 4.0L straight six engine, yes?

If so, please take my advice and learn to live with the minor annoyance of the rev limiter- that engine is IMHO the best Chrysler ever made (nearly "bulletproof"!) and it was so reliable you cannot even get it in a jeep now! For decades, that engine was used in welders, tractors, generators...and yes, jeeps... and it is a favorite among mechanics for its durability!

Feb 01, 2011 | 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Need adjustments for 88 model carter 2 barrel carburator. fits 4.2 jeep


To set carb adjustment, first set timing correctly, then put both a vacuum gauge and tach on the engine. adjust one idle screw to highest vacuum reading and highest tach reading, then do the other one. go back to the first and re-adjust again, then the other. I find that if you have a mechanical screw or a solenoid that holds idle speed on the linkage, turn them back so that engine is idling at the lowest possible rpm without stalling before making adjustments, then when finished, bring idle rpm up to recommended rpm using those. On an older carb, usually the idle screw covers have already been removed. If not, you need to remove them before you begin, usually best done with carb on a bench.

Oct 06, 2009 | 1988 Jeep Wrangler

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How to fix a fluctuating idle of a motorcycle? I ready set the timing and adjust the valve but the idle is still fluctuating.


hi there, have you cleaned the carb lately? i have a honda anf 125, a tad bigger that a 100. anyways, usually a mis-tuned or dirty carb makes the idle of our bike go crazy. If your a do-it-yourselfer, dismantling the carb and cleaning the jets, air ports, and choke lines would be best. Not to mention replacing the fuel filter if you have one in series with the fuel line. If you have cleaned the carb and installed it back to the bike, tuning is next. don't worry if you don't know the right position of the air-fuel screw w/c is next to the idle screw. Turn the air-fuel screw clockwise until it stops. Remember the position of the screw. Turn the idle screw clockwise a few turns until you see the throttle piston moves upward a bit. Then, start the bike. Turn the idle screw until the bike is running without stalling(higher than idle rpm. just like the bike is cruising about 40kph) . Now its time for the tuning. Turn the air-fuel screw counter-clockwise count your turns while listening to the sound of the engine. You will will hear the engine runs smoother and the the rpm starts getting higher also. Stop when you do not hear anymore significant change. Then turn the air-fuel screw clockwise a little about 1/8 turn then stop. Slowly turn the idle screw counter clockwise until you reach 1200 or 1400 rpm (well thats the standard value). Now, try revving the engine, if the engine looses power at the high rpm, turn the air-fuel screw 1/8 clockwise more. Do this step until the pooot-pooting stops. Try the bike and feel the power. If it feels the bike is back in shape. try using the bike for a few weeks. After a week, remove the spark plug and look at the tip. If the tip of your spark plug is kinda grayish or slightly redish(depends on the type of petrol you're using). You're setting is good to go. If the tip color is dark gray to black, the setting is to rich. turn the air-fuel screw counterclockwise about 1/8 turn, then test again. if no color change occurs well the engine should be checked and that's another story.

Hope this helps. More power!

Sep 29, 2009 | 2005 Honda NF 100 Wave

1 Answer

It starts revs then cuts out


Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ). Remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the two screws on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Be sure the bolts are tight. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. Set the idle speed with the idle screw. This process should get you back on the road.


Please rate this solution. Thanks!

Apr 07, 2009 | 2004 Skyteam ST 125 SM

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